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Can anyone tell me how to register new wireless key fobs (TCC8M) to a Honeywell Galaxy 2 system please? Thanks in anticipation.

Morning All, First post here so please be gentle. I installed my Tex Premier 48 a few years back - not in the trade but am an engineer and our company does do security but not a Texecom specialist. The panel is a v9 and i have a plan to add a few more tricks to its bag which got me looking. I see that the panels are now called Premier Elite 48 but cannot for the life of me find a comparison / difference between the two. is it just firmware ? I have the relevant USB and flasher lead to perform an upgrade and access to the Texecom website to get the new firmware. My real question is can i upgrade my prem 48 v9.00 to a prem elite 48 v3.00? Failing that is t…

Hi all I'm loving this forum and would really appreciate your advice. I've been looking at wireless, 2-way, professionally installed alarms with the option to control remotely via app (for 4-bed house). Price isn't as important to me as reliability, so I'd really like your opinion on which of the following is likely to cause the fewest headaches (because of part failure, app failure, false alarms etc): - HKC 1070 - Pyronix Enforcer HomeControl+ - Texecom Premier All the reps have seemed fairly decent and knowledgeable, so I don't feel particularly strongly about any of the companies. I also know I need to consider any annual maintenance fees. But - …

Apologies for reposting what others have experienced, but in my case I do have (what is supposedly) the engineer's code, and I'm still being locked out. Display: "Reset Required > Sound Tamper" Lights: Power LED (green), Service LED (red) I've tried typing in both the Engineer's code, and my own but in both cases the display says the code is invalid. I suspect I already know the answer ("the Engineer's code you have isn't the right one"), but I'm just posting in case I've missed an RTFM moment, such as 'press x, then key in the code'. I'm not hopeful, but I'd be a fool not to even ask if there's something I can do without the expense of calling out an engineer. Th…

Hi, I'm looking to see if someone can help out with the problem I seem to be having with my alarm system where the strobe won't stop flashing. It was installed when the house was built about 12 years ago and this is the first time it's given us trouble. We've been having a few power cuts recently, and I discovered that the back-up battery had gone in the panel because teh alarm sounded when the power went off - so I replaced that today and tested that the charge supply was OK, which it is at just over 13v on the DVM. But, after the last power cut on Saturday the strobe won't stop flashing, even after multiple sets and unsets, tests on the bell, strobe sounder …

Hi to one and all, I am new to this Forum, so please allow for my ignorance, I also hope I have posted this in the correct place. I am not an installer, (I am a retired automotive electrical design engineer) although I have installed a few alarms for friends. I have a holiday Villa in Spain and have a Guardtec 595 Hybrid system, Control Box wired to G-Tag Keypad (01182PA4W) with a Wifi Expander and Wifi PIRs also WiFi door contacts on outbuildings, I also have three G-Tag Fobs and a couple of four button Keyfobs. So now onto my question (plea for advice and help) The LCD on the Keypad has blown, so I basically need a new keypad, these keypads are now obsolete, s…

Engineering manual How do you default the engineer code on a rs125

Hi I live in a place where there is a row of houses, Behind our garden is a place where we all park our cars. I have idiot neighbours who have parties all the time and bring over friends to leave rubbish, vomit, and literally trash the place. I spoke to the people on all the neighbours behalf and I am sure I'm the target. I have people standing behind my fence making noises and when I look around back they are gone. My car has got damaged. There are a lot rubbish at the back of my house. Obviously I cant prove it is them, but it is a coincidence that all these things are happening to me, after having arguments with this particular neighbour. I have asked an CCTV insta…

Hi. I'm living at my Nans house. She has not used the alarm for about 5 years. I tried to set the alarm yesterday with what I thought was the code, however the internal alarm went mad and also the alarm on the keypad went mad. I could not stop it so I had to cut the cable from the keypad to the control panel. I rewired the broken cable but the keypad is dead, the pirs are all lit up. When I connected the live wire to the keypad it makes a very light ticking noise but no lights on the panel. Any ideas...please. Thanks

Hi all. I am intending replacing the spy glass in my front door with a covert cameraa, but I don't want any cables trailing into the living room where the PC is located, but I was wondering if I couls attach the camera to an old unused mobile phone and f so, what should I do and what gear would I use? Many thanks. Ken.

I need some irrefutable proof from the experts on this one since a local electronics boffin appears to doubt the integrity of the term 'two way' when related to wireless detection. The claim, basically, is that the panel does not 'talk to' detectors, but rather it interrogates it's own received signals from detectors, but does not actually interrogate the detectors themselves only the received signals.

I have installed a Honeywell dt7550 today and I have a slight problem where after a few minutes of it being powered up the Red led flashes rapidly I have read in the manual this means microwave supervision failure however the detector still works fine on walk test? So I was wondering if I could have any help in making it work properly please? Below is how I have wired it and a view of the pcb

Hi folks. I have a 14 year old Scantronic 9448ES alarm with newish Pyronix Belle box and 14 year old Pyronix hard-wired PIR detectors. There is a fault on zone 4, the PIR in the dining room. As soon as I try to set the alarm I get the beep beep at the keypad but zone 4 light stays lit continuously, followed by full alarm sounding after 20 seconds. Therefore zone 4 is in full alarm triggering mode. It won't go into engineer mode. I key 0 followed by 7890 and all LEDs should then flash, but they don't. Also, it won't walk test. No obvious response from anything when I key the relevant code in. You guys said I should loop out zone 4.(I asked the question …

I'm just about to replace my old bell box with a Pyronix Delta plus( with back light). I've just found out that the original installer only used 4 core cable from the control panel to the bell box, so not sure how to overcome this? Other than run new cable, which is a long run under floors. Guess I'm answering my own question here..... David

I broke my own rule a few months back and bought a roll of unbranded twelve core on ebay. Never used it, thought it might be OK as a spare and put it away. Had a glance at it recently, it's so thin, smaller than four core and stripping is a nightmare. I asked around and one chap said that the chinese had bought up all the copper, he said ".. but not to worry..there's no voltage loss.." but that's just it..I am worried !! So what's the truth of the matter, is all the branded cable as thin as that..I haven't bought any for ages..any good reccomendations welcome.