al-yeti

So just to go from panel to panel if that makes sense Bt is tamp BA is trigger B+ is 12v STB is strobe B- is 0v I think lol

Ok so earlier you didn't mean to write bell+ It's bell then +12v So the terminal bell is the bell trigger

If you think the wiring and connections are fine , what happens if you move them to a working circuit as swap them over at panel or expander , the fault will move with the zone or it will be the panel output problem

I think you got it wrong somewhere , picture of panel connections please? Texe experts will turn soon the firmware suitcases

So the black bt if it's the bell trigger then it has to go to the bell output on the texe I don't the texe but would have thought it's obvious

Where's the bell trigger on the texe? I assume it's bt for bell trigger on the pyronix

Stalker

He's just a alarm enthusiast got nothing better to do

Everyone from our age, although I might be older I doubt they teach it much now

No common to have the two recieves The fobs are probably added as hardware then in the engineer menu so without that you won't be able to correct the issue , meaning you need the engineers code It's worthwhile paying someone local to sort out and check the whole system over, in this DIY world everything unfortunately into always DIY , not having a dig of course As someone mentioned in another post these risky risco you need product knowledge to sort problems out , i hate them personally and normally guess my way round fixing issues , so etimes with help from the local monkies

Or there may be an option ,under user options what the fob does for each user

Means you haven't programmed them or incorrectly, the reciever will flash when it recieves a signal but won't do anything because the panel hasn't been programmed for the fobs Example galaxy is the same the RF Rx will flash but do nothing if it equipment hasn't been added because it's seeing a tx Just a general comment Very few risco installers it seems here , either DIY or stuck in there ways lol

Fixed

So as above you can switch them in via menu but assume you will need an extra battery pack for it to last Last one I was called to, i wired a bell instead and stuck the wireless box in the outhouse instead

Yep Hi Honeywell wireless can be buggy to , amount of restarts needed sometimes before something clears , bugged panels hanging around texe maybe

Comfort lights on constantly not siren activations Stop sniffing petrol

Ah ok, was going to compare with hkc, they have additional battery pack gives you 24-36 months approx depending on flash rate , otherwise single normal pack will give you 6months

Battery's last long?

Proper

Or your basically using a wireless bellbox and it has no flashing LEDs in general Only option is to put in a wired bell

Can't remember now about that jumper , but if it solves problem then select g2 if it doesn't then put the resistor in correct place

Good thing on test phones is also the polarity switch , goes red or green so by can't blame installer after for wrong connections lol I used to find some engineers get caught on the ringer not realising the test phone acts as a master so will always ring on the extension with number 3 being connected Back to the topic Get a new panel New engineer New company Or new external dialler And your done Reality many alarm panels need to be changed out move with times , some decorate every 10years so a new security system every 10 is good on residential aswell

Do you have any other codes? You probably need an engineer reset , so you need to call someone anyway now

I still got my yellow bt butt phone as they would call it

All makes sense now I had this problem myself not wiring the g3 correctly , had to get mr alarm monkey to help me (JW) In picture you sent there's a link same batt int or ext , you need to select ext Then the g3 module is waiting for power on a terminal meaning another resistor You should have bought the G2 module would saved you lots of time