sixwheeledbeast

It's all down to the machine really, as the price of the machine goes up often the p/p comes down and the amount of pages before service increases.

You can pick A4 Mono Brothers up for less but the p/p is more if you use genuine ink.

If you know what you have first then you can check with insurance IMO. With signalling already fitted it's likely to have been insured before with what's fitted, low chance that the risk has changed. Obviously it would be the opposite way round if it was a new installation.

I don't think anyone here can help you with this type of DIY tat.

"Upping" sounds like you have the type that is not compatible with your connection. You need to check the things as per my post above.

Checked for Firewall or NAT issues?

If he actually means Redcare STU it will need a BT (Openreach PSTN) line to connect to the Redcare exchange. Most likely it's some other GPRS/GSM based BT Redcare product (aka Agile or Secure) which if dual path would just need any PSTN line or Ethernet connection. Worth clarifying with there office what unit and ATS grade you are having reconnected and will be paying for. You will also want all the ARC details and update keyholder details paperwork which will likely be on it's way to you.

Either wait for it to stop, force it to stop or power it back up and try the code.

PE is recommended for ducts or any outside work, "proper alarm cable" is 7x0.2 stranded tinned copper per core. It's stranded for a reason. DEOL would be my preferred solution.

No. They do not support programmable outputs you get what you get. Which doesn't include any part set. It's just a basic domestic panel not designed for this type of interfacing. Really it would be best swapped for a Premier 24. The only messy workaround I can suggest would require to use some external logic and possibly engineers access. You would have to remove the strobe wire and trigger it with the bell trigger. Then switch on the option for Strobe on Full Set (it s on as default). You can now use the Armed plus the Strobe outputs into your own logic to tell if the system has been full or part armed. if [Armed && Strobe Pulse] == Full else if [Armed] == Part I doubt it's worth the messing TBH.

Try and set the alarm with the circuit open then close the circuit to set the alarm off? Maybe try the 3 other zones too, you will have to program them in like zone 1. If nothing is changing state then it maybe knackered, I can't think of any other reason. Something seems broken if the panel is showing Ready but the NO circuit is closed.

So does Zone 1 change state when you open and close the circuit?

All wireless has the potential of jamming. Two way intruder alarm equipment will have jamming detection so for example on Ricochet after a period of time the device will poll fail which if the alarm was armed would trigger the alarm. Ricochet is mesh but you may get the distance in one hop with it being open air. Alternatively they do external radio passives or use more contacts. With mesh the more devices the better. Proper tinned copper alarm cable would be fine for any normal powered device on a 100m run tho you should have PE stealth if outside, if it's just a reed switch type contact there would be no power anyway.

MDT are no longer. The panels model with matter regarding LED/LCD compatibility.

People put any old tat on ebay. It would be the only place to buy it, if you think about it that way. Bit like second hand Sterling keypads and iD biscuits for example...