GalaxyGuy

If both are marked T, then either take the white back to 0v in the panel too, or just remove the white wire and place a wire link from that 'T' connection in the siren to the black 0v in the siren.

You've not shown the white wire in your image, so I cannot tell you.

This is the wiring on a Dimension with default programming for outputs 1001 (bell) and 1002 (strobe)

No special access with the ADT version. Check that remote access is enabled for the device (serial/Ethernet/Etc) in menu 56 and set to any time with direct access. If the RSS password has been set, the message should be invalid RSS password.

You really need to open the external siren to note the connections. No resistors are required, so it's likely that your guess at the wiring isn't correct.

Your diagram is fine. There's only one common 0v on the galaxy, as per all Galaxy, so your link in the detector is fine. Detectors these days are very low current, so there is seldom any need to double up power cores.

The outputs will sink to 0v when the transistors are switched on. Depending on the collector pull up, they may float or pull up when the output is off. So, you need to connect one side of the relay to the output and the other side of the relay to +12v. What part number of relay are you using? It may be that the output cannot drive them. Sometimes best to use an opto isolated type, as then no issues with back EMF. It may be easier to just use Honeywell's relay board as an intermediate to switch your bigger relays. I do this to fire bigger 12v contactors on bus bars.

Not without disabling tones. Normally for domestic, I set the speaker *99 to Strobe or something like that and then adjust the keypad speaker levels to suit. I did send Honeywell a list of feature requests to make the Galaxy panels more flexible, but even though I support over 1k Galaxy systems, they don't seem to be interested. The sort of attitude that results in migration to other products.

The 4 pin headers just connect to the RS485 bus and power. 12v, 0v, A, B. Same as the screw terminals.

You can also do things like set the output to pulse for N seconds to keep the light on for an interval when the door is opened. I also use a level 1 guard code as an input to the link. This allows you to select a code that is entered to switch the lights on. If you're remote and viewing via CCTV, you can then enter the code video a the Virtualkeypad to switch the lights on. I use this same mechanism to open the garage door.

Program a link with the input as the final zone you want. Then link destination to the first available link. Ie. Link A. After that, change the output you want to link A and set as reflex. The output will trigger when the final zone is open.

If you think the adapter is ok, try power cycling the panel with the lead disconnected, then try connecting.

Do you only have one com port on the system. Ie. When you open the Comms manager in the system tray, then select the hammer icon, how many com ports show? The error you are seeing is more likely a driver error, as when the connection is made and downloader id or site id are incorrect, you get a message relating to downloader or site id.

Agree. No issues with the Flex V3.50 firmware. Set for silent comm's to ensure no panel side error reports for broadband issues. Not everyone likes the SMPS (including me), but energy efficiency is more important going forwards. Honeywell push notification is limited, but is free, so it's up to you. At least there are other choices with SelfMon if you want additional SMS, E-mail and hourly path checks.