!!..DIY Installers..!!

HAVE A SCAN/CPR 55 PANEL 9751, WIRING 3 WIRED HONEYWELL PIR's, WITH 6 WIRES, INTO THIS AND STUCK! 2 WIRES FOR THE GLOBAL TAMPER 2 WIRES TO THE 12V/0V PWR 2 WIRES LEFT. PANEL HAS - ZONE 1 INPUT, THEN MIDDLE INPUT, THEN ZONE 2 INPUT, THEN MIDDLE INPUT THEN ZONE 3 INPUT THEN MIDDLE INPUT THEN ZONE 4................. I HAVE 2 WIRES LEFT, ONE FOR THE ZONE, WHERE DO YOU PUT THE 2ND WIRE ? DOES IT GO IN THE MIDDLE, ALONG WITH THE WIRE FOR THE MIDDLE ZONE FOR THE SECOND PIR ? thx

Hello, I have a CQR Cequra which is about 10 years old. 2 weeks ago after having heavy rain the panel came up with a tamper fault. So I thought better check the tamper switch (spray it with switch cleaner) and check the pcb over in the bellbox. After opening the bellbox up, I saw that the big cap at the top left appears to have vented. (At a guess this cap belongs to the strobe circuit). Could it be possible that the bad cap could have caused say a momentarily loss of the tamper return? Looking at the picture again more closely there’s 4 small caps at an angle, which could indicate they have blown there plugs out. Time for a new bellbox? Thankyou djrock

Hello! I bought a soundbomb but I'm looking for an extra internal siren. (wow, that soundbomb is loud!) Anyway - I'm looking around some sites and I'm not too sure what to go for. I like the look of the Gardtec Intergard becuase it's SAB/SCB selectable, tamper front and rear. Any suggestions on a particular sounder which someone will use if they had their way? Also, I bought a 8 way tampered connection block for the sound bomb - as the soundbomb only came with the -0v +12v connections (for obvious reasons - is this how others connected theirs up? Thanks! Alex

Hi, Im planning to install an ADE Accenta 8 in my new house (feel free to tell me if this is a good or bad unit ?). I have 8 PIR's and will obviously need to wire them into the central unit. Does anybody know if there are enough terminal blocks inside the central unit to wire them up. The 8 PIR tamper ciruits will need to be in series so I will need some spare connection blocks inside the unit to wire this up (something like 7 blocks I guess), same is true for the + and - for each PIR (in parallel of course but can I get 8 wires into one little terminal block ?). Whats the usual way to wire this up, to have some terminal blocks sitting inside the central unit somehow ?…

Hi, Can anyone recomend an alarm that can be connected to a couple of hardwired sensors and most importantly has a remote key fob for turning it on and off. Most of the DIY alarms that I've seen only seem to support wireless sensors, or don't have a remote - I'm struggling to find anything that has both. This is only for the garage so don't want to spend a lot of money on it, but equally I want something that will be relaible. I'm currently considering the LS800S from Maplin as this is the only alarm I've been able to find that meets all of the above criteria. http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?Module...RM&doy=29m8 - Phil

Hi I have recently moved into a house which has a C&K Securitech Control Panel. I had a quick search of the web and found a user manual that seems to call it a Securit 700L ( www.expert-security.com/manuals/700l.pdf ). Anyway today we had the backdoor replaced and the company that fitted the door just ripped out the door contact that was in the previous door frame and left the bare alarm cable just sticking out of the doorframe (obviously on the inside of the house)...in fairness it was a timber door with a recess contact and the replacement was PVC so i can't really blame them for not refitting it, but they could have at least left the bits. Anyway the cable seems…

I'm a little puzzled about the use of Texecom proximity tags. So, you buy them in a pack of 5, and I assume they come preprogrammed. So, do I use a remote keypad that can read their code, and then program that code into the panel for user access? The manual really does not cover this at all. Thanks.

