sixwheeledbeast

For Global tamper you have to break them open to measure and compare to as fitted readings for each pair.... It's a Premier so you could go wire them all FSL/EOL then you can narrow the fault down. It may even fix it if one of the tamper pairs are faulty. Yes you can double check by opening it but that is the Aux Tamper. 10 PIR's on 8 zones is asking for trouble.

What's wired into the AUX Tamper?

I took "home office" as Home Office or a government building. You get what you pay for at the end of the day. If the agreement is to use existing infra, even if you don't recommend it and you have that in writing; that's up to them.

Separate network and unmanaged switches. Consider fibre for backbone. You're removing variables that way. Sharing the sites network will only mean liaising with IT departments and intermittent issues you have no control over. Fine, if your site IT on a job creation scheme not so good for us.

I'd say your either following the defaulting instructions incorrectly or very slim chance the panel is duff. We don't provide defaulting instructions here.

Agreed. Control panel being inaccessible and unserviced is most likely the issue. That's if the system hasn't blown something in the meantime.

BUS detection devices would only be compatible with certain compatible control units and there matching manufacturer. Most modern equipment utilises some data BUS type wiring for the keypads and zone expanders, which I believe is the case for the iON. Essentially each device has an address so they can be identified back at the control and they all communicate and get powered from the same line. Often this is wired as a pair for power and pair for data.

Xenon strobes have ~3Kv driver circuit. 230Vac (mains voltages) while dangerous is considered LV (low voltage) in the grand scheme of things.

The strobe would usually be very high voltage unless it's an LED one...

I would use the existing wiring as a base for a hybrid system myself. Too many times have I seen old systems ripped out and junk replacing it. Yes some of the tatty wiring maybe removed but if the system was in good order at some point it may reduce installation or service costs to reuse some of it. For the more direct questions, yes the alarm is likely to sound if you tamper with it. There is no guarantee that any service/engineer modes would work so expect it to rattle your ears. They're designed to be hard to disable and bring attention to the fact someone is tampering with it, if installed and serviced correctly.

Blown fuse or possibly panel. Check for AUX voltage with a multimeter.

Verisure, Eufy, Ring all junk. Texecom is what I fit but not supported for end user installation. Maybe Scantronic?

Hopefully you have the Y splitter cable that comes with the siren or you can't plug them in.

poor security 1 way wireless, discontinued kit, not the most popular model of this old stuff either so not advised for fitting in 2026 at all... MCS-740 is updated model of the 730. Red cap on the lid screw would be a K-305177

Outdoor ones are at least triple the cost? I have put internal equipment (AP) outside in an IP box at customers request, it lasted couple of years before it lost it's marbles. I'd suggest that's a lot of equipment to go down if you have a failure and consider a redesign or using the proper stuff.

It looks like it's been wired in Cat5 should be "Intruder alarm cable BS4737-3.30:2015" preferably Type 2 or better, which is stranded. Solid cables are not designed for alarm systems as they can break causing intermittent faults.

It's not wired in the correct cable, nothing is worth saving in this case as we say. If your not going to rewire it, you'll have to go full wireless which will be new everything.

Wants rewiring anyway it's not been wired in the correct cable and there's only 2 zones so I'd start again if I was working on it.

Was there a reason to revive an 8 year old thread to bitch about kit you stopped using 3 years ago? Firmware is currently 6.06.2 and this thread is about wireless keypads on V4. Clearly the kit wasn't for you just use something else. I don't have any issues with any Texe stuff I use but whatever...

It does say that in the manual. I can't see how it functions the same, especially when one does a functional test of the relay output and the other doesn't.... Makes no difference for the last post.

Using the Aux input the panel knows to expect the test if it's programmed at a fault and not a tamper, with a zone you'll have to program that zone attribute. I'd do what I suggested in a previous post before taking anything apart to see if the fault will clear. I'm still sus it's not wired correctly somehow. You should be able to disable them completely from the panel via the engineer hold off, yes.

That's only G2 tho, so missing your fault pairs you need to series. I forgot the microswitch wire replaces the return wire between the boxes. Just because it's been fine doesn't mean it's wired so it will work, maybe it is, maybe not. MSW terminals are just for the boxes not to be wired back to anything.

Having to series the microswitch, return and fault terminals correctly in a proper JB sounds like a PITA... Usually best to loop in and out of the first box. If it's not wired correctly it may just be a tamper between the two boxes as the tamper return may still be closed elsewhere... Using the test wire requires wiring as per Texecom recommendations otherwise you'll get faults on every test signal. The panel has to be programmed to expect the test is happening if you use Zones instead of fault input.

I'd consider just replacing the battery part BAT-0001 if everything else looks serviceable. Try triggering the strobe and see if they activate, then just the bell trigger and see if it clears hold-off. I've not sure it will be the battery, you don't have the Test input wired from what I gather. This runs the test using the test timer which triggers the fault output on the bell to open if the tests fail. Not only is there added complexity having a G3 bell but you have two which is a mess to get right having to series everything.

What's wrong with the existing siren? Auxiliary type reports an alarm silently on the display which is probably fine for your needs. Grade 3 boxes fault output are designed to be wired to the Aux Input and that input programmed as Fault (Sys Config), if your looking for the Texecom suggested way to do this. Either way it all seems overkill, G3 fault detections wouldn't offer much benefit on a domestic over G2 and regular testing.