sixwheeledbeast

Never used one, but doesn't look like the standard 4+1 that you can use pretty much any. https://doorentrydirect.com/media/product_attach_files/g/d/gdx_-_23121_-_datasheet.pdf

Edge is just skinned chrome now, try it and cross your fingers?

Chrome was the last browser to support ActiveX plugins, Firefox disabled them a good while ago. DM went bust mostly because they were slow to assess market changes, their gear cost at least twice the price of newer stuff with less features. Now we are left with any innovative companies being absorbed into Chinese giants and a heavy focus on as cheap as possible for large parts of the market.

Normally zone lights while setting would indicate fuse blown. You would need a multimeter and some knowledge how to use it to find out why. Systems need regular service or they are not reliable, some people are lucky and get away with it for years... until there is a power cut and find the whole system is shot from no maintenance.

You don't really ask a question, but hybrid units are available as are tels passthrough units. It's probably more cost effective to replace the system now, years ago you would consider conversion like this. Far too complex a system to give any more help than that without seeing it.

I haven't got much patience with Risco stuff, especially the Lightsys, they do odd things. Really you would need to pull all field wiring and just wire the keypad on 1m of cable to prove the panel.

Anything using ActiveX is junk for me, I wouldn't bother with it. ActiveX is dead and unsupported. I don't know the unit but I can't imagine connecting via telnet will get you any further to what you need even if you did. The DS2 is a solid machine and was top end in it's day, it's just limited now in quality being only composite. Also client software will be dead and uncompatible like most old stuff.

I have heard that before but I cba with it hanging around, postage, messers or ebay from a seller POV... Meanwhile it's always bin day somewhere.

Who buys this junk, I put an 8 zone version in the bin a while ago. Horrid thing.

Mostly the older stuff and only when I have to. Not played with a PM33 much, I know PM really don't like having any modules added live. Maybe start with a power cycle. Ribbon is keyed make sure it's pressed home correctly. Zones are EOL 2K2/2K2, I think?

Not recommendations but our listings. https://www.thesecurityinstaller.co.uk/community/forum/268-uk-security-installers-by-regional-police-force/

If it's never been serviced it could be knackered. It may cost you that for the tools and bits you need to work out what's wrong.

a van?...

DIY plug and play stuff. Not something people on here would use. Don't like the look of that electrical tape mess back there. All the cameras plugged in the right ports? Power coming from the PSU? Is it the correct PSU? Try powering one camera at a time?

You can control the system with a COM-GSM. There is nothing stopping making some DIY signalling solution and interfacing it with the system. It's much better for them if only trained engineers use their platform it's not just about per connection costs.

The Smartcom IP module needs installer registered Cloud account to add to a system, but is compatible. No manufacturers are really interested in DIY market, I think the consensus is only Eaton/Scantronic are left with a free app for DIY, how long that lasts or how reliable it is I have no idea. These servers that run the apps cost money so restricting stuff to paid and/or installer only is the only sustainable solution for them. Ricochet Mesh is a Texecom only thing, other manufacturers have two way/transceivers but not mesh. Apps are not a replacement for signalling, they are not polled so no guarantees you'll get a message. It depends why you want this "internet access", I'd not bother myself. If it's really a requirement possibly consider a COM-GSM on your existing system if DIY or get an installer to firmware update then add a Smartcom and look after what you have.

It's got more going for it than the Accenta IMO but you still have to consider it's only an R8 with a special keypad. Prox and hybrid options make the 24 more flexible.

It could be anything but as I say most likely the lid not on correctly. You'll need a multimeter and know how to use it, if it's something else.

If it's locked out, fix the tamper and press reset? Most likely the lid if you've been in there.

EOL on Excel as always been weird, much like the rest of the panel I suppose... They never used to support 2K2/4K7 at all, so this is relatively new feature to my knowledge. I imagine the panel is still looking for closed loops or one of the daft 33K EOL modes, your tests would be correct so it's likely a panel setting. The option to switch EOL modes maybe ignored without also enabling a "High Security wiring type" option or something along them lines. Some options only work on the LCD keypad and not the LED and vice-versa. As much as your saving a few quid using an Excel to a Premier, they are not great to program or work on.

A DIY'er is unlikely to care for running wires and an installer needs systems to conform to BS/EN, they are completely separate markets. ADT will not be interested in helping a DIY project, they make money from contract systems. If it's DIY and your insurance don't care you can do what you want (within reason) but don't expect it to work correctly or provide any usable evidence if it was required. Touch screen are pointless and expensive when pulled off the wall and stamped on, an installer being called to that after a break in wouldn't have a spare, leaving you without a system after a break in...

It's beeping 9 times indicating a Tamper, locate the tamper with a multimeter? If the system hasn't been service in a long while the charging circuit may be faulty and should be checked before a battery replacement. You can walk test without entering engineers mode but it's not going to help here. If you not sure what your doing get an installer to look at it. Ignoring it or leaving it unmaintained will only cause you more issues in the future. Systems need regular maintenance or they will let you down at the most inconvenient time and upset your neighbours. It's a red light model so Pre-2k meaning it's over 22 years old, any manual you find on the internet will likely be the wrong one for that model... Also don't reuse that code.

Logic would say if you have enough wires, stick a wire in everything deal with it at the panel end later... From a DIY POV anyway...

There won't be a dedicated one, it means an output needs programming to that type. Should work fine without it.

The panel is faulty either way if the memory has been lost, the keypad is part of the system and are compatible with each other, you're not finding a panel that will work with that 30 year old keypad. They are pretty resilient panels to surges and short circuits to be fair, but it's done it's time. Could diagnose the same from what you have said in OP. Things that I wouldn't be able to tell you is if the keypad is worn on some of the digits, this may have stopped them accessing the panel for example. Maybe their engineers were not even born when the panel was manufactured and not seen one to work on... Either way keypad is of no use so may as well be dead. Prices will vary a lot based on location, installer, approval, kit quality etc etc.