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  1. Hi folks, Apologies for being a complete alarm noob, I'm looking for some advice regarding a couple of things. The buttons on the keypad decide to randomly stop working. So I was thinking I'd take the thing apart and clean the button contacts etc for a start. I'm assuming the tamper protection will go off as soon as I start opening/disconnecting wires. Is there a way to prevent this? So I can disconnect it, clean the internals, put it back and Bobs your aunty? The other thing is I need to replace the battery in the control panel, but I can't see an obvious way into it. Is there particular method to get the thing open? Will it also go berserk if I take the cover off? Any help would be greatly appreciated thank you.
  2. Hi all, Could I please get some wiring guidance on connecting a Honeywell AG6 external siren to a new Pyronix Enforcer panel (v10). I’ve made some assumptions on the siren terminals (left side) and just need to fill in the blank on the right for the Tamper Return: ST- = STRB R- = ??? SW- = BELL V+ = +12v V- = COM Many thanks! Rob
  3. Hello! The alarm that we have inherited comes up with a +BAT MIS 0001 error code, which won't let us set the alarm. All worked fine for the last 3 years, I've recently replaced the batteries on each of the 4 wireless points after one of them had died. The info I've managed to get on this is as follows: --- CPO38 Honeywell Grade 3 Class II -- Galaxy 2-12 Version 1.44 -- ADT ED8 - 7300 PC+ABSFR Hope someone could tell me what the error code means (tried googling without luck)... I've seen some posts refer to the 12V battery, which I assume is the block on the wall opposite the keypad, could it be that it is on its way? Many Thanks!
  4. Hi all. I best start of saying I'm a complete beginner when it comes to alarm systems as you'll probably guess. I have a Honeywell Flex 20 and a keypad and a couple of budget PIR motion sensors to test out wiring EOL before I buy more (better quality) and install. On the manual its shows 8 connections on the sensor. 2x Faults, 2xTamper, 2x Alarm 2 Power. But on most of the motion sensors I've seen they only have 6 connections. 2xTamper 2x Alarm 2x Power The manuals showing me where to wire the resistors including into the 2 fault connections but how do i wire the resistors if I only have the 6 connections? I watched a couple of YouTube videos and I'm thinking I may have it right but now I'm not sure how that wires to the board as again the manual shows the fault connections being wired to the board. I've attached a couple of pictures from the manual and one from the sensor I think it's wired right, you'll have to ignore the wire colours as I'm using old cat5 cable for testing. Also another part what should be easy is if I'm not using a zone on the alarm I'm not actually sure where to wire them. Sorry for the fact questions and thanks for any help.
  5. Hi. I've been testing my Galaxy flex 20 still and everything seem to be working fine now and arms/disarms fine etc. Can I edit what is displayed on the keypad banner at the moment it's just showing the model name and number. And also when the alarm is armed is there a way of having it display on the keypad that it's armed ? I've looked through the manual but can't see any mention. Cheers
  6. Hi guys. I'm wondering if any of you know where I can get the USB drivers for Windows 7 so I can connect to my Honeywell galaxy Fx20. I've plugged it in and it shows searching for "FX panel" drivers then comes back none found and googling keeps showing Samsung galaxy phones Thanks for any help.
  7. Hello, I'm just wondering about the amount of hardware you can add to a GD-C048 with the available address line. The instructions say I can have 8 keypads (3 prox), 4 RIOs and 4 RF RIOs It seems you can add lots of stuff but much of it is limited by the rotary address switches and there appears to be some overlap. Is a keypad on address 2 the same as a RIO on address 2? Basically, I have 3 keypads, 0,1 and 2, along with 3 RIOs and 1 RF RIO which must take addresses 2-5 which means, if they work as the same address, then one must overlap with a keypad, also the RF RIO tried to take up 2 bunches of addresses and in fact keeps appearing as 102x and 103x no matter what I set its switch to be, and why is there a gap between 5-B which I can't seem to use. In short, do I need a 96 or above to run 1xTC(prox), 1xMK7(prox), 1xMK8(prox), 3xRIO, 1xRF RIO? It all gets a bit confusing Cheers, Gordon.
