hpotter

IR cameras? try leaving one disconnected in case psu probs as oxo suggests. might be one cam in particular taking more than the rest, or psu can no longer keep up.

I think what you'll find is you've changed your 4 digit code and it's within the 7 digits you are pressing to set/unset your system. Without defaulting (or getting an engineer) try and set system 1 digit at a time and as soon as it starts bleeping you'll know it was the previous 4 digits (might be worth writing them down before starting). Those last 4 digits will be your new code!

<15 means less than fifteen posts. In otherwords you need to make 15 posts before the system allows you to view profiles etc.

Well thats proves sounder ok. Check on panel pcb. There will be a two or three fuses. From memory, think 1 for battery (1.6A), 1 for aux 12v (1A), and 1 for bell/strobe (1A). With all power off (mains & battery - sounder goes), gently prise out each fuse in turn and pinch together the lugs of the fuse holder (1pair per fuse) and then put fuse back in (dont mix up fuses). Re-connect battery, shut lid then re-appy mains. Trigger alarm. If no joy, I reckon you need a new panel.

Hmm. Well if sounder ok when 12+ taken out, as stated before, SAB driving it not the panel. With the 12v +ve in place, try taking the wire in the panel out of the trigger and touching it on 0v.

When you operate the bellbox tamper the SAB is powering the sounder locally. When you trigger the alarm, the panel is suppling the power. As Antinode says use meter to check panel output on trigger. The hold off voltage might be enough to prevent sounder going & keep Nicad in SAB charged, but panel might not be able to provide enough current to drive the sounder. How old is the panel battery? Look under keyswitch assembly to see if there is any scorch marks on pcb, esp near a 47ohm 1/2 watt resistor. If yes (as I suspect) change battery.