sixwheeledbeast

You on about Mr Dingers on insta? Most stuff over here seems to disappear, most likely into bits in a container to somewhere... Youth joyriding is more bikes of all types and powertrains.

Still huge pieces of the puzzle missing... is the system wireless? is this an entry route? how much CCTV footage did you see? If wearing a thick parker would avoid detection then the devices wouldn't be FFP, as it would become a common attack. Thermal cloaking is in the realm of military tech, not your average burglar looking for till cash. A confirmed system I would be wanting overlapping DT's in confirmed areas.

You've not really expanded on the questions in the thread. As above I'd be checking efficacy and looking at what was quoted on the spec. If they are just PIR's then I would would be thinking poor system design for the risk on policed. More likely to have checked the coverage in the days prior and avoided detection than any sort of blocking.

Also who called the Police...?

So the alarm FTA for the break in?

The cabs are similar and got refreshed while on the original version. The date sticker has been removed... sus. I assume the green sticker says 8.xx ? One Network with OP 4/5 = 88 What label?

It's a Premier 88, not Elite. https://www.securitywarehouse.co.uk/catalog/intruder-alarm-c-36/security-control-panels-c-36_102/control-panels-all-c-36_102_41/texecom-premier-elite-88-control-panel-p-369.html Don't buy junk from ebay...

They are usually panhead self tappers, if I were to guess a size 6ga 1/2" ? The lid screw presses against a tamper lever which must be closed for the system to clear. Even if you put it back together correctly, it's also possible the system requires an engineer reset due to the tamper fault; even tho it maybe out of contract with ADT.

We do not provide defaulting or manuals here as per our guidelines. It's possible it's decommissioned for a reason, they aren't designed to be just switched off and on from the fuse and just work. Best to have an installer recommission it, but expect them to recommend an upgrade.

No!!

I think the point is you can get bad copies of anything on Amazon, Ebay or the like. They need to be disposable reputable batteries to be confident it's a device issue.

Are they disposable batteries? I have had Scantronic contacts flatten batteries in 9-10 months regularly but never as little as 6.

Well defaulting the panel will mean you need to reprogram everything from scratch so I'd start there... Maybe concentrate on removing what you did and getting it working again if your not sure? Wired incorrectly is likely for Zone 9 but you don't say what they are wired into.

I mention this to customers they rarely remember until they call to say it's not working... It's the same for any equipment that serves your services to the internet. CCTV is another example. Just copying the SSID and Password doesn't always work for all equipment, the cipher type maybe different on the new router so you can have issues. Best to remove the device and reinstall.

You don't mention much about the system, I'm assuming it's a Texecom Elite with a Smartcom and that it's connected with Wifi. If so and you have replaced the router as per what the ISP have said then yes it's very likely a new router will require the Smartcom reconfiguring. If the system was setup with wired Ethernet it should remove this issue. Sounds like you also need a new installer if unreliable, the app is tied to the installer they are not end user serviceable. Although suddenly and 6 months in the same sentence seems odd...

There isn't one, C&K is long obsolete. Panel and keypad required.

What happened before it started sounding? Data cable or something on the network is likely damaged causing the keypad to lock out. Would need investigating further, there is no magic off switch.

Maybe consider the spec, I know it seems easy to throw stuff where it is now. As much as you may wish to DIY, correct placement and design could see significant savings with better and more usable footage.

It will only record in analogue resolutions even if converted, not recommended. Some machines are "hybrid" so you map IP's to the channels, this usually requires PoE elsewhere and detecting cams from the WAN. Just replace the lot with new Samsung. Seems a shame to get rid of a decent DVR but if 960H isn't good enough now (new cams?), you need to start again.

Not much you can do as an end user if you don't know the code. Removing the mains should have made it run on batteries and then trigger the outside siren if it's completely dead. If not of that happened then something is broken. Alarms need servicing regularly this may not have been done and other things maybe faulty. Either leave it powered down or call an alarm company/engineer to service and reset everything.

There is more to a siren than it's backlight...

I actually would say they are well designed even tho I don't use that model. Anything with a backlight will die eventually and at least the led strip is removable/replaceable.

I have fitted a few systems with HA integration of varying degrees. Most of the time if they had no HA the alarm could to what they wanted anyway.

I know my point being, disconnecting the cameras is an issue or disconnecting the network could be an issue; I don't see them as suitable options. It's all down to the kit, I know some kit would completely fail setup like this. If the switch doesn't come up you have no video. Your then relying on the intruder I'd assume. A normal ARC CCTV system would be self contained and have alarms per camera themselves. This seems like video confirmation but your covering areas outside the intruder... Possibly a bit pointless all this ARC CCTV stuff in the way it's implemented to get police response anyway? Anyway hard to say as we don't know the full details of the systems but removing power from equipment is never a reliable solution. You have no way to prove the equipment is up or will come up when you need it. I don't worry but I have concerns and to my best to protect my security and privacy but everyone is different. Many seem to be happy telling everyone what amazing meal they're having on holiday via social media...

Depends on the kit... If the system is still recording they'll need to have playback access anyway to check on alarms. Disconnecting cameras would trigger video loss alarms, if the system is missing if they check on it they may think there is a fault. Your also adding a single point of failure to the system. The most sensible solution would be a privacy mask on the cameras triggered by I/O.