sixwheeledbeast

I don't believe so no. There are two options either PC via flasher interface board or via cloud and Smartcom. To move the site profile you connect to the panel COM port reading/writing the NVM, for firmware there is a interface board that sits between the PC and flash on a programming port. If the firmware on the flash is corrupt to the point that you can't put the panel into flashing mode or you can't push any firmware because the panel doesn't respond, then you have a bricked panel.

The Texecom Cloud has to cover it's costs somehow. Glitches are not normal they are usually a hint to something failing or not setup correctly when it comes to Ricochet. Messing with Wintex is obviously an engineers facility. Messing with firmware or site profiles comes with a risk of a non working system if you mess up. Firmware flash goes wrong you usually end up with a brick.

Yes. I personally wouldn't use any profiles and start fresh. Those saved ones maybe corrupt but you could TIAS if you know what your doing.

1) In most cases yes but updating them should be considered. I would usually say on a takeover upgrade ideal is to replace the electronics and test the wiring is sound for re-use. 2) Forget the Gardtec if you need to update. It EOL, better to replace at your convenience before your forced to by a failure.

Assuming it was only a Wintex programming update and not a firmware update then defaulting and reprogramming would fix this corruption. I'd have probably been considering defaulting and recommissioning the Ricochet stuff if you had weird issues anyway.

What does your insurer require is a good starting point.

Yep

Yep

Double pole is six wires...

O/C O/C

They are double pole unless it's a plus. If your an installer you can get the manual on Texecoms website, that covers panels after 2000.

TIAS? There is no guarantee a siren with a working battery even if un-enrolled isn't going to trigger at some point in the future.

Fully working systems when the external siren is disconnected from the control panel this will trigger the siren. You may find it doesn't but to decommission a system you would usually get up to the siren. These things are not designed to be defeated easily.

Most DIY stuff is junk and no better than what you have but with a shiny app. Proper alarm gear with an app most of them are subscription via a registered installer, this gives some guarantee it will work in an alarm condition.

The whole alarm is obsolete anyway. The Powermax is long discontinued and was a one-way wireless system so was very poor for security. If you are about to have FTTP installed it will depend on the ISP as to if they have an option to supply you a line via an ATA, but it's not worth doing this just for the alarm IMO. Modern stuff uses internet.

No problem. Nice to read a successful follow up post.

Yep, I'd replace the controls. If your trade you should apply.

Only one I've had with this issue was the PCB had burn marks on the back due to overloading from cooked battery.

BTW "Type 2 or above" should really be clarified as Type 2 or better, i.e. PVC Type 2 or LSZH Type 1.

This is were experience from people that fit and design stuff is worth it's weight for letting them do it. There is rarely a truly perfect corner so things have to be balanced. There are other things too, like accessibility to both work/maintain it and initially install the cabling. If the sensor maybe blocked in the future by tall furniture or curtains. Passive IR will not penetrate surfaces so cars are no problem. Definitely not above a heat source. The stove/kettle most likely off if going out, unless you have an Aga type setup.

Shielded is unnecessary for Texecom, as long as it's Cable Type 2 or above that's fine.

Yep I'd do exactly like this. All the wrong colours but lets not start that one...

It may aswell be OF the amount of skin in the shot... Issue with doing a full turn around the screw is the loop binds causing it to pull round with the pan head; like with the red core here.

Don't use them any more, more modern styles have PCB mounted sprung terminals and most things are wired FSL/EOL now. You should remove enough isolation from the conductors to do a half turn around the screw. Wrap the conductor with the 7 strands twisted up together, clockwise to make a half turn around the screw. The washer is to trap the reed conductors securely, I have always gone under the washer but I would imagine it's designed to be between.

Who knows, in working order the system is designed to be tamperproof, triggering the internal and/or external bells depending on how it's tampered with. I imagine it's well past it's best and should be decommissioned or upgraded if the wiring is in good order. The power light indicates it is connected to mains power so could alarm if you play with it. Systems that have had no maintenance for many years are generally for the bin. But I'm sure you've read all this before if you've been reading posts here.