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!!..DIY Installers..!!

A place for queries from those DIY alarm, cctv, access control and fire installers.
Specify all your equipment when posting to get a more reliable diagnostic response.

  1. Started by dwdave,

    It is beneficial for me to place a sounder on both the front and rear aspects of my install. On the front, I have a hipped roof with a gable end. Piece of cake to mount and wire. On the back, not so easy. Brick and block cavity wall leading up to the edge of the roof. Mounting isn't the problem I foresee, however wiring to it will be. How would this usually be completed. Thanks

  2. Started by dwdave,

    Once complete I intent to use my alarm day and night. Complete set for when away from home and part set for perimeter / ground floor at night. I will also have one zone that I want to be set all the time. It will cover a safe. But it will need to be disarmed for authorised entry. A 24hr zone function on the galaxy can't be disarmed. Probably on a contact / shock. Is this where groups come in?

    • 12 replies
    • 2.2k views
  3. Started by ensecurity,

    Evening all, I've recently changed the lounge and conservatory door contacts to Viper GL shocks, however I don't like the behaviour of the LED. It flashes when normal and goes off when the detector is activated. Is there a way to stop that behaviour? I'd only want the LED to come on when the detector is activated. I have 8 core cable running to each Viper. Thanks

    • 2 replies
    • 1.5k views
  4. Hi, I've been working on learning and installing a galaxy flex 50 in my new house. I've got most things working fine, including a RIO, RF portal, Ethernet module, 2 keypads and a bunch of detectors both wired and wireless (wireless for the couple of rooms I forgot to run cables into before sheeting the walls!). I've just got a small issue with the external sounder: Bell box - using the onboard outputs on the main panel connected to a Honeywell AG8 as follows: panel sounder +12v + 0v - T TR- OP1 S- OP2 ST- I was under the impression that when in engineer mode the sounder should not be set off by the tamper…

    • 6 replies
    • 3.6k views
  5. Started by Shanemaldwyn,

    Has anyone used the comwifi yet? Curious on whats its like?

  6. Started by dwdave,

    Ask I correct in thinking that the galaxy classic panel can not accept a wireless rio?

    • 7 replies
    • 1.5k views
  7. Started by leo01,

    Hi, I have an ADT alarm which is a galaxy g2. I want to test the panic alarm. How do I go about doing this? I can see where I can do a waking test to check the sensors all work. Where can it put it in a mode to test the panic alarm?

    • 7 replies
    • 2.5k views
  8. Started by leo01,

    Hi, I have taken the cover off the panel for my ADT alarm. I put it in engineering mode first. Now I put the cover back on and it says tampers lid. It wont come out of engineering mode. Is there something i need to do to the lid to get re-set the tamper? ,

    • 5 replies
    • 3.8k views
  9. Started by sean5302,

    Hi folks I've joined the Forum to see whether you might help. My house is 14 years old and has an existing Scantronic 9448ES alarm with 1-year-old Pyronix Belle box and several original Pyronix wired PIRs plus 2 door contacts. A zone (dining room) shows the fault LED on trying to set the alarm. This causes the alarm to activate full-on if I try to set it in this state. The PIR looks fine. The warning light comes on if I step in front of it. It looks clean. If I remove the PIR from circuit, will the tamper circuit trigger? I'd like to swap it with another in the house to see if the fault travels. I phoned the alarm installer, but he wants £200 to come out a…

    • 44 replies
    • 7.1k views
  10. I put my meter on the tails of the galaxy main board battery charger and it returned 13.75v. On the smart psu it showed nothing. The fuse had blown. Replaced and checked fuse (middle one) but the tails on the smart psu still return nill voltage. All three fuses show good continuity. Any ideas.

    • 15 replies
    • 3.2k views
  11. Started by dwdave,

    Im fitting my Pyronix DT PIR's which (in my old house, not installed by me) didnt use the built in EOL resistors but had them all in the panel. I want to make this one a bit neater and somewhat more "proper job". Im guessing the clue is in the title - END of Line - that the resistors need to be within the housing of the detector and not within the panel. I need 1k closed and 2k open - i can get the first 1k from the built in resistors, but my issue now is physically, how would I fit the second 1k resistor into this space... and does the tamper work on the same 1k/2k principle ?

  12. Started by RedAmberGreen,

    Hi Everyone, Any views on having 'Silent 1st Alarm' enabled with full bells if a second input is set off within 30min to 60min? I have a Pyronix Enforce installed with 1 door contact, 4 PIRs and 4 Shock Sensors (shocks are set for double knock over a 10 second period). We use the alarm in 2 different ways; - Area A is full set and full alarm (I'm considering Silent 1st Alarm only on Area A) - Area B is used for a 'perimeter' alarm using door contact and Shock Sensors which the wife typically uses during the day or later in the night when I am not at home - this only triggers the sounder on the keypad. Area A is always used when we leave the house and at…

    • 20 replies
    • 3.7k views
  13. I've got an alarm on my house (installed by previous owners) that I've just ignored up until we got a power cut last night at 2am. You guessed it, as soon as the power went off the alarm started (and went on for over an hour until the power came back on, neighbours must love me...). The keypad was completely dead when the power was out. Anyway it's a eurosec CP8L and a Texcecom Odyssey 3E. I've spent the day researching how to stop it happening again and it seems likely I just need to replace the battery in the control panel. It was last replaced in 2009 according to the receipt from the previous owner. My question is, as I don't have the engineering code (at leas…

  14. Started by jkno,

    I was using Arming Mode: Timed Exit. Yesterday I finally got round to adding the door contact to the main entrance and re-reprogrammed the alarm to Arming Mode: Entry/Exit. My issue comes down to the part 1 omit (night time/sleep). The alarm sets fine but when I walk downstairs the Hallway PIR (Zone 2) activates and the sounders goes off. My confusion is that I want the alarm to go off if Zone 2 is triggered without the entry/exit being active in all states but a part set which seems reasonable and looks possible from the manual but I'm sure I've got my config wrong. Zone 1 - Area A - Front Door (Contact) - Entry/Exit 1 Zone 2 - Area A - Hallway (PIR) -…

  15. Started by enasecurity,

    I recently swapped out my old alarm panel and installed a premier 88(not elite), I aquired it from a friend who was moving house. The firmware on the panel is only v3.3, so I need to get this updated. it doesn't look like 3.3 has a bell on confirm option, but v10 does. Until I get hold of a flasher, can anyone tell me if there is a way to set the bellbox sounder up as confirmed alarm?

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