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al-yeti

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Everything posted by al-yeti

  1. Apart from the possible issue highlighted recently would you say dualcom less issues than webway overall? Would you drop Ernest in favour if dualcom ? Drop webway I meant
  2. Yes , they don't work that good fitted that way, and don't have lid tamper must be connection problem, are they all the same comes with a tail and join is act somewhere else?
  3. Ah more handcuffs only to an arc not so bad though!
  4. As price isn't to much of an issue ask them to price you on honeywell galaxy g2-20 , as above what do you get for 35quid ?
  5. So you normally don't need 12v power going to any door contact The reistors go in the pirs and the door contacts a specific way, manual should show you this I don't know this panel, does it have a global tamper aswell? Dr fusion ? Two sirens? As said above perhaps a speaker aswell but if it's one of those small piezo sounders they don't draw that much Back to the doc!
  6. Perhaps in the case above an entry pir should be compulsory aswell as the door on every site
  7. Are there any spare zones in panel?
  8. How did you know how I should fit the webway then? Or is it just all plain easy......
  9. Your first statement was a bit confusing, if anything if bell box battery was strong it would have rang for a few hours when you disconnected the main system battery and mains It's taking power from panel when you put power on perhaps
  10. If tour going to do that , loop everything off, just to check pcb is still showing fault, ie disconnect all except keypad loop all tampers and default it and then probably pcb
  11. As James said,,, You need to set the final door as a final or exit zone or timed zone can't remember myself which this will tell the alarm you have left the building or set an actual exit time which set the alarm Or the reason it's still beeping because there is a zone open, try setting watch keypad to see if it displays any open zones when there shouldn't be
  12. I would do it lol but it would cost you! But I am 150miles away so no good to you, look for someone local, many small firms will do it, but as above when you get a fault and you cabled it and wired it then you will still have to pay call etc, Price you pay will proabably be what they would have installed for you, your paying for expertise , I would to test all your cables and check everything you put in....
  13. Never had a problem with wireless honeywell , agility 3 has call backs, issues I have seen are batteries and external bells Is it the enforcer everyone rates highly? Agility 3 expensive in comparison, But to be fair most newbies and companies that are not intruder only rate agility ie risco highly around here , just like yale Grade 1 wired honeywell will give you less hassle
  14. I seen global tamper through it hence the question Meaning through keypad terminals ,some weird stuff lol
  15. If you loop out the tamp terminal does fault clear? Then what have you set as the unused zones? Have you got the global tamper running via the keypad? Easier to use fsl and struggle a little with resistors
  16. Or you wired the keypad tamper connector through it, disconnect it see what happens if that's the case , seems like wiring issue
  17. Ah ok, in that case better just remove the line fault from one board to the other?
  18. I think it's battery as said above or something else,,,, setting to 199 on this panel disables the line fault so can't be that if that's already been done
  19. Or swap the bell and strobe see if it works
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