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Hi all, apologies if this is in anyway a stupid question but I could very much use some expert advice with this please! Essentially, I moved into a new-build property a couple of years ago and it has what I believe to be the 'Scantronic 9751' alarm system installed. Is there a way this can be upgraded to make it more 'smart' and/or connected? Ideally I'd like to be able to remotely monitor it, and use the motion sensors that are in each room in a more intelligent way (i.e. connecting to Alexa/Hue/Google/Homekit/Smartthings etc.). Presumably I'll have to replace the 9751 itself (which is fine) but just unsure if there's something I can purchase that…

Hi all, I have been conducting research into a new alarm system and have been swayed by the wireless tech currently available. My ideal is for a system that can be brought together with a NEST system to give me a good grounding for home automation, rather than having several apps for several purposes - however I have so far only found one system in the US that can accommodate, Vivint who i don't think have a UK supplier? With that i thought it best to stick to a firm that offers a good app solution that looks like it is likely to develop in the future - I have so far narrowed this down to The Pyronix Homecontrol+ and Visonic Powermax systems. I kno…

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Hello, Got a 'AUX 0 Tamper' out of the blue today on a remote LCD keypad. No changes to the alarm, which has been installed for about 17 years. Battery 12 months old. The premier installation manual has this on the event log description: AUX # Tamper An Auxiliary Tamper input from device # has been activated Which doesn't say a lot. Q> Does this mean the Aux Tamper circuit on the main PCB has gone open circuit? picture below. There's another tamper for the bell box, but that has its own event log message, as does the control panel lid. It's an intermittent fault, so hard to trace. Want …

Long story short, a family member used to be in the alarm industry. They had a HKC 70 Quantum kit (2 x PIRs, 1 x Door contract, 1 x SABB) they gave me for free. I setup the alarm using the engineering manual. Here is what I have done: Setup 3 zones (Hall, Lounge, Kitchen) Added RF devices (PIR 1, PIR 2, Door contact) Assigned RF devices to each zone Door Contact => Hall Zone => Entry / Exit PIR => Lounge => Alarm PIR => Kitchen => Alarm Assigned two users (each with different codes) Added proxy FOBs for each user Did a walk test, all devices w…

Hi all, I have recently been testing out an AJAX Wireless Alarm System. So far it seems pretty good. Just wondering if anyone here has used these systems? and what are they like in the long term for reliability? ...and how long do the batteries really last in real life use please? Thanks

Hi all, So I was looking at the Scantronic I-ON panels and I read something about 'Daisy Chaining' or BUS Wiring - Where you can install the devices - from one to the other. Can someone explain if this actually works? and how it is done? ...and how does it work? ....does this work for PIRs? or only Key Pads? Thanks

The house I live in has an old alarm system installed. Some years ago it started to produce false alarms and since then I have never enabled it. It just sits there unused. The external SAAB panel has a flashing blue light. I do have the code to enable the system and also the code to put it into service mode. I want to remove the whole system from my house. I am afraid that if I just cut all the wires, the external alarm will sound. I understand it has a battery so will sound even if the power is removed from the control panel. Also, the SAAB leaflet talks about 220 volts in the panel area (not sure how 220v gets there but it makes me wary). I would appreciate advice on ho…

Hi all, I removed a friend's Bell Box as they were having some work done. ...a few months later I have now re-installed a Texecom 1E Sounder - But the alarm panel is now showing an error: AUX DC FAIL Any help or advise please? Thanks

Hi I have an old alarm system as above which has developed a fault ( i think since the back door was changed and sensor lost by installer) inside it looks fairly logical in terms of circuits - guessing open/ closed etc triggers alarm or exit delat etc. Appreciate its old tech but if i can fix it i would like too. I see there is a link to a manual on here but i dont have permssion to down load - is it me or is it an old link etc? Any help greatfully appreciated, thanks

Hi all, I have purchased and installed most of a Visonic system, the main panel being a Visonic PowerMax Express. I am looking to purchase batteries for the external sounder but am not sure which model number to use for the search as on the abs housing it is labeled as an MCS-740 and on the PCB it is labeled as an MCS-730. This is of course stupidity on my part but if someone could humour be I'd be very much obliged. Matthew

I have an SW-1070 panel. My external doors are set to have entry/exit delays on full alarm, i.e they're on an entry/exit zone. An SMS message told me there was an exit fault when I wasn't at home. I listened to the series of events and then tried setting the alarm but when I opened my back door, the alarm didn't start beeping to indicate I needed to enter the code. However the internal sounder didn't operate when entry time was exceeded. So I listened to the alarm log again and it said there was an entrance fault I think, but strangely the internal sounder nor the external sounder operated. Maybe I had put the code in before that happened (not sure of the delay between en…

The alarm in my house is just not working. The spanner light is on and I am unable to reset it. The system is about 10 years old. I replace the battery on the unit as I thought that was the issue. No luck. It will let me enter numbers but none of the other buttons will do anything other than give the sound suggestion it's the wrong action. As I said, if I put the master code in, it's not taking it. I would be very grateful if anyone help me understand the issue?

I've taken my sounder off the wall and I'm checking it on my workbench. It's powered from a desk power supply set to 12 V, connected to the external bell input terminals. I would have thought it would activate with the back tamper open, but it didn't. I closed the back tamper for 4 seconds and opened it and it still didn't activate and tried the same with the battery connected. Shouldn't all of these tamper conditions and also open circuit holds activate the unit? If a burglar cuts the cable, shouldn't the 6 V battery activate it, or is it only edge triggered (i.e when the tampers were initially closed when the sounder was powered down and then opened that triggers it? ) …

New Pyronix E76 system with Input Expansion Module. Fully wired system except for the external bell which is wireless. Roughly every 20 - 30 minutes the polling to the bell fails and the system cannot be set. Home Control displays the message "Wirles Poll Fail: Full Set Night Set Siren 1" After about 10 - 15 minutes the polling is restored with the message "Wirls Poll Restr: Full Set Night Set Siren 1" and the system can now be set again. The installers attended and replaced the wireless bell and reported that the system was working normally. However, these polling failures have continued. Any ideas as to what is going on? …