sixwheeledbeast

Panel speaker is programmed for Area A only OOTB

They're waiting in the safe room with a shotgun

You asked the question

Was it fitted inside, it hardly looks used?

Investigatory Powers Act 2016 started it off in the UK really. A group of politicians making legislation that have no understanding of how the internet works, I suppose you can argue similar for other topics. Anyone that thinks an engineered back door in encryption should be mandatory has no place making decisions on this stuff. Next cock up is the Digital Economy Act 2017 Just like mandatory ISP records that's a nice carrot of information that would be worth a bit of money if hacked/leaked.

I would probably start by proving the headset by swapping them over, then maybe check the wiring if the fault follows location not equipment.

The issue with diallers is they often take a hit when the phone line has a surge. You can normally tell an SD1 is faulty when it misbehaves or looses it's memory while you program it. I wouldn't say the SD1 has a higher failure rate to any others I have seen. It does sound more like a line issue or the acknowledgment type is programmed wrong.

You can't just spec a system from a list like that. Everyone would recommend different solutions and manufacturers anyway so you wouldn't be able to compare.

Engineers App is "installer" only. Anyone can download the normal free apps even if you have a panel or not. Other manufacturers have subscription models which need you to go through an installer.

Any maintained system will be more reliable than a non-maintained system, but that wasn't the original question. I fully agree that a DIYer can spend weeks or months doing something that an installer can do in 1/2 day but clearly the OP has done this before so is willing to take a punt.

Not really 99% of them end up in the bin. If your an installer your expected to already have a copy or know the system well enough. Depending on what system model your fitting the Ricochet expander maybe best in the loft and I would wire the keypads.

I don't believe much has changed since you fitted your last system other than the panels don't come with installation instructions any more. The COM-WiFi is discontinued but it has been replaced with the Smart-COM which has a bit more functionality and slightly more polished app. I am not one for apps but consider even without the app you should end up with something more reliable, secure and still supported going forward. If the system you have now is unreliable and you felt competent enough to fit your last system then you have nothing to loose IMO. Replace all the electronic bits, test any wires and reuse if they are in good condition. Loft isn't normally the best place for a control panel, but I suppose it just means you will need to be replacing the battery a little more often.

Option 12 to 2 Option 22 to 1 Clear the panel down to day mode. Use the Part button to test it works

You can program systems to do whatever you need but the best solution is using the part set. The correct term for Texecom panels is "Guard Access" or "Inhibited Entry". You will need to reprogram the Part set function for Zone 2 to be Entry/Exit and the full set for Zone 2 to be Inhibited Entry

I suppose they are talking about the HKC Quantum