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That wasn't 3 kids, that was one Fat Matt...

CSD Professional - Dial 1993 ish into the time machine-

Not defaulting info at all. I haven't told anyone how to change the codes and that process will not reset any codes. It's only to connect to the panel so you can actually use the alarm system.

Probably for the best, but I'd go for a security company rather than an electrician.

Stay late at work, get some overtime in & pay an alarm man to set up it.... They should know hoe the different ext modes work & how to define which buttons does what the keyfob

2 million, if it was worth double he might have considered a powermax...

There is an input for the door contact that needs grounding or the unit is in door forced alarm

Its been a bit of a strange day, first I found a hat full of money, then I got chased by a bloke with a guitar

Don’t think it’s genuine mate.

I imagine protected in loading bay or similar? Looks good

The g2-12 panel supports 4 keypads. As per nova, the max zones are 12 on your pcb. The flex 20 is entry level, with the fx100+ offering many links for automation at a later date. The metal case flex is almost the same pcb as the plastic case with the exception of tamper connector and CPU RF can. It's also the same enclosure as your g2-12, just extra metal to house the PSU and pcb. And of course, the metal case cannot house GSM or RF portal modules. The most recent flex firmware V3.51 has more features that make it more suitable for self monitoring and app control. I would probably go for the plastic enclosure with GSM, Ethernet and RF portal all mounted internally.

The panel will only support 12zones that's why its called G2-12 and there is 12 zones on the main PCB. Upgrade the firmware to a G2-44

7.a - VE736AM a 60m Pir will look smashing in your front rm

Are you in the UK? If you need professional advice you should be getting it from your installer who will be installing it. If you intend to DIY install, the advice you get will not be 'professional' as none of us know your actual requirements, you have merely posted a list of product specifications Is this to replace an existing system? Will be usually dictated by (1.) Will usually be dictated by (1.) Outdated, what do you intend to do with this connection if the system is not professionally monitored? There will usually be a choice of 1 wireless siren per manufacturer, so effectively dictated by (1.) again. I give up on the rest as there is no 'best' technology any more than there is a 'best' car.

Engineers App is "installer" only. Anyone can download the normal free apps even if you have a panel or not. Other manufacturers have subscription models which need you to go through an installer.

Yes Cherry ones, available freely without the 'cheat' position so very odd, unless changed. You could fit them to certain plastic cased Scannys too to add case to wall tamper, there is a cutout in the rear of the case, sometimes the switch part number is stamped into the plastic IIRC

It not a consumer product, You can buy a boiler in Wickes, I doubt Worcester Bosch would be very helpful if you called them for DIY advice?

And the alarm can be found in several council tips

I agree - previously had to apply silicon sealant around rear of box and where cable enters (picture) as water did run along this. The last two times the water has capillaried from the bottom edge into the bottom of the electronics board. I have added more sealant today (picture). Just wanted to thank all respondents for the info on this. I have ordered a new Texecom Odyssey 4 to replace this with.

ta

You see that Tommy? That's you that is!

Some wet and dry and a rattle can of colour and clear coat from your local motor factors is another alternative.

To add to above video pirs useless if your not having them in every location , nor.ally means you don't want any kid of CcTV either , saves more money of course Is video transmission free by yale ? I think your better off with a pyronix enforcer , probably a good DIY choice with ability to take on an installer in the future if needed for cloud etc

Took this tat down- & thought of this topic

2a connector block/strip

All available on amazon and a few other websites direct

How it take to Google all that ?

you boys are not funny !

IIRC, president macron briefly worked for Pete ? something about magazines left in the van....

But none for soap or deodorant!

