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  1. Yesterday
  2. Under the second plant pot on the right WFM
  3. whats a ferrari california & a bentley bentayga worth ? Is wise to have the keys on the hook next to the entrance door...
  4. Why are we replying to old posts? the op is long gone
  5. Depends what you mean as a "closed system". Remote monitoring to an ARC is more secure than a stand alone bells only system. Either way this topic is more about the distribution of firmware, I pretty much covered my opinion in the quote.
  6. Down power the panel you'll get the bell ringing outside, that'll help find an intermittent beep...
  7. You can't boost a signal that's inside a faraday cage...
  8. only safe system is a closed system... plus, the smarter technology is, the more likely it'll mess up...
  9. from what a remember, scanny 9800 doesn't have an onboard buzzer..... i get this all the time... best thing is to shut all doors in house, walk around to see where noise loudest...due to frequency of beeps, it can throw its location around a bit... could be something in cupboard with scanny panel...but if you downpower the panel and leave it a while, and you still get chirrping, it definately is not the panel..
  10. a thief can use a booster, to boost signal for keys, where ever they are in the house..
  11. Ooooo not had good experiances with visonic stuff personally... problem with non-sub app is a possible lack of security... security features on an app costs money- what with secure servers etc.. no manafacturer will give that away for free..
  12. install pyronix enforcer in a cupboard, plug it in using a 3 pin plug. fit the wireless sab outside, wherever is easiest, remember that you will need to get back up to the bell every year or two(dependant on single/dual frequency) to replace battery. add wireless arming stations and detection devices to suit.. current enforcers have wifi built in, so you can access cloud via home wifi and pyronix cloud app. (recomend a UPS for the wifi router in ccase of power cut..). i personally prefer a pyronix 46 and wireless zem setup...
  13. can be a dodgy transformer or high resistance short...you'd need to check the voltage across 12v/0v aux.. try disconnecting all the 12v/0v terminals and checking 12v/0v aux voltages again, if it goes back to the normal 13.5-ishV, then its likely something wired in causing the issue. add a pair of 12v/0v at a time to see if values change..
  14. You sure your not part setting ? Or hallway sensor trigger before you open door
  15. Last week
  16. I have been doing some electrical work for an elderly lady around the corner. She has the above alarm which was fitted some18 months ago and she has never used it as the company who fitted it didn't explain things and have vanished. She asked me to have a look for her and explain how it works. It looks all fine and installed very well. I proceeded to explain to her how to use it and armed the system using a prox tab. It armed fine and we left through the Exit / Entry route. But when we opened the front door, the alarm went straight into alarm with no Entry time. I have had a look through menus, been in to engineers settings to confirm that zone was an entry exit, but didn't want to alter any settings. I know one of you on here will know this instantly, if I did it every day then I would have more knowledge, but I don't even fit alarms. Thanks in anticipation Dave
  17. Most will ignore both your bells ringing and do you over anyway if they really wanted to get in Scb was made for a reason , keep meter in tool box ...... Internal sounder and coms is where you need more effort How many pirs you got? That your worried about a walk test ?
  18. Well to much current for 7Ah. At least 12hours standby with one full activation. Some systems depending on the grade and signalling would be 24 hours plus one activation. Aux/Fault is Aux/Fault and Bell tamper is Bell tamper from the return, log will show this. Outputs are all programmable in software the bigger panels are already setup for LED control OOTB, wouldn't expect LED Control not being OOTB is an issue on domestic market the 24 is aimed at. I have already said what outputs for LED's should be programmed as. Don't use pull up resistors on the outputs.
