Electrics

Just got some Fenix 3.6V(and also tried some old Trustfire 3.7V's) instead of the installed, disposable Li-ion cells, thinking that they would work just as well in my parent's Crocodile garage door sensor. Both brands of rechargeable cells will only allow the door to partially open, about 10-20cm, when the remote is activated and then it comes to a halt. This results in the door being unresponsive to the remote with warning beeps and light being emitted from the main wall mounted panel. Anyone know why re-chargeable Li-ions, on the face of it, don't seem to want to work in the door sensor? Cheers, Tom.

I think I'm about ready to blow my own fuse right now. We are in mid discussion about Fused Spurs and the NSI rules and regs regarding them. We have one person saying... it just need a competent person...to install it. Then the rest of us are saying it requires an electrician or a member of our staff that have part P. Can someone clear this up. Before I loose the will to live. What do you all do? We have been on the phone to NSI who seemed a bit lost. So we contacted our local electrician company who said the majority were correct. Any help guys?

Hi all,so I bought a Ring wired ring door bell on Amazon prime day, £45 with free echo dot!Anyway fitted as per instructions and it works fine. The Ring app tells me the transformer voltage is good.BUT now my living room lights won’t turn on?The doorbell and downstairs lights are on the same breaker, kitchen and hallway lights still work.Have I made a mistake somewhere or is this unrelated to the new doorbell being fitted ?Any advice appreciated, thanks in advance.

Hi everyone, so ive got a new oven to install this one is rated at 16 amps, old one was 13 amps on a plug and socket to ring main. My question is can i install a 32amp double pole switch on the ring main then feed 4mm flex to the oven? Is there anything in the regs that prevents this? Thanks for reading.

Just out of interest, when taking a feed for the fused spur unit from a local socket, ring main or even run back to the consumer unit on a dedicated circuit how many carry out electrical testing and issue either a minor works or installation certificate. As approved electrical contractors this is something we always do however I’m convinced that attending existing alarm installations they have just banged the spur off what ever they can find and given no consideration to the testing. The best one I’ve ever seen was when the installers had taken the supply from a bedroom socket and lifted the carpet and just cut a section out the underlay and dropped the carpet …

Anyone know where I can get a 50mm hockey stick and 3 phase surface mount meter box ?

Looks like we picked the wrong trade. Electricians earn £156,000 a year....... Well according to the Daily Fail Mail... So it must be fact!! http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-4874400/Electricians-earning-156-000-year.html

Lights switching on via occupancy detectors every time the external door is opened and the door alarm sensor activates. The alarm and lights are on different circuits, and cables do not run in close proximity to each other. Has anyone had this before?

I am attempting to indicate a roller shutter has been left open with an LED indicator located at a drivers desk (point A)... the roller shutter is at point B with a lever that when bolted across a relay operates to N.O. Distance from point A to point B is 200m. What's my best way of doing it i.e. voltages and size of cables.... I was thinking of sending a +24VAC down one core from a panel that were having made, running through the relay to connect directly back to the LED indicator. and have 0v connected straight from panel to indicator....

Hi, I have recently brought a house and the previous owners had a TS500 alarm installed. some of the wires have been cut prior to us moving in (due to new windows being installed) so it doesn't work properly and I want to remove it completely with all accompanying sensors. When I turn the fuse board off the alarm sounds so I was wondering how to completely power down the unit and remove it properly, without the alarm sounding - I have both Engineer code and the personal code. Thanks.

I know people have discussed fire and stuff on here, A friend of mine who was a fireman on scene that day of the clandon park fire thought i might like to look at the report as we have talked about how they work out the cause of a fire, I also thought some of you guys may like some light bed time reading and there is photos at the end, http://www.surreycc.gov.uk/people-and-community/surrey-fire-and-rescue/surrey-fire-and-rescue-services-fire-investigation-report-clandon-park

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Decking-Kitchen-Plinth-Lighting-Small/dp/B012OTNWPY/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1462522859&sr=8-18&keywords=small+decking+light Want to wire these in my new house every other stair, want to have a fused spur in the hallway connected from the switched live and neutral of the hallway lights. Thing is the power supply on that is plug type, just want to know what power supply i should buy so i can connect it to a fuse spur. I was never any good at working out what type of power supply is needed so pls go easy on me A link to the correct one would be great, it has to be non plug type (or one i can cut a mains plug off …

An opinion please as a lad I used to work with thinks I should join a rough bunch electrical forum. I wired a emergency lighting system to a job last week. I used maintained as I thought the local wiring was really bad. I used white FP screw fixed and terminated into round plaster fix boxes. The fittings I fixed by drilling a 9mm hole either end of the fitting and using plasterboard fixings straight through the fitting into the ceiling using the collar as the support the cable entered the back of the fitting in the middle. I have always fixed plastic to board this way and never considered it rough. I keep the screws for other things. What do you thinks

I have a site that would like a panel in the hallway, there are no sockets in the hall that I can get to for the spur, however on the other side of the wall there is a socket in the kitchen. Would taking the power from the kitchen be classed as part P, as I am not adding any power in the kitchen, just spurring off to a non special location.

Im looking to replace a few 500W halogens with led floodlights. Anyone used them or recommend a supplier, thanks