Jump to content
Security Installer Community

please help with walk test


Guest Matthew Shaw

Recommended Posts

Guest Matthew Shaw

When performing a walk test on my veritas r8, zones 1,2,3 and 4 are already lit when I have not entered the zones. Can anyone tell me what this means? Zones 5 and 6 illuminate when walking into the zone.

Please help.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It means that those zones are open. What devices are on the zones that are open. If its PIR's, do the PIR's light up when you walk past them. If door contacts, are the doors shut. If so, is it a new install and this is the initial check. Check the wiring.

Could be all sorts of things really, could do with a little more detail please.

Trade Member

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Matthew Shaw

zones 1 (front door magnetic), 3 (Utility room magnetic) and Zone 5 (Garage PIR) are constantly open during walk mode. The magnetic sensors have been wired red and black to the relevant zone and blue and yellow have been wired in series to the tamper zone.

The PIR hase been wired black and red to the zone 5, white and green to aux power and yellow and blue to tamper zone in series.

Could it be that I need to test all these wires for resistance, - if so, is there any way I can disable the external siren for tonight without having to disconnect the battery? - and if I remove the cover from the bell box will the alarm sound? - or should I go into hold-off mode?

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is it a new install .Has it ever worked , is it your first attempt at installing a system?.

Check zone one for continuity with the door shut, check it goes open circuit when the door opens.If not ,have you wired the red+black to the two shiny screws in the contact?.

If these are your only faults , you shouldnt need to mess with the bell.

Make sure you havent got the walk test on latching mode , as once a zone is open , it will report open constantly.

Regards.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

or just try setting the alarm with all doors shuts and nobody in the house.

If alarm sets ok then its an operational issue.

If you are inexperienced in alarms then i would,nt reccomend you remove lid of panel - there are mains (240v) present.

Could you explain in detail what you have done thus far so as we can all be clear and give you the correct advice.

paul

THE BLACK KNIGHT

"Any comments / opinions posted are my opinion only and do not represent those of my employer or Company."

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Matthew Shaw

We have now checked all the zone wiring, 2 zones were labelled incorrectly. This has narrowed the fault down to the magnetic door sensors. One door sensor had the glass fuse broken also.

We have tested the circuit with a meter and all the wiring is ok.

I have now eliminated the magnetic zones using the control panel and conducted a walk test. All the PIR zones function correctly.

I have then replaced the cover on the panel, entered engineering mode and applied the mains power.

Upon doing so, the 3amp fuse in the spur has blown (twice). When we came out of engineering mode the alarm activated. At no point in time did the tamper circuit light up.

There is obviously a problem with the power supply which has been taken from the back of a socket via a spur. But I am also puzzled as to why the alarm activated upon leaving engineering mode when the walk test performed ok.

As I see it I have three problems:

1) Power Supply

2) Activation of alarm upon engineer mode exit

2) Magnetic Contacts - why are they not working. The magnetic contacts are brand new. I have connected as per the instructions - red to the middle terminal between two other terminals, and black to the left hand of the two terminals, with yellow and blue being connected to the right hand side terminal of the two terminals. On the panel red and black are connected to the zone and blue and green are connected in series to the tamper circuit. I assume the magnetics gain there power source from the tamper circuit to operate?

If the magnetic zones were disabled from the alarm by the remote keypad, would the tamper circuit still work? (contacts are still wired in but omitted via panel)

As you can tell, this is my first installation. It's a good learning process but I think I am going to need an engineer visit. With all wiring in place and functioning ok, do you think this would be a fairly small job for someone, - and how much should I expect to pay an engineer for an hourly rate?

If anyone has any pointers that would be great. Think I will have another look with fresh eyes in the morning, I have removed the bell box and power for this evening!!!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

We have now checked all the zone wiring, 2 zones were labelled incorrectly. This has narrowed the fault down to the magnetic door sensors. One door sensor had the glass fuse broken also.

We have tested the circuit with a meter and all the wiring is ok.

I have now eliminated the magnetic zones using the control panel and conducted a walk test. All the PIR zones function correctly.

I have then replaced the cover on the panel, entered engineering mode and applied the mains power.

Upon doing so, the 3amp fuse in the spur has blown (twice). When we came out of engineering mode the alarm activated. At no point in time did the tamper circuit light up.

