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When performing a walk test on my veritas r8, zones 1,2,3 and 4 are already lit when I have not entered the zones. Can anyone tell me what this means? Zones 5 and 6 illuminate when walking into the zone. Please help.

I have an //.National Installer.// Galaxy 8 which works fine - except the amount of money that they want from me to buy it from them - £650!!! so, as i work in IT and can build computer systems i would guess? it can't be too difficult to replace the Galaxy8 with another panel? i would leave the existing PIR's and bell box as is. I'd like the new system to be setup via a computer - rather than trying to setup zones on a key panel. would also like it connected to a computer/home network for logs/reports. also want it to txt me when the alarm is set/unset/goes off don't want the cheapest B&Q special or similar so am prepared to pay for a good solution. any sugges…

When wiring up a Texacom Veritas R8 can I wire a PIR and a door contact from the same room into the same zone? Does this have to be wired in paralell?

Hi, I have a Scantronic 9800+ Panel and 9827 Keypad. I have come across a 9600 LCD Keypad. Can this replace the 9827 Keypad and it's become worn and old?

I am making the connections in my Texacom Veritas 8 panel. I just need some clarification on the instructions. From what I understand the red and black (power) wires from each zone dectector are connected to the relevant zone connection. The yellow and blue wires from each zone are wired in series to a connection block. (the first and last wire being connected to the tamper zone panel. (zone1 yellow, zone 1 blue:zone 2 yellow etc etc). The white and green wires from the final wired zone are then wired to the Aux power input on the panel. Is this correct? I assume if I only have six zones the system still works in the same way? Can anyone explain how it actually works.…

After I have got my system up and running (Texecom Veritas 8) and programmed (at the weekend in the hours of daylight!!) would it be a good idea to put it on soak test as described in the handbook? From what I can gather the alarm will not activate (no audible alarm) if any problems are found. How long should a soak test be carried out for to make sure a system is functioning ok. I am going away on vacation in 2.5 weeks time and would like to go away in the knowledge that all is well with my system. Any help gratefully appreciated.

Can you tell me the difference between part set and full set on a Texecom Veritas R8? Is part set only setting specific zones?? It is a basic question but not very clear. Could someone also tell me if the system has an internal speaker as standard or to hear audible entry/exit tones do you need a separate speaker? If the system does make sound, is this omitted from the panel or the keypad or both? Thanks

This is my first post so before I go any further, "Hi all". Great site with lots of useful help and advice. My reason for posting is that I'm looking at installing a moderately priced security system that's going to be reliable and durable. My first thoughts were to buy an off-the-shelf system (from the likes of Screwfix or B & Q) but have moved away from that as I want decent PIRs (dual tech) and a smarter looking bell-box (that's not white). Trying to put my own system together from individual components has made me realise just how much I don't know about how a modern domestic security system works. Here are some examples of my ignorance: As I live in a bungalo…

I have been lurking in your group. A great place to find out what's availiable and sound sensible advice. I am replacing my 20 year old control box because the key switch is intermittently jamming - and getting worse by the day. I originally installed the system and it works well. The only false alarms we had were in the early days of mobile phones. We used to charge our phones under the kitchen PIR - when the phones were polled, the PIR set off the system! I now have a Veritas Excel on my dining room table and am slowly setting it up prior to the grand changeover! I originally ran the Veritas control box on battery only, and noticed the time display lost time. I thoug…

Hello, When should you replace pir's? Thankyou djrock

Can anyone advise me how to wire these into the control panel? I can e-mail the instruction guides for the detectors or the panel itself, which is a Premier 24. While the likes of the Pyronix ME 12 PIRs take 4K7 resistors, these ones don't seem to...and their instuctions don't say you use any resistors (but my panel's instruction guide says to use them in the zones as EOL (End Of Line) resistors). As this is the DIY forum, please help me in very basic terminology i.e. white wire to +ve, green to -ve etc. Alan

Don't know how many of you remember me but I was round here quite a bit around march-april time asking stupid questions about alarm installation. Well things got very hectic at work so progress on the DIY front all but stopped. Today I finally switched on my alarm system, programmed the main program and 2 part programs and even got my dialler to work. I would just like to express my extreme gratitude to all those that helped me in my quest to install my first alarm system. Flush door contacts, garage door contact, pir's upstairs and down, 2 remote keypads, PA buttons, seperate PSU for additional bellbox, integrating fire alarms, speaker and dialler. Without the exper…

hi all.im new around here but i was hoping i may get some help.i have just moved into a new unit,there was an alram sat on the wall minding its own buissness until i thought,,,"mmm wont that be better if the alarm worked" so i asked the landlord whats the code was...no idea he says they must have changed it. it s in day mode so just open it up and reset it,he says so i did bloody thing would be still ringing if i hafdnt taken the wire out of the bell from the battery. the alram is an optim ade compact,i have looked at the usermanual and it is pointing me in the direction of the nvm.now i spoke to a mate and he says.its the chip with 8 legs.you need to do summat with …

Is the ADE Simple Set RKP suitable for use with an Accenta 6 control box? I've downloaded a PDF from a website although it doesn't specfically mention an Accenta 6 it does show a G3 which is similar i.e control box with 1 RKP which I have. I'm not going to exceed the 1A max load by adding this as I had a quick count up and am pulling about 475mA in total. Regards Tim Whitchurch

I've decided to change our rusty old bell box for a Vortex external sounder/strobe made by Lynteck. the old bell [securitech]was wired as follows with 4 core cable as follows: Black as -ve Red as +ve Yellow as S Blue as R These were the marks on the little PCB in the old bell housing I've connected the Vortex sounder as follows: Black to Hold- Red to Hold+ Yellow to TG- Blue to RETURN I've set the tamper jumper in the Vortex to External [sounder can only be triggered from control panel, not from it's internal tamper switch] Upon applying power the sounder goes to a few seconds, as I've set the cut off time to the minimum The control panel sounds etc, I put …