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bornstubborn

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  1. schoolboy error, I could get to my router, but hadn't realised my router couldn't get out, hence no comms with selfmon and the resulting error. fixed this and error has cleared. thanks everyone! out of interest, what is the process to restart the panel? Does exiting engineer mode do this, or is there another way of rebooting the system?
  2. Hi, thanks for the reply, no, same router, subnet and gw. I can ping the Ethernet module from the router. I was actually just ripping everything out of my cabling cabinet and redoing it all neatly! It meant the panel was offline for several hours. with hindsight I should have disabled the arc settings before hand. Thanks
  3. Hi, I've got a galaxy flex 50 I installed myself which has been running fine for a few months, linked to selfmon and happily sending event alerts by email - using the Honeywell Ethernet module. I was making some changes to my Internet configuration and had the panel disconnected for the internet for a period of time. I've since got it reconnected and am able to connect from to the panel over Ethernet, however I cant seem to clear the fault from when it couldn't connect out. The panel displays "system fault reset required". I can enter mgr mode and see 3 faults - comm fail arc, comm fail rec1, +hb fail comm 4. I can press ent to continue, then enter engineer mode, but cant find how to reset these faults. exiting engineer mode runs through the normal checks but the faults persist. can anyone help? thanks
  4. Thanks for the replies, I had assumed that was how to do it, but then I thought I saw a post on here somewhere referring to engineering mode disabling the tamper and allowing you to work on the bell without setting it off! I guess it must just be some panels/sounders/configurations? Am I right in saying that once I remove the test link on the sounder to activate the onboard battery, the sounder will go off in the event of a power-cut and the panel battery becoming depleted? On a related note, any issues with putting the alarm supply on a UPS? I'll have one for the server room anyway. It's never a good idea to run a UPS from a UPS, so just wanted to check no issues with a panel/battery being supplied by a UPS. Thanks.
  5. Hi, I've been working on learning and installing a galaxy flex 50 in my new house. I've got most things working fine, including a RIO, RF portal, Ethernet module, 2 keypads and a bunch of detectors both wired and wireless (wireless for the couple of rooms I forgot to run cables into before sheeting the walls!). I've just got a small issue with the external sounder: Bell box - using the onboard outputs on the main panel connected to a Honeywell AG8 as follows: panel sounder +12v + 0v - T TR- OP1 S- OP2 ST- I was under the impression that when in engineer mode the sounder should not be set off by the tamper? I installed the box outside, but hadn't fitted the tamper screw and when connecting to the panel, despite being in engineering mode, as soon as I connected the +12v the sounder went off. Fitted the tamper screw to the box and then connected and it's fine. I can run a bell test or strobe test from the keypad and they work as expected. I've not yet moved the link on the sounder from test - battery - I assume this just connects the internal battery so allows it to sound if the supply from the panel is cut. The question is, how do I prevent the sounder from triggering when I have to open the box to move the link. Have I wired it correctly or is there something to change on the tamper configuration on the panel? Also, we will be without power for a most of a day soon while the main distribution board is fitted - how long will the standard battery hold up a galaxy flex 50, and what happens once it runs down - will the sounder see the loss of even battery supply as a tamper and be activated with it's onboard battery? Thanks in advance R
  6. Thanks for all the advice so far, you guys are spot on regarding the time, part of me thinks this would be a nice project (I've got an electronics, pbx and IT background), however, I should really be spending time putting up gyproc, installing electrics and drains and such... The more i think about it, the more I'm coming round to the idea of getting a professional install - I've already spent too much time reading stuff! Due to the size of the house, building control have mandated that for a Grade B Category LD2 fire detection and alarm system to be installed in accordance with BS5839-6:2004, so I need to get this designed as well. Do such things exist combined with intruder alarms or will this require a completely separate system? AlarmProtection - I'll give you a call tomorrow - if I call the main number is there anyone specific to ask for? Thanks Robert
  7. Hi, I'm at the first fix stage of my self build and need to get an alarm system organised. I've already run cables for numerous detectors back to a central point and now need to decide on the system and whether I install myself or not. I've narrowed it down to: Honeywell Galaxy - easily available and looks relatively simple to setup DSC PC1832 powerseries - as this is supported for integration into the home automation system i'm looking at deploying (myself) I've got a few questions: 1) Does anyone have any comments on either system and whether a self install is a good idea? 2) Monitoring - I do want to get the system monitored - will companies take these on if not installed by them? I assume the galaxy might be easier to find someone to monitor as it looks to be much more common? 3) If self install isn't a good idea, can anyone recommend alarm companies in central Scotland that can provide monitoring and/or potentially install/maintenance and would be willing to have me run the wiring / use the wiring I've installed? 4) I will need a professionaly designed fire alarm system for the property - again, I'd like to run all the wiring to keep down cost, and ideally have one supplier to do both intruder and fire - any recommendations? Thanks in advance.
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