There is obviously a problem with the power supply which has been taken from the back of a socket via a spur. But I am also puzzled as to why the alarm activated upon leaving engineering mode when the walk test performed ok.

As I see it I have three problems:

1) Power Supply

2) Activation of alarm upon engineer mode exit

2) Magnetic Contacts - why are they not working. The magnetic contacts are brand new. I have connected as per the instructions - red to the middle terminal between two other terminals, and black to the left hand of the two terminals, with yellow and blue being connected to the right hand side terminal of the two terminals. On the panel red and black are connected to the zone and blue and green are connected in series to the tamper circuit. I assume the magnetics gain there power source from the tamper circuit to operate?

If the magnetic zones were disabled from the alarm by the remote keypad, would the tamper circuit still work? (contacts are still wired in but omitted via panel)

As you can tell, this is my first installation. It's a good learning process but I think I am going to need an engineer visit. With all wiring in place and functioning ok, do you think this would be a fairly small job for someone, - and how much should I expect to pay an engineer for an hourly rate?

If anyone has any pointers that would be great. Think I will have another look with fresh eyes in the morning, I have removed the bell box and power for this evening!!!!!

ok where to start;

your contacts; you have two silver screws and the rest are copper - red goes to one silver screw and black goes to other silver screw. your blue and green gets twisted together and goes onto a copper screw.

Contacts don,t need power as such but each side of the two loops is positive or negative and i think the way you have it connected you have a short hence alarm activates on exit.

your power supply could be knackered; unless you are electrically competent DO NOT TO TOUCH.

I Think you need to get a profeesional in

paul

THE BLACK KNIGHT

"Any comments / opinions posted are my opinion only and do not represent those of my employer or Company."

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Did you ever say if this was an alarm you inherited, or are you installing it yourself? An answer to this would help everyone who's trying to help you.

It sounds like you've misunderstood the wiring, especially of magnetic reed contacts which do not use power. As a result you have blown fuses and maybe damaged the control panel.

as stated earlier it's probably time to give up and get an expert in. :fear:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Matthew Shaw

This is brand new kit I have installed myself. Correct me if I am wrong, but is the fuse not there to protect the panel from such damage, or does it just stop me from electricuting myself?!! I used a 3 amp fuse.

I have not connected power to the magnetic contacts at any time (as per instructions). All wiring has been done as the book has told me to the best of my knowledge. I was just posing the question about power to the contacts, and have not actually done that. From what I understand the magnetic contacts need a connection to the panel zone and the tamper zone.

No one has yet responded about an hourly rate??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hourly rate= anything between 50 and 120 depending on area/call out charges/company with loads of overheads/one man band/etc

The opinions I express are mine and are usually correct!

(Except when I'm wrong)(which I'm not)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have not connected power to the magnetic contacts at any time (as per instructions). All wiring has been done as the book has told me to the best of my knowledge. I was just posing the question about power to the contacts, and have not actually done that. From what I understand the magnetic contacts need a connection to the panel zone and the tamper zone.

The magnetic contacts are usually closed when the magnet is adjacent (door closed situation) and the contacts for that are wired to a zone. The tamper loop is separate and the two wires are usually just terminated on a single spare screw inside the magnetic switch. Have you had a look at picture in the DIY install guide on the Security Installer web site? You'll get answers to many of your questions there.

==>http://www.thesecurityinstaller.co.uk/diy_...all_guide.shtml

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't think he particularly has a problem with the contacts - from an earlier post they could be wired fine - but it is hard to know obviously without seeing it first hand.

If you (Matthew) had made a slight wiring glitch with the 12v aux power from the panel then the internal glass quick blow fuses would blow. For your 3amp fused spur to go something else is likely to be wrong - such as how you have wired the mains to the panel.

You probably just have a few minor problems but as this is your first install you won't know where one fault starts and the other finishes. Just phone a local company. The problem may be resolveable within the hour - but you won't know until someone comes out.

Zak Tankel - Managing Director - Security First (UK) - www.securityfirst.uk.com

Disclaimer: Any comments or opinions expressed by me are my own as a member of the public and not of my employer or Company.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Matthew Shaw

thankyou, i think and hope you are probably right. The only thing i could have done by mistake thinking about it was to wire a magnetic contact to the power by mistake, later rectyfying it, but am unsure.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.