!!..DIY Installers..!!

Hi there, I moved into this house about 5 years ago. It has an ADE Accenta 8 mini panel. We have a cat . To begin with we had several false alarms and I replaced a number of PIRs with pet immune sensors (K940s). In 4 years since, maybe only 1 or 2 false alarms, and those not necessarily down to moggie... For a number of reasons (hooking up garage, new double glazing, redecorating etc) I am upgrading. I have pretty much decided on a Texecom Premier panel with Odyssey sounder plus some other bits. The house is largely wired with 6 core cable and from what I can determine the PIRs are in reasonably good positions, although I may re-position a couple. I am reasonably compe…

Hello, Does anybody know anywhere online (excluding ebay) you can get alarm system parts? Trade or non trade. Thankyou djrock

I want to add a speech dialler to a intellisense 800L which I have recently installed. In an ideal world I would run the cable from the downstairs hall sraight up the outside wall into the loft through a conduit(preferbly plastic) which would be partially hidden as it would be up a sideway next to a drain pipe. How far do your "average" burglars go into a full recon,or is it a "quick their out" situation. I wouldn't say it was impossible to run it inside but just a complete nightmare. Not be an alarm engineer I didn't know the complications if they got to the cable. Just to add yet more background I live in a resedential,three bed semi detached street so I don't thin…

Guided by a local alarm retailer,I hastily bought an intellisense 800L from them due to some local attempted breakins. It had the panel, 4 pirs, 2 bells,2 door contacts ,cable, clips etc. Now I paid just over £200 pound for the system and I known I could have got it cheaper since stumbling across this website and some linked wholesalers. Now the price is not such an issue as the engineer in the shop did give some good advice regarding connecting up etc,which i might have struggled with,but going back to the subject would i of been a lot better with say a texecom(which it seems i could get for roughly the same price on the internet) or is the intellisense a reasonable D…

Now I'm a pretty diplomatic person, always try and get on with everyone but this guy about 5 doors down comes to me today complaining that my alarm has been going off. I've had this installation for 4 years and it's been perfect and well maintained(I did it..it has to be ). I told him that a tamper alarm would have come up with on the panel and the sounder strobe would have carried on flashing until I reset the alarm if that were the case. He claimed that it was definitely not from the houses to the left or right of me so had to be mine. His wife was even worse. Anyway, turns out it was another house alarm a few doors down and it was going off today as well. I went strai…

Looking for some advice and reassurance. I am in the process of wiring up a Scantronic 9651 panel and am looking for some reasurance on the physical wiring of a fully supervised loop. I fully understand the concept of a FSL and the use of the 4k7 ohm and 2k2 ohm resistors to differentiate between an alarm condition and a tamper condition. In terms of the physical connections i understand the 4K7 resistor is connected in parralel across the alarm contacts, is there any preference as to whether this is done at the sensor or at the panel connection? Given that you are trying to make a complete series circuit out of the alarm contact and the tamper contact I would therefore…

Trying to install a 9751 I've got the panel to work and and when I walk test it all six zones work. I wired it up as I thought a global tamper would go (Chock block all wires in series and then the two outer ones linked back to the panel) and I get a fault accross all zones. When I got fed up I just put all the same colour wires in the two respective tamper connectors on the panel and the fault goes. however the alarm will not trigger a tamper fault (obviously) as all the zones are now in parallel. What the **** am I doing wrong Is my global tamper theory correct (thats how I did it with a guardtec) or is it completly wrong. A very fustrated newbie

Hello everyone (anyone!) I have recently bought a house with a Scantronic 9800 alarm system fitted. I was left with no information on it other that the access codes. I have downloaded an instruction manual off of the internet, but it really does not answer 2 specific questions I have, so I was hoping for some much needed help off any experts. This is my first alarm system, so I really do not know how to figure this out. 1) I have the alarm rigged to my en-block garage. The alarm to the door of my garage seems to always be switched on. Therefore every time I go to access my garage, I set the alarm off! Is there anyway I can switch this part of the alarm off from the cont…

I have a Premier 24 Panel, 5 Pyronix ME 12s P.I.Rs, 2 Texecom Prestige DTs (Dual Techs) and an Intellisense FG1008 Glassbreak sensor with reed switch. I have connected everything only to find that all 8 zones are showing up on the keypads as 'TAMPER.' On the panel I have simply connected the 8 yellow and 8 blue wires from all 8 security devices into the auxillary tamper loop (I even tried the 'global system tamper' with terminal blocks)

Can anyone tell me what the "programmable outputs" are for on the Texecom speech dialler and are they any use to me owning a intellisense 800L. Also would the Texecom be a good choice for this kit,I haven't ordered one yet. Thanks in Advance.

I'm in the precess of finalising my spec. A few questions to any Texecom Premier experts:- 1. I know you can have various zones be set to chime, but what type of chimes are they. Are we talking about a quiet bing bong, or is there something that could wake you from sleep for example without setting the whole system off? 2. Would it be odd to have a remote keypad on the exit from the home, but then also have an extra one located in the master bedroom near the bed. I'm thinking that would be a great place to arm/disarm, plus you could see any chime zones etc, I'm assuming they are displayed when they go off (early morning postman for example). 3. Having more that 1 remo…

Hello, Ive searched high and low and ive found speech dialers or speech and text diallers. However I havent yet come across a text only dialler. Do any manufacturers make one? I think text will be pretty good as the thing will leave a text message to your phone. Noone has to pick up the phone just in case they are busy etc.

I have connected 2 oddassay 1 bell boxes together, but after trying to enter the unique hold off system it did,nt seem to work. Is it because I have linked out the tamper in the sterling 10 control pannel after rectifying a previous fault of a temper indicating on arming the pannel. Please help.

I recently posted on here for a wirefree alarm. I have read with interest that majority of people only like wired stuff. But I have issues with wires as I have laminate upstairs with painted walls and wires are going to look horrible. As I need the alarm ASAP, I am thinking of going for ESP Infinite as I don't think the other makes such as guardtec or Honeywell are available for DIY people and ESP is probably as good wirefree alarm I going to get...unless someone knows better. Anyway, I am desperate now...so I cannot help but install wirefree. I suppose I can always take it with me if I move!! But if anyone has recently installed wirefree whether ESP, Gardtec etc, wo…

Hi I recently bought a eurosec CP8 control panel and an additional rkp (Tate fire and security) both from screwfix. I have the panel working correctly with the eurosec rkp but I can't get the Tate one to connect properly. The CP8 expects 12V, 0V D1 and D2, however the Tate RKP has +, -, C, D and then 2 tamper terminals. I have tried connecting the + and - supply to the Aux 12V output of the panel and then various configurations for the D1, D2 to C and D terminals. Any pointers gratefully received.