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  1. Yesterday
  2. See screenshot attached
  3. Hi, I think it's a Euro46 V10. Thanks!
  4. NVM failure would not make the keypad blank and unresponsive, cable to keypad or keypad is fooked (technical term)
  5. Thanks for help - guess it's exploring tomorrow! I will report back - positive or negative. Ron
  6. On this panel the external bell shouldn't sound when you take the cover off But you can disconnect the internal speaker if codes are no good
  7. Just found picture of PCB that makes it clear that NVM chip is NOT socketed - so I will have to try out and hope that NVM chip is OK - Nice tamper switch! I will look hard at wiring continuity to keypad. You mentioned external sounder controlled by bell box itself. If the internal sounder is a problem then it seems that I can simply disconnect it from the LS terminals until I can get keypad working. Presumably if I disconnect external sounder wires the bell will do its business once but not reset after its 20 minutes? Sorry to be a pain!
  8. Thanks for you very quick response, sixwheeledbeast. In the last few minutes I found a thread on another site that points to possible failure of the NVM chip or perhaps just lost its programming so an NVM reset (or maybe replacement) might bring things back to life - at the expense of retuning all the default factory settings to what is needed. None of that is a problem for me - provided the NVM chip is socketed rather than soldered - and that I can identify the chip required - but, as you say, a complete new panel plus proximity keypad is only £100 if that does not work - But it'
  9. Maybe the keypad or cabling to the keypad is faulty? To power down the system you will have to deal with the bellbox hold-off, this will run for 15-20 minutes every time it looses power or has a trigger (the bell itself controls this time). If your competent it maybe time to consider upgrading the controls while your messing out diagnosing what is broken. Bellbox batteries are generally not worth replacing just replace. Being cheap you may find it's just the keypad but probably just kicking the can down the road if something else fails, hard to say without looking at the overall
  10. HI - I'm being very cheeky and looking for a bit of advice concerning the alarm in a house that we have just moved into. I'm very competent in both electrics and electronics but unaware of the detail of security devices. The house is fitted with a Scantronics 9651 panel wired to 5 PIR's and an internal and external sounder with the basic 9930 keypad and is a really basic system installed by the builders about 14 years ago. When we bought the house I asked the vendors for the user master code and was told that they hadn't used the alarm for many years and had forgotten the codes.
  11. Hi, With my installer we tried doing a zone but it doesn't really work as i want it to. I have a Full Set/Night Set/Outhouse & Garage (new) When i am out of the house i usually set Full Set on. We recently added Garage, so that i can arm/disarm the garage separately from the other zones. Which i can do and it works as it should. However, as the Garage is also part of the Night Set, so when i am at home and for example i am upstairs and i un-arm Garage, it still sets off the alarm. But i also like the fact that when i arm Night Set
  12. Last week
  13. It's so true they always become a problem later down the line as well.
  14. Yup, the ones you don't want though, only cause pain in the longrun.
  15. I totally agree however you know some customers try to be cheap
  16. Thanks for the replies all - I will have a crack at it later on today or this week just to see if I can identify and understand how he has wired it up Its good learning anyway plus I was thinking of converting it to a smart alarm with one of these konnected boards and hassio - but not sure yet its a bit of money for lets face it not much benefit really
  17. i think a zero reading to sparks is on 20k, to alarm lads 50 ohms is a concern
  18. You mean short your leads make sure your meter goes zero , and it's unlikely to be near zero if long runs but low reading I would break the block if it's not working anyway , identify each tamper , test each one and then locate problem But as said above upgrade panel or get rid of internet.....
  19. To fix you would need find tamper fault, set a multimeter to resistance and place on 2 green wires places in tamp, you should see a reading near 0, if not you will need to break down and test each zone wire individual until fault is found, in contact the tamper is magnetic, on pir the tamper is mechanical switch or electronic contact. The junction box is where each tamper is wired in series so that if loop is broken tamper loop the alarm goes off.
  20. Thanks told customer only option is upgrade panel and keypad
  21. Depends on what you have, if it's installed correctly then yes but you have took on the liability by removing it. You should of called your maintainer
  22. All these tampers should be in series, colours don't mean much they just mean you can identify them at both ends not what they terminate into, investigation and a multimeter is the answer. Find all the tamper pairs check them all individually, after you find and fix whatever is open, make sure they are all in series. Will only clear with lid closed too. If it's out of your depth maybe consider having an engineer look at it, most would recommend upgrading to something more modern without a global tamper.
  23. Hi all Ive recently added a new PIR in kitchen extension - well that was a few years ago really and the alarm hasnt worked for a while now as weve had quite a bit of work done in the house I have had the tamper light on for ages on the keypad and the alarm would not set - so Ive been trying to sort and while its working now (kind of) I dont think any of the tampers are working at all Ive added new PIRs today and by swapping the old ones off (for the pet friendly type) - I think the alarm should go off when the covers comes off but its not working - so I
  24. Not my expertise But wouldn't it silence otherwise? System will be in fault , you can always active something to find out
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