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Allot has changed since your release.... Eagle is same tho, I think...

Close.... I got high Vis on

Lidl bakery useful. Aldi don't like at all.

I'd assume the fire doors & shoplifters ? But could be anything ? Sainsbury's is my preferred super market. then maybe Tesco ? Morrison's is pretty much - unwashed scum of the earth which makes an Asda look posh, My local Waitrose has an lovely "drain" smell about it, go in your workwear & security follows you I have a nice Heron's & also Heron's on the council estates...these along with farmfoods are brilliant. Go in the store in suit & says please & thank to checkout person & they think you must be a mystery shopper or from snooping from head office !

Morrisons is a bit posh for up here... Heron or Farmfoods maybe?

Ankle tag & 7too7 curfew ? is it listed in the grey "workshop" manual, as the product is much older than pdf files ?

Evening all. I have yet another question regarding my newly installed Premier Elite control panel. Question is, how do I program a particular zone to be timed when in part set ? I think I have managed to set the zones I want to be on or off when the system is part set, but I cannot find any option that allows me to program a zone as timed when part set, I can only find either on or off options. Regards, Dave.

Good evening all. Requesting a little help from the good folk of the security installer. I have a pair of Pyronix internal twin alert speaker / sounder units that I'd like to wire into the above mentioned Texecom Premier 24 control panel. I've attached a couple of pictures showing both the speaker / sounder connections and the control panel connections. If some kind person would kindly give me the correct wiring connections between the two it'd be much appreciated. Thank you and regards, Dave.

Thank you. (I don't have the wiring instructions, this kit came to me as previously used)

Like most sounders the Twin alert manual has the wiring instructions for different manufacturers. Aux Tamp / Aux Tamp / Bell / Spk- / 0V / +12V

It does both. Allowing walk through for Full set and switching to entry for Part sets.

program circuits 1-8 as "Normally Closed" (from zone menu) Out the box the panel is expecting an "End of Line" circuit

Its a two year old thread I doubt that he will reply. In answer to your question. In most cases hard wired detectors are compatible with any brand of panel, you will most likely have to change end of line resistors along with the panel.

As JW stated the charging rate is in the standard. Larger premier panels have a charging rate selection jumper so you can adjust the rate depending on the battery and make sure it conforms.

So I'm thinking this low measurement could be due to voltage drop on the connecting leads (which could amount to a few tenths of a volt at that current). The panel will only measure voltage at the board during a load test.. Next step is to check voltage at the actual terminals of the battery.

Yep I'd also assume the PIR's are in Auto and sleeping. Door contacts shouldn't do that unless you have programmed them incorrectly. They default to always awake.

Thats half an amp in my book

Most likely because you are activating the devices just before or during the setting procedure. Wireless devices will go to sleep for a short period after activation to conserve battery life. If you try triggering a device that has not activated recently you should find the system will respond almost immediately.

I'm thinking I need to connect 0V from the power supply to SAB Hold, because that's actually the negative power supply to the sounder. Then connect 0 V to to External Bell -, because that seems to be Trig - on the schematic.

As above just take it apart and switch it all off bit by bit , I would start with switching off mains , the disconnect battery, mean while your external bell and perhaps internal bell might being going lunatic stylee , hopefully you already have your ladders setup and ready to smash it to bits if it doesn't play ball Btw if old panel still works , leave it in place and set up your new system on the bench , set it up in how you want it to generally work and then install it after , unless your confident anyway , you can still rip out old one

You'll take it all apart and it will likely (if working correctly) make noise until you have finished or until the noise pollution timer kicks in. There is no magic disable button or menu that makes it easy to disable, back doors like that could be exploited.

PJF, thanks for that. By the way, I'm one of the 'old timers' been at it for 30yrs+, ask your guys if any remember the Model 88, 89 or 91 Tele-Alarm, SID 27s Seismic Detector or 23p PSU (got the paperwork for these!!!!!) magpye