sixwheeledbeast

Maybe a spit gun but not staples...

A switch with an access point is possibly the term your looking for. Or maybe just an access point plugged into the current switch. Every site is different when it comes to WiFi signal, so many variables to work with. In a standard house the router is often in the worst place for WiFi signal due where the master socket is. Often disabling the WiFi at the router and having a decent wired access point in a central location best solution with minimal kit cost.

That would indicate to me that it was unreliable or had an issue and they just killed all the internal sounders and left it. I suppose you will have to see.

Maybe the keypad or cabling to the keypad is faulty? To power down the system you will have to deal with the bellbox hold-off, this will run for 15-20 minutes every time it looses power or has a trigger (the bell itself controls this time). If your competent it maybe time to consider upgrading the controls while your messing out diagnosing what is broken. Bellbox batteries are generally not worth replacing just replace. Being cheap you may find it's just the keypad but probably just kicking the can down the road if something else fails, hard to say without looking at the overall

All these tampers should be in series, colours don't mean much they just mean you can identify them at both ends not what they terminate into, investigation and a multimeter is the answer. Find all the tamper pairs check them all individually, after you find and fix whatever is open, make sure they are all in series. Will only clear with lid closed too. If it's out of your depth maybe consider having an engineer look at it, most would recommend upgrading to something more modern without a global tamper.

It's a Pre-2K Veritas the programming options are very different to modern ones. Part set was option 02 IIRC. Seems like it may have lost all it's memory which is more concerning, has it been serviced and had replacement batteries in that time? We don't provide manuals, codes or defaulting information here as per our guidelines.

You were posting help for Scantronic systems less than 24 hours ago... hmm

I would expect something like right click properties and then find the update drivers option? Would suggest it's best to let Windows do it if you can, especially as it seems to know it need updating.

Most likely it's down to the COM port selected, try different combination of physical ports and COM port until you get a connection? Setup > Modem > PC-COM If it's the fancy newish black lead I would expect the FTDI driver to install automatically on first connection, but I don't really play much with Windows.

Seems I was right. Something clearly doesn't add up here, good luck with whatever this thread was suppose to achieve.

I don't like this attitude, condescending to rule out everybody else's opinion as childish because it doesn't align with your opinions. Maybe your not but it comes across that way. Remember most trade contributors have decades of experience screwing boxes of electronics to walls with some effort of providing security and detection. If this is the type of answer you are looking for then it's a different topic of conversation about the industry as a whole, it's a massive bag of worms difficult to put in one post... You contradict yourself in the same post, your not in th

https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/technology-54903754 I am sure a new manual will fix it, every DIYer reads the manual, right?

Sorry don't get excited, I don't recall working on one either, but just a word of caution I suppose. You have to consider it's a life safety system, its one thing fumbling though programming on intruder worst case in most instances if something was wrong would be a fail to operate and possibly damage or stolen items, not advised but it's not life. It depends on if you are just providing operational checks or if your expected to repair faults and re-commissioning, you would only need Level 2 access for the former. I know you didn't put yourself in this position when sales want to

Yep agreed would use motion for adaptable framerate but not for alarms. There is more to video motion detection than just area masking too,

It would be best to keep "discussions" on topic, however this thread has started to go rogue already... AJAX more expensive DIY tat with a posh website and consumer marketing waffle. People will buy anything if its got a shiny app for it. Only PSU or external standby battery options, meaning your relying on a hidden nokia sized lithium battery in a power cut seems "secure"