Also the euro minis are now called the UK mini

qfa Hik copy cameras with plastic lenses that warp in the sun, second and third, and fourth rejected cmos chips. If you're not buying from a Hik registered dealer it will be a copy. Same with Dahua, they dont make cameras for anyone else. they dont sell their rejects either, they retail them as a DIY product called HiVision Bear in mind it costs the same to make a cheap camera as it does to make an expensive one, so the only savings you are gonna make is on the components used. You can buy decent stuff with Hik firmware but you need to know exactly what your looking for, and even then it wont be the same you wont have the settings the same as a hik . Both James and I have been there done that have the Tshirt. I go to China regularly but I wont buy CCTV until they have their act together. Dahua is our base CCTV after that its Milestone and Mobotix

Bear in mind that there is huge differewnces in quality some are downright dangerous

In theory you could use an analytic camera to trigger a wireless output which in turn tells the broadlink to change the channel of the TV to HDMI source. My recorder is plugged into a HDMI input of the TV so its a separate source (like changing from terrestrial tv to a sky box). I control mine manually or ask Alexa to go to HDMI 2 on the tv. To operate the gate or TV or anything by shouting at it yes you need one of those, and an echo, the echo talks to the broadlink to switch stuff on and off. Paul Hibbert explains most of it here

I thought you already had one?

No, My Alexa is not connected to any of my security, unless you count that its on the same router, eventually. The Alexa talks to the broadlink, the broadlink is a ir and rf transmitter, that can switch on anything with ir or rf. I have rf light switch's and of course my garage doors are rf. Controlling a gate or just about anything by voice is simple nowadays.

Heyyyyy, nice pool! That picture looks pretty darn good but it must be upscaled to fill that screen estate.

I use alexa to to switch stuff on and off via a broadlink, I can control my garage doors from alexa but I rarely do, the timing on pressing the button putting my laptop in the boot and getting in the car is about right. but you can control just about anything now with alexa or google doo daa

One issue would be the bandwidth of your network when it comes to planning out a system. If the scene is the same size then 2MP vs 4MP is double the data, double the pixel density but also double the bandwidth on your network. You can imagine how this increases exponentially as you increase camera res. It can be useful for a better image if you need to zoom in on recorded footage when looking at an incident. This all depends on what the coverage is tho, many instances a 2MP is more than enough pixel density to cover the scene so that it out ways the bandwidth and cost of the cameras. As for the monitor aspect of the question (pun intended), you need to consider if the output will support higher resolutions. You can also have issues with aspect ratio if the camera image is becoming stretched on the screen the image will look less clear even at a higher res. Monitors are sold by there graphics display resolution and ratio whereas cameras are most often sold as megapixel which is a different measurement.

People boats they have 4k cameras , 4k monitor with an NVR or DVR that only outputs 2mp

Have you made sure you have clipped the detector front in fully? If it has built in resistors are they disabled? Is zone 11 mapped to something? Is there a reason why zone 10's COM is in the Zone 11's one?

Making it work isn't fixed. You can bypass it but it is low grade stuff

Fixed

Try Orisec, you'll soon change your mind

If you are going to commit fraud, always a good tip not to plan it out loud on a public forum, don't we think?

But asking for pro advice after buying a diy bit of kit. Send it back I say and get ur refund.

When a consumer purchases goods from a business, they will have rights under the Sale of Goods Act 1979 as amended. This legislation states that goods supplied by businesses must be of satisfactory quality and fit for purpose. This means that they must be safe, free from minor defects, durable, amongst other things. Where this is not the case, the seller of the goods can be held in breach of contract and may have to offer a remedy to the consumer. If you have had the item for a fairly short time, it may be possible to for a full refund, as you may not have had the goods for a long enough period of time to be deemed to have ‘accepted’ them in the eyes of the law. This period of time can vary depending on the type of item you have. Important bit:-​ You can also make a claim for the original and return postage. Essentially, you should not be at a financial loss as a result of the breach of contract. Although eBay have made a ruling, their decision is not legally binding and hence you can claim under the Sale of Goods Act. this was three years ago and consumer direct was closing later that year, and advised after they closed citizen advice. If you dont have clear instruction on how to utilise the product it is useless but how you that is another issue.

Just to correct the above comment about fibaro, they haven't left the UK market at all. They where bought by Nice and now Nice UK administrator the company. They've changed the way they view the market and now are no longer straight to consumer, they only provide through registered installers like myself.

Sorry, I don't understand your point

If you say so, just thought I'd help but as usual this forum is full of ....