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  1. Yesterday
  2. It's so true they always become a problem later down the line as well.
  3. Yup, the ones you don't want though, only cause pain in the longrun.
  4. I totally agree however you know some customers try to be cheap
  5. Thanks for the replies all - I will have a crack at it later on today or this week just to see if I can identify and understand how he has wired it up Its good learning anyway plus I was thinking of converting it to a smart alarm with one of these konnected boards and hassio - but not sure yet its a bit of money for lets face it not much benefit really
  6. i think a zero reading to sparks is on 20k, to alarm lads 50 ohms is a concern
  7. Last week
  8. You mean short your leads make sure your meter goes zero , and it's unlikely to be near zero if long runs but low reading I would break the block if it's not working anyway , identify each tamper , test each one and then locate problem But as said above upgrade panel or get rid of internet.....
  9. To fix you would need find tamper fault, set a multimeter to resistance and place on 2 green wires places in tamp, you should see a reading near 0, if not you will need to break down and test each zone wire individual until fault is found, in contact the tamper is magnetic, on pir the tamper is mechanical switch or electronic contact. The junction box is where each tamper is wired in series so that if loop is broken tamper loop the alarm goes off.
  10. Thanks told customer only option is upgrade panel and keypad
  11. Depends on what you have, if it's installed correctly then yes but you have took on the liability by removing it. You should of called your maintainer
  12. All these tampers should be in series, colours don't mean much they just mean you can identify them at both ends not what they terminate into, investigation and a multimeter is the answer. Find all the tamper pairs check them all individually, after you find and fix whatever is open, make sure they are all in series. Will only clear with lid closed too. If it's out of your depth maybe consider having an engineer look at it, most would recommend upgrading to something more modern without a global tamper.
  13. Hi all Ive recently added a new PIR in kitchen extension - well that was a few years ago really and the alarm hasnt worked for a while now as weve had quite a bit of work done in the house I have had the tamper light on for ages on the keypad and the alarm would not set - so Ive been trying to sort and while its working now (kind of) I dont think any of the tampers are working at all Ive added new PIRs today and by swapping the old ones off (for the pet friendly type) - I think the alarm should go off when the covers comes off but its not working - so I
  14. Not my expertise But wouldn't it silence otherwise? System will be in fault , you can always active something to find out
  15. Hello guys, I have a faulty heat detector in a 5839 HMO system (a mix of about 12 heat/smoke/call points) I've take the head off and "silenced" the fault buzzer in the downstairs panel, that comes on when a head is removed. My question is - does the rest of the system remain active while the faulty head is off, until I can get a new one on Monday? Thanks.
  16. maybe the fusebox was not operating or the op may have work done which required rcd protection, or it could be like me i moved ours 3 years ago didnt reinstall the old one in new location but installed a full rcbo board instead.
  17. As above, @ 20 years for a £40 panel is excellent value. Time to get your hand in your pocket.
  18. Better to replace panel, as if your competent as you say you are, it will be allot less hassle , and you won't go in circles
  19. It's a Pre-2K Veritas the programming options are very different to modern ones. Part set was option 02 IIRC. Seems like it may have lost all it's memory which is more concerning, has it been serviced and had replacement batteries in that time? We don't provide manuals, codes or defaulting information here as per our guidelines.
  20. Hi, i fitted it over 20 years ago ! have been adding /replacing sensors as needed. alls been fine. However i had a new fuse box fitted, now cant use the system as cannot get into programming mode or to setup which zones are part zones. If i key in #### PROG i get rejected tone, same with #### PROG But if i key in #### 00 or #### 00 the leds all come on, but then keying in 51 doesnt work If i remember right, i didnt have to do that, i think it was just programming mode > key PART > led light up that are in part set., then select which ones you want. But this doesn
  21. Always had a car of sorts but I remember driving home from Sheffield and on the roundabout going onto the M1 a battery slid around on the passenger footwell and started smouldering with some old paper dockets I'd tossed there. I managed to rescue the battery before it took hold and as I was on my way home I did it one handed Dukes of Hazard style without stopping
  22. replace the controls & keypad- euromini or similar ? if you not an alarm man it s probably easier to get it done than spend the day trying to work it out...
  23. You have to be careful when stowing those batteries. I have to confess I've had to bail out a couple of times and toss stuff onto the street. (The van gets pretty untidy. Especially late on Friday afternoons when I start to lose all sense of reason).
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