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sixwheeledbeast

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Everything posted by sixwheeledbeast

  1. Yep. It will override DND and/or Silent too, you would have to manually disable these broadcast alerts in the options for those devices. I would expect people providing devices for those cases should know.
  2. It's not SMS, it's a tower broadcast your device would have to understand what it was and then action it, otherwise it will just do nothing. Your right tho, why should anything inbound affect outbound operation at all. It's the same for every device with a SIM. It's only really going to be up to date Android and iOS devices that will do anything if you have broadcasts enabled. I'm waiting for a string of motorway accidents at 1500 Sunday. Pick a time when everyone is travelling home from weekends away to test an unusual alert system/sound that needs a user interaction to cancel...
  3. They don't have part sets as such, it's home/away aka Interior/Perimeter zone types.
  4. They are a PITA, most of the ones I have seen install by others have no tamper. Tamper needs a 2k2 resistor in series to zone 12V and GND can only supply 450mA as it says so you need a low current bell. EXT is -ve trig.
  5. It's an installer option, if your system has a maintainer they can do it for you next service.
  6. Clearly a few things are wrong here. The jamming is the most difficult to resolve in finding the source of the jamming. However, I would be concerned with the whole installation if a bell tamper occurs on activation. Could be overload, something wired wrong, switch inside the bell; a number of things. Time to get the multimeter out and ricochet monitor setup, assuming it's a self install.
  7. The device in question has had a comms issue and then probably drained out. If you have a maintainer it's something to contact them about. It will not clear or arm as the device is missing, the panel can't contact it.
  8. They should be recharged from the panel. You may find the bell is just faulty, or your diagnosis is wrong. Usually because of the weathering they take it's more sensible for an engineer to replace the unit if it's not relatively new. Plastics fatigue, piezos get frost damaged, electronics get tired or moisture corrosion. Depends how sheltered the location is.
  9. Get someone that knows what they are doing to look at it?
  10. G3 Odysseys will if they are wired up correctly. When it's in Engineer Hold-Off mode you then work on it, that's the point of the mode. Pulling jumpers will trigger it as power is already applied to the terminals. They are stuck in engineer hold-off mode until you finish, close up and then wait for it to expire or trigger it. Obviously it's still powered so you have to be careful you don't short stuff out or get a kick off the strobe, it's an engineer mode not a user friendly mode.
  11. From what I can make of the smeary image, Guardall Racsal. Possibly the lids not on correctly, can't remember if they have a spring tamper. When replacing the battery you need to check the panels charging circuit isn't faulty with a multimeter. There is more to servicing an alarm than stuffing a battery in every now and then. I certainly wouldn't recommend defaulting if you don't know how to reprogram it, even if you do find a manual. If the memory is scrambled it needs replacing not reprogramming, but I doubt that's the issue anyway. We don't provide defaulting information or manuals here as per our guidelines.
  12. It's usually down to who controls what tho. Who will commission the fire etc. I would always expect one for one unless told and confirmed in writing otherwise. You want to minimise the length of the runs from the fire system and also minimise failures if there is an issue with the loop.
  13. It's been Pink for a little while now. The colours in the regs for DC make little sense but I suppose when they specified and then changed them initially that made no sense either...
  14. You could do it all with one on Paxton but as pointed out it wouldn't conform. Should be an interface local to each door breaking the power directly like with local emergency door releases. Can't rely on the controller or the access network in case it FTO
  15. They were garbage decades ago, programming would go loopy at random. It's not the electricians fault, no system should be affected from a power loss. It wants decommissioning or replacing, even if you fixed the programming it's knackered and unreliable.
  16. Ok so the long version... If the power being removed triggered the alarm then the battery and most likely the charging circuit on the panel is faulty. At this point the external sounder should sound, if it didn't that is also faulty. You then also seem to have a tamper fault which could be related to poking about in the panel or the faulty battery or maybe something else. All these things need a multimeter and some knowledge how to use one to confirm and pin point the issue and clear the lockout. Systems that have been unmaintained for long periods of time are usually best to be re-evaluated and upgraded.
  17. You don't bounce as well the older you get, I think everyone becomes more aware of that.
  18. In short it sounds like there are a few things not working correctly. I'd either remove it or get someone to upgrade it with the building works in mind.
  19. Ah a question... Yes I'd say most old ADE stuff I see is tired and has either no or very low charging rate. Every battery replacement should come with checking the charging rate and off mains change over, it's pointless and wasteful throwing a new battery in for it to drain out.
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