  8. Hi Gents, i have learned a lot from the forum and want to thank you, but I am also after your help for something I cannot find the answer to. I have a Honeywell Flex 20 and it has 2 RF Portals attached, they are both blinking to indicate that they are communicating with the bus, if I pull the tamper link they both pop up on the keypad with their correct addresses. However, I am only seeing the range of addresses for 1 of the portals when I try to connect wireless devices... any ideas? Thank you in advance. Neil
  9. Hi, I am attempting to install a Honeywell Galaxy G2-20 System. Having a background in electronic engineering (a degree many years ago), I thought that I may be able to install the system myself. I have used the G2-20 with the RF Portal and several wireless detectors (3 x PIR's, 4 x door contacts), controlled through a Mk7 Keypad. I have powered the main panel, the RF Portal and mounted all the detectors. I have then assigned all the wireless detectors and they all have a unique address. My issue is that upon assigning these contacts, then attempting to come out of engineer mode the system fails the tamper checks. However, the zones that have the detectors have no issues, it is the zones that I not assigned any detectors to all show TAMPER (for reference these are zones 1014-1018). If someone could help me by explain how what I have done incorrectly / not done in order to clear this issue I would be very grateful. Is there a way to 'permanently omit' these zones? Regards, James
  10. Hello all, hoping someone can help me out. I fitted a Honeywell G4 to my house when I had it to first fix an was easy enough everything's fine. My mother then decided she wanted the same as her old wickes alarm hasn't worked for years, changed batteries etc. So I started wiring the new sensors in and there is a single wire to each sensor, no daisy chaining of tamper or 12v lines. However in the control panel which is integrated into the main box there are only two 6 core cables coming in and there appears to be a single tamper wire and a single wire for each zone on one cable then the 12v, bell and aux speaker on a second wire, see picture below How do I wire this to the accents panel which is obviously set up to take a six core for each sensor? Any ideas
  11. Hi Guys, We currently have a 10 year old, wired, Nexus 8 intruder alarm. Intending to change it and got a quote from a company for £1000. Anyway...seen this Galaxy G2-20 wireless pack online and it seemed good value for money. Questions: 1. Would it be easy enough to self install/replace the existing one with? 2. I assume (from looking at online manual) that the only wiring that would be involved would be between the keypad, control panel and RF portal? 3. How would I stop the bell box from going off outside if I was to change the panel about? Appreciate the tips guys.
  12. Good morning, I've assembled the parts of the Galaxy Flex 20 I got the day before yesterday and am having trouble with the keypad. When powering up the system, it beeps and shows a bunch of "*****" on the lcd. I've connected the keypad to the PCB using Cat5, to the green terminal block on the right hand side of the PCB, with single strands to each terminal and I've put a 680Ohm resistor on the AB terminals of the keypad ( (please see attached picture) I've used a multi meter to double check the wires are OK. Voltage on the keypad between + and - is 13V. The keypad address initially I set to B, and then learned only 0-7 are allowed, so I put it back to '0' (after powering off the system) Yesterday evening I talked to the guy who sold it to me and he said I made the right connections. I leave the cover open, but put a tape on the tamper switch to keep it closed I've read this earlier post and answers: So I'm stuck and would appreciate any feedback. Cheers, Bram
  13. Hey all, just in the process of rejigging the alarm, and it's been a while since I've tinkered with the wired stuff... I want to switch a single PIR for a Shock on my G2-20... Forgetting the 'quality' of the wiring, how would this transplant over to the Viper? And resister location?? Thanks in advance!
