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Everything posted by sixwheeledbeast

  1. If that's what colours the instructions say? I haven't got one to hand, you would normally only cut one coloured loop from each row for one device IIRC. As al says if you are careful and cut at the top of the loop you could solder the link back closed again, if you get the wrong link. NC is a spare terminal (no connection)
  2. There's a good few Karizmas out there still, some companies back in the day only fitted iD. But they are bound to cause an issue to the occupiers in the near future. NVM checksum issues, failing obsolete biscuits, lots wired star with four cored cable, your just kicking the can down the road not upgrading.
  3. You need to break it down and work out why it's not triggering. So is it messed up programming in the dialler or it's input after that you know if to check output of the panel. They can get a surge up the phone line that damaged them but if test calls work that's unlikely in your case.
  4. The system is an obsolete iD system, most are star wired this type of wiring is not like most alarm systems so they can be difficult to upgrade to a more traditional wired alarm. I would say it should be replaced sooner than later but if your leaving your unlikely wanting to be spending money on it. Regards replacement it all depends on the system but it's very possible you would need to start again wiring, sensors the lot. If you have been in engineers mode and it will not clear on leaving, it's likely still got a fault with that device, wire or biscuit if they aren't iD sensor
  5. You can't buy ADT stuff new, I don't see why you would anyway.
  6. Sounds like it may need user authorisation first. It's been a while since I worked on one even then it would have been a UK variant with EN options so maybe different.
  7. Read instructions carefully cut the wrong links and you'll likely need another
  8. You could change the zones and series the tampers like a global tamper if the old panel was double pole but for the cost of some decent contacts it's not a good idea.
  9. You need resistors for your contacts or contacts with resistors built in would be best. Something like SC570/WH/MULTI for example. They don't provide resistors in any Texe stuff now.
  10. I see some logic with the Poly cab, having the main terminal block close to the intruder wires. Rarely see them used, I don't think a lot of engineers know what it's for TBH.
  11. I would keep the wires where possible or even install some new cables, I'd at least want to keep the bell wired myself. It's possible the hall sensor has been DIY resited or added on after.
  12. Really this type of stuff is just junk to us. Most of us are based in the UK industry where property risk, kit availability and system standards are different.
  13. Probably not, never fitted one but I assume it's one way wireless so if disarmed it wouldn't know the panels been pulled of the wall. It's possibly got a flat battery anyway if in fault.
  14. Can't remember the connector now but most likely it's got more connections. 6P4C not 6P2C for example. The RJ system for defining connectors is all messed up, it's only really for American phone systems but people have started to use these incorrect names worldwide.
  15. They are still possibly not compatible. Jumpers or DIP switches would indicate manually setting channels whereas without would have an enrollment method via the panel. You don't mention any model but TBH it all sound very old or DIY and not something anyone here would have used, most stuff moved to 868Mhz a decade ago.
  16. https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2021-03-09/hackers-expose-tesla-jails-in-breach-of-150-000-security-cams
  17. As far as I was aware they are just a standard early model BT branded Powermax, this was before ADT had there own frequency as they where probably still using Admeco at the time? Never seen inside a BT branded contact so no idea what is different but there is a DIP switch for the terminals on a MCT302 as well as the link. To be honest it's not worth spending money on it, Powermax stuff is one way and cheap, really should be looking to upgrade to a two way system if you need to alter the system.
  18. Ricochet isn't just point to point so your better with more devices and possible if you have plenty of them and everything at the final place is within 3 hops. For long range intruder I have used Scantronic stuff that was good for 1km in the past. Really I am thinking you just need to get Ethernet to IP access controllers at the doors, so just some directional wifi bridges to each?
  19. Short answer is yes. Bear in mind Mr H's helpful diagram doesn't include the JB tamper which would go in series, much like the red pair does. Something like a J81 or I prefer JB707 would be suitable for connections.
  20. You get the delay upon arming that is when the system is checking the status of the devices, if you look at the keypad you will have a scrolling/waiting symbol. The panel will set the correct mode for every type of device upon learning, so you shouldn't really change it unless there is a special need to. Hybrid mode is for movement devices, when used the sensor is put to sleep on disarming so will always show what is was at that moment, until it's awoke by the panel normally at arming. You may have a signal issue so the status/waking of all the devices is not getting back to the
  21. 12KW!? Clearly a typo. Ring Finals are horrible things, should have been deprecated years ago IMO. There allowance falls back on design caveats and our outlets, plugs and sockets, everything should have a 13A fuse maximum that is supplied from one from this design. When you consider that the cable used for RFC is underrated for the size of the MCB and only possible due to the loop, these fuses are important especially in a fault.
  22. It's certainly not recommended, anything that is a high load appliance should have a dedicated radial circuit back to the CU. Pretty sure 2KW is mentioned as a limit, your new one is more like 3.6. I wouldn't even be keen on using a plug top type if the kitchen didn't have it's own RFC, you only need to have the oven and kettle on at the same time, which is common...
  23. It's pointless really if it's even possible with Pyronix. Your decreasing the battery life greatly and there is no guarantee the message is getting to the panel unless you want all your sensors on chime or something... In commercial environments more recent systems will often have detection LED's disabled most of the time so unauthorised people can't see the detection activation area as PJ says. Best thing I can suggest for peace of mind is increase your short term maintenance, so monthly or even weekly walk tests; instead of annually.
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