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sixwheeledbeast

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  1. Under the second plant pot on the right WFM
  2. Depends what you mean as a "closed system". Remote monitoring to an ARC is more secure than a stand alone bells only system. Either way this topic is more about the distribution of firmware, I pretty much covered my opinion in the quote.
  3. Down power the panel you'll get the bell ringing outside, that'll help find an intermittent beep...
  4. You can't boost a signal that's inside a faraday cage...
  5. Well to much current for 7Ah. At least 12hours standby with one full activation. Some systems depending on the grade and signalling would be 24 hours plus one activation. Aux/Fault is Aux/Fault and Bell tamper is Bell tamper from the return, log will show this. Outputs are all programmable in software the bigger panels are already setup for LED control OOTB, wouldn't expect LED Control not being OOTB is an issue on domestic market the 24 is aimed at. I have already said what outputs for LED's should be programmed as. Don't use pull up resistors on the outputs.
  6. Bigger PSU on the metal cab doesn't matter regarding SAB, your limited by the standby battery hence only one SAB would be the norm. Just set them to LC and recalculate or at least one to SCB, you have too much current IMO. Trigger is the output rating hence why you can wire 2 wire sounders in +ve and trig and they make a noise. Follow the manufacturer instructions for wiring tampers on Ody boxes you usually remove MSW on the first and series with MSW on second. Panels have outputs for PIR led's no resistors just straight from the output programmed "LED Control" They are all +ve to disable and no connection(NC) for LED enable AFAIK, but I generally use other manufacturers for detection
  7. Texecom is now installer registered for Smartcom app. V1 Smartcom app is no longer available for new installs.
  8. As I said in my OP, for wireless its batteries only, transmission via radio. Alternatively you could wire with alarm cable signalling via wiring the latter would be considered a "hybrid" system. Having the power supply outside of the sounder casing would be a security issue. Wired ones are self contained with a "hold-off" that would activate if the cable is cut for this reason.
  9. I would wire the bell in alarm cable myself. I don't have any parts in mind to suit your full list of requirements. Had to fit those Mains sounders on one job in the past and I wouldn't recommend them at all. I am also pretty sure they are discontinued with no direct replacement, the 740 is batteries.
  10. The is little point in transmitting power via a cable without messages. Completely wireless is no wiring, it's wired or wireless option per device. A wire would be multicore and provide power and trigger, tamper signals back to control panel. The SMPS is part of the control panel normally with proprietary or some molex connector as SMPS will need to provide fault output to conform to standards. Never seen any pro kit utilise solar it's a bit pointless kit has to be designed for all environments. It's also designed in a way that it can't be tampered with, or power removed without triggering an alert on the system. DIY stuff doesn't have standards to conform to so can often be easily defeated.
  11. Are we talking professional kit? If so... Systems vary based on manufacturer but power source for the panel is generally mains connection to a switch mode power supply with some DC output to the PCB. This is contained within the panels cabinet. External sounders could be completely wireless or possibly have option for wired back to the panel in standard alarm cable with 12v connection (these would also have battery). They are suitable for external weather but are not IP rated. Batteries are mostly Lithium disposable and would have to be replaced periodically. External sounder batteries vary from manufacturer and can be special. Wireless would usually tie you to that manufacturer for wireless components, so all products need to be from the same product line, industry are mostly 868Mhz now but that doesn't mean you can mix products. I would generally use a hybrid system, wire as much as I can and use wireless only where necessary.
  12. Probably best to leave the existing one in if it's all working and servicable. Ripping something out and not knowing how to replace it seems a daft idea. So many things could go wrong and you'd be left with an non-working system plus annoying the neighbours outside with the bell ringing and no way to isolate it. You explain everything you believe you understand but not much on what you need help with. If you are going to try this yourself then setting up the new system separately (bench test) would be the way to go. Make sure all the programming for panel and sensors is correct, simulate all your sensors with loops of wire or resistors, testing outputs with a multimeter. Get everything right before you start, DIY often spend months asking questions on why x and y isn't working, it's a security system after all, as much use as a chocolate fireguard if setup wrong.
  13. Different images maybe slightly different issue. You can't compare with front camera as that is still in day mode.
  14. Sounds like IR "splashback". IR's are reflecting back off the bubble. The tolerance between the bubble and foam maybe off. need to make sure the foam is in contact with the bubble You may also have this issue due to the acute angle of the camera, reflecting off nearby surfaces or within it's metal casing, so reduce the angle. If it's still an issue replace for different type and use that one elsewhere.
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