!!..DIY Installers..!!

I'm just laying the cabling around the floorboards, 50% done so far - I never knew there were so many power cables in this old house. With the dialler, it doesn't seem like there is an installer manual (can't even see it on risco's site) so I'm not sure how many cable runs I need to do to and from the unit. I'm using 8 core cable. The unit has 3 inputs. Obviously Intruder is one... I'm not too fussed about the other two triggers at the moment but then I don't want to have to rip up the carpet later if I think I need one for PA etc. SO. Will one 8core run be enough or...? Thnx, Alex

Would anyone be so kind as to explain my basic questions on the operation of the soak test feature on the Texecom Premier Panels? I presume you choose which zones you want to be tested by using the 'On Test' attribute and then enable Soak Test. But then what? Are faults logged only when the system is set? Does the alarm operate as normal when on test but faults logged (i.e. can trigger the alarm/sounders etc), or are activations only logged and can never trigger an intruder alarm? What conditions cause a zone to fail? Many thanks

Hi, I was just wondering what is the recommended / reasoning behind fitting a reed switch to the main entry point ( front door ) opposed to putting a PIR in the hall way that would also detect movement? Thanks

About two years ago I installed an alarm system at home, and it has been fantastic, no false alarms at all. We have just had some building work done, and I'm not able to run a cable from the new room to the control box. I can however run a cable from the new room to another PIR. This isn't ideal, but can I wire up the new PIR and connect it to the original one, effectively putting two PIRs in one zone? I know that I would need to wire the power in parallel and the Tamper in series, but how do I wire the alarm pair? I thought it was best to check rather than get it wrong and blow a fuse or damage the system. If it matters, this is on an ADE Accenta mini G3. Thanks, Br…

Hello All, I have a Scantronic 9752 panel which I have wired with a number of PIR's and two keypads I am powering it up as per instructions (installed two 9751's) before and I have kickstarted it However when I go to the panel and enter 'default user code' or 'default engineer code' I get 'Invalid Code' I have also tried 'default user code' and 'default engineer code' I have tried removing the power and then shorting the NVRam reset pins and repeating The fault does not go away. How long do you need to short the NV-RAM clear pins and does the panel have to have power supplied to it or not ? Thanks in advance james

OK, some background first. More than 20 years ago I installed an alarm system in my home. It was a Skytronix panel. No remote keypad, no PIRs, 'real' bell outside, sounder inside, most of the wiring was 4 wire. Some even just two wire. Contacts on all the windows. One or two now damaged and shorted. I recently decided to upgrade and improve quality and reliability. I have bought a new panel (with remote keypad), a siren (ext bell), sounder, several PIRs and a drum of 6-wire cable. No pets in the house. In order to learn fully about the panel operation I have wired it up on a work bench. I connected the panel, siren, keypad, internal sounder and one PIR. All tamp…

I am adding a panic button to a new panel. Am I correct in thinking that its behaviour should be the same as that of a tamper switch? By that I mean, when activated, it should cause a full alarm whether the panel is 'armed' or not. So I should simply connect the switch to a tamper circuit? Ken.

Last question for the moment Each zone can be defined as a certain type - entry / alarm / PA / etc. etc. Each of these types has various associated options - exclude from partset A, double knock, chime etc etc. One such option is SOAK - what does this mean? It applies to all of the possible zone types. [the panel is a HKC SW812 - although I assume the meaning of the option is universal] Ken

Well everything has arrived - except the panel itself but that's due to arrive later. The bell box looks well shiny. Anyway, when I had some quotes round, they all looked to install the PIRs in the same place as I thought. After measuring out wirelengths etc last night and taking up some floor boards, I got wondering. Is it a good idea to have a PIR covering half an area that another PIR is covering? Take my living room for example. I have placed one in there that will cover the living room / dining room. Just off that is the front door divided by a original wall before we knocked the rooms through - to give a bit of privacy to whomever was in the living room from the…

Hi All I have a 7 year old Response Alarm PW600plus system which I believe is an ADE re badge equipment. I have kept the alarm in good condition and changed the back up battery in the control panel several times and only last year. Recently for no known reason the siren in the ADE Sonade2000 Bell box keeps going off independent of the control panel. Note this is not continuously but rather happens approx 5 times a day. I do not have any 24 faults showing. The bell box siren goes off and the siren does not flash. Seems strange it should go off independent. The only thing I can think off is that the back up battery in the bell box needs replacing as it is 7 years ol…

Hi All I going to install a Melcom AD1000 Voice Dialer to a non Melcom contorl panel. The wring looks straight forward but Rather then using the Bell - to trigger I was going to use the Bell + and change the Voice Dialer settings to take 12v. The reason for this is that Melcom has supplied a 1k resistor which they state needs to be connected to the Bell + and Bell - if using a Bell - trigger. I no expert but would this casue issues with other items connected to the Bell + and Bell - such as the Bell Box?

Dear all, I have got a gardtec 595 panel brand new and a new wireless reciever but i was reading up the manual and says some of the old components do not work with the reciever now i have 3 spare keyfob transmitters part no: 74012 and i think i need the more up to date keyfob does anyone know why this model was changed and is there any way i can use the older model fob as i have another 3 panels fitted at work that work off of the old keyfob is there any way i can program one of the old 74012 fobs to work with this reciever??? Also does the new keyfobs if i ordered one work with the older reciever does anyone know?

Hi We have a Scantronic 9940 Keypad fitted to our alarm system in the hallway of our house. We are currently in the middle of decorating though and would like to move the keyapd away from the wall so that we can paper behid it (i like to do things properly ). What i want to check though before i go unscrewing screws, does the keypad have any tamper switches built into it? If so, how can i move it so this doesnt set the alarm off? Any help on this matter is much appreciated! Thanks Martin B)

Hi, i have had the CPX panel installed in my new house, however did not have an active phone line. This has now been enabled so i have connected the dedicated phone extension to the panel via the master socket XTE 2005 faceplate on filtered IDC terminals 2 & 5. My problem is that when I receive a voice call, all i hear is noise on the line like a fax machine so can the other person on the other end. This only happens when I connect the cpx phone extension to the master socket IDC terminals. Please help

Hi, I am looking to fit a door latch release, I was wondering if there is anything available that would allow me to control this from a Premier 48 pannel. I didn't want to have to fit another keypad as a seperate system - also because of power failure etc if I didnt need to as there is an alarm keypad right next to the door in question. Ideally if I could tap in a pin and have the latch trigger that would be great. Regards John