sixwheeledbeast

Then products are irrelevant, your installer of choice will use their own preferred manufacturers. They will have trained on that kit so asking them to fit something else is not the best idea. You should get at least 3 quotes go with the company you feel the most comfortable with, not based on solely the quote price. I'd usually replace all the electronics, but you don't mention age or models of kit. If it's a really old Premier I'd bin it anyway. 4 zones, 3 sirens and 3 exits, seems the weirdest system in the world...

Where?

If you get the same manufacturer as the panel you will have EOL OOTB. I don't really rate those cheap Honeywells, some nice quads will be much more reliable. Much better down the line to have end-of-line than double pole to diagnose faults.

Should be compatible if you wired as double pole with commoned tampers. I'd probably replace them.

Lidl bakery useful. Aldi don't like at all.

Morrisons is a bit posh for up here... Heron or Farmfoods maybe?

I don't know of any panel that would chime on close. Yep, as above using a Mimic output and some other logic like a toggle relay or custom outputs would be the way to go.

Then I would suggest monitoring in that case.

Like most sounders the Twin alert manual has the wiring instructions for different manufacturers. Aux Tamp / Aux Tamp / Bell / Spk- / 0V / +12V

Not used one. Is the strike time really short? Does the strike lock require the same voltage as the KP? Have you tested your findings with a multimeter? Is it just not wired correctly or some other simple mistake?

It does both. Allowing walk through for Full set and switching to entry for Part sets.

As JW stated the charging rate is in the standard. Larger premier panels have a charging rate selection jumper so you can adjust the rate depending on the battery and make sure it conforms.

If you keep pressing the info/OK button it should run through the faults. If the faults are clear it will let you arm/disarm to clear.

Yep I'd also assume the PIR's are in Auto and sleeping. Door contacts shouldn't do that unless you have programmed them incorrectly. They default to always awake.

Most panels have NVM locking but it's down to the installation company as to if it's used. We don't provide defaulting information here as per our guidelines. It can be argued the programming is intellectual property of the installer. Locking would provide protection against others changing the system configuration then blaming the original installer for a FTO. The charge to come out to reset the codes means they have in writing they have transferred ownership of the system to the customer or their maintainer, it's important due to above. As it's a Gardtec 800 I'd say it's well past it's best and for the bin, just replace it and have done with it.

The potting looks like there is a crack round that varistor looking component, maybe water has got in... I'd still be investigating the Red "fault" light on the supply.

Fuse has blown on the PSU? The back of the keypad is potted from what I remember so you maybe lucky and cleaning it up will work with a new fuse?

Pretty standard yep.

System with linear transformers normally have DC-DC voltage regulation after rectification, AC voltages wouldn't matter unless under the the required DC voltage. 14V is still high. There are plenty of other system check engineers would do on a service over just voltage. Charging current you would check amperage in series with a good battery. Before this test I would discharge the battery by measuring the system current in alarm and standby.

Aux voltage should be around 13.6Vdc. 14 or more is too high it's likely the voltage regulator is failing. They sometimes have adjustment controls to set voltage lower on the 317 but even so I imagine it's tired and can't push enough amperage to fully charge a battery after a power cut. Most ADE stuff this age is like this and should be considered for upgrade. Modern stuff uses switch mode power supplies and while more complex use a lot less energy over there life.

Oh so the PSU is cooked then...

You say it's reliable but I'd be amazed if it actually charges the battery properly.... I'm all for looking after things in good working order but most ADE stuff I come across is no longer FFP.

You could try but there is no guarantee it will work properly. You will also have the issue that a power cut will disable the alarm signalling. Best option is to upgrade the system/signalling to a more modern digital compatible one.

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