  19. Hi, How long does the battery have to support the system in an alarm state? The Texecom calculator suggests that the total alarm load is 1.35A (and is happy with it; the battery fuse is 1.6A), at that current a 7Ah (at C20) battery will have a 5Ah-6Ah capacity so should be able to support the sounders for at least 3.5 hours (ignoring the bell time out). I didn't think the bell input on the Odyssey carried the full current, I'll have to get my meter out and check. From a fault finding perspective, being able to discriminate between the two tampers sounds like a good idea - my question was more around whether the Premier Elite can cope with both the traditional 0V tamper signal and the Aux/Fault input also being configured as a sounder tamper but I'm guessing it won't care. None of the Premier Elite panels have a PIR LED output, the 24 has a single -ve switched output whilst the 48 has 2x -ve switched outputs and the bigger panels have 2x -ve switched, 2x +ve switched and a volt free change-over. The output functions are configurable with walk test being one of the options and are invertible (i.e. you can configure the output on, or off during the walk test). Since the IR model PIRs need a positive supply to disable then the obvious thing is to provide one through a resistor that the panel output can pull low when you do a walk test, I'm trying to pick the value of that resistor so that it can give enough voltage at the PIRs to disable them normally, but won't draw ridiculous current when doing a walk test. Given the 500mA output rating, I could go as low as 24 Ohm, but that would get rather hot during the walk test... Sounds like another job for the meter. Thanks for your comments!
  20. Bigger PSU on the metal cab doesn't matter regarding SAB, your limited by the standby battery hence only one SAB would be the norm. Just set them to LC and recalculate or at least one to SCB, you have too much current IMO. Trigger is the output rating hence why you can wire 2 wire sounders in +ve and trig and they make a noise. Follow the manufacturer instructions for wiring tampers on Ody boxes you usually remove MSW on the first and series with MSW on second. Panels have outputs for PIR led's no resistors just straight from the output programmed "LED Control" They are all +ve to disable and no connection(NC) for LED enable AFAIK, but I generally use other manufacturers for detection
  21. Hi, I'm currently installing a Texecom Premier Elite 24 (metal so the bigger PSU) with two sounders, an Odyssey 1 and an Odyssey 1e, both in SAB mode. This is a DIY install but I like to stick to standards. The Odyssey 1 is wired in 8 core with separate wiring for tamper and fault so could be wired as a Grade 3. The Odyssey 1e is wired in 6 core (it replaces an older sounder) with just the normal 5 wires connected. It looks like the total alarm current for the two sounders exceeds (just) the 900mA fuse rating of the Premier Elite 24. I also note that the bell output on the panel is rated at 500mA max. I'm also using the Texecom IR PIRs (6 off) and I've been asked to disable the LEDs, but I'd like to control them from the panel output so that they still work during a walk test. Some questions: 1. Can I use the Aux 12V (which is also feeding the PIRs) to feed the Odyssey 1e to avoid exceeding the 900mA max alarm current? I assume I just need to connect the +12 supply to the Odyssey 1e to the Aux 12V + terminal, it looks like everything else is negative signalling? 2. I think the Odyssey bell input is just a low current trigger and doesn't carry the bell current itself - is that correct (and therefore I don't need to worry about exceeding the 500mA bell output rating)? 3. The previous install also had two bells and the tamper for these was combined using a relay added to the previous panel. Can I use the normal external sounder tamper input for the Odyssey 1e and then use the Aux/Fault input and a Zone input for the fault and tamper on the Odyssey 1 (as per the Texecom manual recommendation for a Grade 3 install)? That means that both sounders are wired "normally" at the sounder and the panel can discriminate between the two tampers? 4. On the PIRs, there is an LED disable input which is 12V=disable LED and 0V/NC=enable. Does anyone know what current this needs? I was going to connect all the LED disable inputs to a positive supply via a 1k resistor and use the panel output to pull that down to 0V during a walk test - would that work? (As an aside, Texecom really don't have any consistency across their PIR range as to whether 12V, 0V and/or NC on the LED disable input disables the LED). All comments welcome. Best Regards, Dale.
  22. Earlier
  23. Re an app or service for free how reliable do you expect it to be?
  24. As I said, I dont know the products that well, its unlikely the OP will find a decent brand with a non subscription ap. Though, I would not recommend a non subscription app either, the ones that were free were always going down and because they were not being charged for the manufacturers were in no hurry to fix them.
  25. Texecom is now installer registered for Smartcom app. V1 Smartcom app is no longer available for new installs.
  26. Not that you can buy as DIY but there are a few people that recommend Texecom or Pyronix, I dont know these products well enough to recommend them but on paper they are far superior to the DIY tat
  27. As I said in my OP, for wireless its batteries only, transmission via radio. Alternatively you could wire with alarm cable signalling via wiring the latter would be considered a "hybrid" system. Having the power supply outside of the sounder casing would be a security issue. Wired ones are self contained with a "hold-off" that would activate if the cable is cut for this reason.
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