  14. Hi everyone, I've searched and searched for some info and you are my last hope! I'm not an installer but was roped in to replacing an alarm system for a friend after he was burgled and it hadn't activated, no surprise once I started removing it but that's not why I'm asking for help. I have successfully wired several systems previously but strictly on a non commercial or professional basis. I have installed a Honeywell Accenta G4 8 way panel, LCD RKP, 7 Pyronix dual tech PIRs, 2 x Deltabell Plus sounders, internal sounder & GSm Dialer all hardwired and all performing perfectly. I now have to add 3 x wireless Pyronix PIRs via a Pyronix UR2-WE expander on the last remaining spare zone. Can't hardwire these zones as there is no way through otherwise i'd daisy chain 3 onto 1 zone. So the problem I have is either with the Pyronix UR2 installation instructions or with my brain! I've looked at the comic strip style manual for days now and still it makes no sense to me. 12+ & 0v are fine but it shows at least 6 other connections into the control panel from the UR2, arm, disarm, output a & b, fault output wiring, Can anyone tell me in simple terms which terminals in the G4 these should be connected into and why the manual is giving options for N/O & N/C on output & fault wiring? It's no bother to run another 2 cores between the panel & UR2 if I need all 8. I need to get this thing complete so I can move on to his CCTV system with 7 cameras!!! Many thanks Jon
  15. HI, I wonder if anybody knows how to configure a Galaxy Flex Panel so I can operate the Outputs via the GX App ? I wonder if I can interface with central heating.. Thanks, Juan
  16. HI Guys, I wonder if anyone can confirm whether a Honeywell Pro32 is a direct replacement for a Pro22r2 2 reader module. I have a faulty Pro22r2 module connected to a Pro2200, with other Pro22r2 boards connected. So the question is whether the Pro32 reader board can be put in place of a Pro22r2 in this scenario. Regards, Kev
  17. Hi Guys, I currently have a 6 year old, wired, Nexus 8 intruder alarm. The PIR in our kitchen was damaged by painters the other day so I am going to have to replace it. My wife's friend works for an intruder alarm company and gave her a Honeywell DT7550UK2 Dual Tec sensor. Was just wondering how I should wire it in? I have attached a photo of the current sensor PCB and the new dual-tech one. All help appreciate guys. Best Wishes, Matthew Attached is a photo of the new sensor!
  18. Hi all, I was hoping someone would be kind enough to help me with a small issue I am experiencing. I have recently installed and configured a new Honeywell G2-44+ alarm within my property and all is working well apart from the fact I have been unable to configure the backlight on the keypads. Currently the keypads (Mk7 RKPs) all have their backlight set to permanently on. I would like to be able to set the backlight to only come on in the event of a button press or other event such as entry/exit/alarm. I believe you are able to configure the backlight using "Menu 58" on the Galaxy range, however this menu option doesn't appear to exist for me. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated. Regards, eightball.
  19. Had a false alarm last night 1am while asleep. All sirens blaring. SMS came through saying sunroom DT. Being a dual-tec I was suspicious of a false alarm and the adrenaline was pumping when I went down to check it out... I was confronted by a huge moth flapping about in the sunroom that had triggered the DT7550. Terminated the moth, but it took me ages to get back to sleep after that If only we had a sensor that could accurately differentiate between humans and anything else. Picking up on brainwaves or the like. I suppose most amateur criminals don't have much going on in that area though!