The only thing I'm now struggling with is the size of the transformer and how to hide it. Forgive my ignorance but can the Powermax transformer be substituted for something smaller or is there such a thing as a transformer that goes directly into the consumer unit (obviously I would have an electrician do any electrical work - not touching that myself). Many thanks,

Hi, I've got an RFX08 connected to my 9751. I've got four RF PIRs, two are in outbuildings and two in the house, one of which is in the room (Zone 12) directly below the loft where the RFX expander lives, 2 meters if it was a direct line. I'm testing the reliability of the PIRs that are in the outbuilding so I set the alarm to Part C, which is only those two PIRs. After about an hour a constant "Beep" every second sounds from the keypad, and upon resetting it says "Super Z12". I know this means that the RFX failed to receive a signal from the detector from Zone 12, but this is the closest PIR of them all. It's get fresh lithium batteries in them and they are not out of d…

Hi, All of my existing cabling under the floorboards is unscreened, and now that I am moving and re-wiring the panel, I've got the opportunity of replacing cables for the bell, radio expander, keypad and internal sounder that are above floorboards. Should I consider using screened cabling whilst I have the chance, or would unscreened be ok? It's a 3 bed house, crossing 240v mains here and there, but not running parallel for more than two meters. I also have an ACT AC inducer fitted to the panel if this helps. Thanks

Hi Guys, I'm about to prewire for a new alarm and I'm after opinions on the best location for the panel. The choices are: - 1. In the pantry, under the stairs. This has easy access to the consumer unit but it located off the Utility room which also has the back door to the house. The Utility will have a PIR and will not be an entry/exit zone but is that still a bit of a risk? 2. In the loft. Longer wire runs needed and not easy to get to. Is it bad practice to install in the loft though given difficult access for servicing/maintenance etc? Any views/experience greatly appreciated. , Carl

Dear all - hope someone can help with a couple of points. I have tried searching for an answer but not found much yet. I'm just about to finish installing a Powermax+ system. Everything has gone well so far but... 1. all I have left to do for now is fit the door contact to the front door. Problem is the door is a metal door (wooden frame with painted metal (aluminium I think)). Will the fact that the door is metal affect the use of the contact? Also, I'm a bit nervous about drilling into the door but I really don't want to use tape (I've seen no nails strips suggested somewhere). 2. I was thinking of adding shock sensors to the kitchen patio door and window. The kitchen…

Hi all, I've got the equipment on a workbench prior to installation. Currently I have the 9930 kp, 1 wired PIR and an Elmdene bell wired up to a 9750 panel. On battery kick-start (no mains), it starts up ok albeit reports there is no mains. Now I have connected the 9955 RFX expander and even if the tamper is not open, the KP keeps reporting that there is a tamper on the RFX ("Exp 01 Tamper") upon kick-start and the KP sounder goes off. Is there anything that I am doing wrong? By the way, I can't seem to set the alarm on any level as it keeps saying Mains Fail. Can you not set the alarm on battery only? Thanks

Im going to be replacing my existing alarm panel (accenta mercury) with a galaxy 16+ (hopefully a big improvement?) mainly because the battery charging circuit on the accenta is shot, any battery put in starts 'bubbling' like crazy shortly after being connected. The batteries all charge fine in the galaxy, and in some 12v psu boxes I use also. Its also getting bad corrosion on the battery leads, so I run it without a battery - leading to the bells going off in a powercut. So far I have managed to get the alarm wired up on the bench (just using eol resistors on all zones) with one keypad, and one (sab) internal sounder. Reprogrammed the banner text, and the sounder sets …

I am using a Pyronix KX15DT PIR. When it detects motion it lights up a narrow strip of 'glass' on the front. (I know this feature can be disabled). But the colour of the light changes! Sometimes it's green, sometimes it's red/orange and mostly it's blue. I can't figure out the significance of the colours. The leaflet with the unit makes no mention of it. What is going on? What do they indicate? Ken