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Found 4 results

  1. My sister has a veritas 8c, the alarm will not set.Normally my sister presses full and goes out the alarm is set.On entry she inputs her code and the alarm is off.At present the alarm will not set and when trying to set the alarm red lights 6,7,8 illuminate.It omits constant beeping.I have counted the beeps 8,slight pause then the same 8 beeps and so on, always 8 beeps. Can somebody help please.
  2. A bit of a story, but trying to provide full background info. My Veritas 8 system has performed well since it was installed new about 5 years ago. It was then 'upset' by a power cut a few months ago. I replaced the main battery, and all seemed fine for a while until it was 'upset' again by another power cut. My attempts to reset it again left me with a flashing 'set' light but it functioned well in all other respects for a while until it started to chime every minute. This served to nag me into fitting a new sounder battery. However, the flashing/chiming symptoms remained. I discovered that although no zones were set to chime I could silence the chiming issue by one simple press of the chime button on the remote keypad - but it would revert to chiming again each time the system was 'unset'. Yesterday I removed power, disconnected the system battery, returned power, reconnected the battery (in that order, because I had read that on a forum). The periodic chiming (at one minute intervals) had ceased but I was left with the flashing set light which I believe indicates a battery/charging issue. THEN, reading through the manual again I saw that it said at 3.7: Power should always be connected in the following order: Connect the red battery lead to the positive terminal of the battery and then connect the black battery lead to the negative terminal. Connect the AC mains. So I did exactly that. And I am back to flashing and chiming. I notice too that the power LED on the main panel is flashing, (the panel is above door height in a cupboard, so hard to see) but there has to be power or the battery would have gone flat ages ago - and anyway, nothing would work, would it? If fuse F5 has gone, (I haven't checked it) could the panel still function and maintain charge? There has to be a simple solution to this. Do I need to try reverting to factory default settings? I think the default engineer and boss codes are unchanged, but is there a simple way to check that without changing anything?
  3. After removing an old PIR from an Accenta G4, I carelessly left the 13v and 0v wires touching each other for a day or so. I only noticed when I later did a walk test, and all the zones with powered sensors (PIRs, Vipers) were showing as open. I've now separated them, but I still don't seem to be getting the 13v supply to the powered sensors. From the manual, it looks like there are fuses protecting the battery, speaker, siren/strobe and RKP supplies. There's no mention of the sensor suppky being fused, and the 4 fuses on the board look intact. I've ordered some replacement fuses, more out of hope than really believing that will fix it. Does anyone know what might be the problem or solution? Have I just fried that 13v supply? Thanks
  4. Hi All Hope all is well. I hope this is not a stupid question. I thank you in advance. I've purchased a Honeywell galaxy ethernet module. I have a query in relation to powering down the panel prior to installing it. When i have put the panel into engineers mode, and disconnect the fused spur, i will have to remove the backup battery power also. Will the external bellbox sound, when the backup battery power is removed? Appreciate your reply. Great forum. Regards Zemme
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