  20. After removing an old PIR from an Accenta G4, I carelessly left the 13v and 0v wires touching each other for a day or so. I only noticed when I later did a walk test, and all the zones with powered sensors (PIRs, Vipers) were showing as open. I've now separated them, but I still don't seem to be getting the 13v supply to the powered sensors. From the manual, it looks like there are fuses protecting the battery, speaker, siren/strobe and RKP supplies. There's no mention of the sensor suppky being fused, and the 4 fuses on the board look intact. I've ordered some replacement fuses, more out of hope than really believing that will fix it. Does anyone know what might be the problem or solution? Have I just fried that 13v supply? Thanks
  21. Hi bit of a noobie to alarms but have a good general understanding. I've purchased and installed a Galaxy Flex 20 panel with the RF portal, PIR's are all wired, shock and door sensors run over RF. I have two problems, one of the PIR's constantly keeps triggering the alarm randomly when set, it's located in the living room facing the rear french doors, after speaking to some people they believe the sensor is faulty. Could it be this or the sensitivity, I have no pets. Second issue is that I realised after buying and installing it, the system is designed to dial out to monitoring centres etc. What I want is the system to dial my or my wife's mobile or the ability for it to send a text with some details in it. Ideally any remote software to be able to rest the alarm or re-arm would be great, Honeywell market all these things but it seems more challenging to find any details on how this is achieved. I would like to be able to use what I've got or add some sort of module that would allow me to achieve the above. I wish I purchased a comfort system now, has so many more options. Worst case scenario would be to pay for a monitoring service that is reliable and doesn't cost the earth. Any help would be appreciated on this. Thanks
  22. Are these still available from Honeywell? I have tried there customer support but no answer unfortunately.. If anyone can lead me to contact details that would be really handy
  23. Hello I really need some advice about a burglar alarm. I would like to purchase a burglar alarm and my sparky friend to install it for me. I have been researching different types and one that I came across that is very highly recommended is the Honeywell Galaxy range. I am looking at the Flex 20 which even though seems to be in the low end of Galaxy range, I think it would be more than adequate for my 3 bed semi. I like the concept of the system of how easily expandable it is, should I wish to add features to it at a later date. Additionally, I still have the cables in place from an old Accenta alarm so the Galaxy will have wired sensors/security lights connected to it, as well as a keypad. I have emailed Honeywell for advice but have not had a response so am turning to this forum as I need to purchase a system soon so I can continue my housing project. Please can you answer my questions? - One thing I definitely want is a speech (and text if possible) dialler. With the Galaxy Flex 20 does this come integrated? (I cannot see any other Honeywell speech diallers on the net other than the 'informa') or is there a specific module that I would need to purchase in addition to the alarm panel to get a speech dialler? - This is probably a bit of a random question...I like the idea of the PIR camera, how do these work please? Is there special software I would need to purchase for a PC or smart phone to see whats happening in the property? Does it pick up audio from the camera too? Can the footage be recorded from this? - So I was thinking to set up a system as follows: Galaxy Flex 20 control panel, keypad, 4 phobs for different members of the family, 3 PIR camera sensors, speech dialler module(if one is required separately? unless it is integrated) - Where would the best and cheapest place be to buy this from online? - Does this sound like a good setup? I have recently renovated my property in a big and high quality way so I believe my hard work deserves a decent burglar alarm system to protect it. If I can monitor it then even better. Thanks for your advice and your time. Paul
  24. Hi, I have a couple of questions in relation to a Galaxy 16+ which I cannot find using the search tool. (perhaps as I am not sure of the exact terminology to use!) I wondered if someone might be kind enough to confirm a couple of things for me. Experience to date: So far over time I have installed three different alarm systems at home and for a mate in his shed. So I have some experience of the very basics of installing an alarm and programming it and getting it to work fault free. JSB Firedex fire alarm Honeywell Accenta Mini Gen4 Scantronic 9100 So given this I thought I would progress to a Galaxy 16+ for the garage. I got a panel and keypad from THAT auction website. I have managed to get an Engineer manual and have managed to cold restore / reset the panel, but have a couple of questions before going forward. 1.) Does all the zone equipment that I want to fit have to have end of line resistors in it? Does this mean I need to buy very specific senors, contacts etc. ( I used EOL resistors with the JSB fire alarm but my first experience of them in an intruder alarm. 2.) Do I need to have resistors in unused zones or can they just stay empty / unbridged? 3.) Does the Texecom speech dialer work with these would anyone know? Any help much appriciated. Ben.
  25. Can anyone explain an error that has appeared a few times on my Honeywell Galaxy 2 system? When I tried to set the alarm, on leaving, an error appeared saying 'Kitchen 1004 Open'. This relates to a wireless PIR. On one occasion I waited for 5 minutes and the error had disappeared when I came to try setting the alarm again. On another occasion, I waited for 2 minutes for the wireless PIR to reset itself (battery saving feature) but when I tried to set the alarm again, I got the same error. However, I waited another 2 minutes, then walked into the kitchen - hence tripping the PIR, then when I came to set the alarm again, it worked OK. This has happened 4 times within 2 years, so not a major problem, but I'd like to understand what's happening. Thanks for any suggestions.
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