sixwheeledbeast

"Never have we been so connected and yet so lonely" People no longer associate shouting at people on twitter as there being another human at the other end... Face to face conversations about polarising topics with nuance and respect are getting a rare occurrence in day to day life... People are put in there own social media minority bubbles grouped by advertising algorithms, they are living in an echo chamber of there own opinions until they feel like a majority... IMO, I could go on...

Assuming if you wait 90 seconds or so and then the keypad will allow disarming... then you have some DD243/BS8243 setting enabled to lockout the keypad on entry.

Any and all. It could be the PSU but I'd expect to see more in the log. Alarm wiring shorting to mains earth (earth fault) can pull all the zones low. Need more to go on really, just assumptions with very little info.

Never taken one apart but I'd agree I'd certainly have a crack at repairing it considering the cost.

I wasn't suggesting this caused the fault, but it would lock the system out until you reset it. I'd be using my meter checking all the voltages or maybe for signs of an earth fault or interference.

Tamper engineer reset maybe on...

Is there anything else in the log either side of this? Are these panel zones or an expander? What's on the system?

You have likely blown a fuse, why you have power going to the contact is beyond me tho. The codes are unlikely to be the default ones so pointless trying them unless you know that's right.

What doesn't work?

It's Risco, they go loopy... I don't like waste but they are generally panels I prefer to bin than takeover.

System may have had settings programmed in the router. I'd imagine you have an installer, you'll need to contact them.

From what I recall there is a menu somewhere else to add a Custom Name to the Zone Types list.

A Texecom Live panel would likely replace it like for like but most professional kit with remote access is subscription via a registered installer. Someone has to pay for the servers and secure network to route all this remote access traffic. Burn marks on the PCB are likely due to age and not having it serviced regularly.

They use Perimeter and Interior terminology like the Powermax from what I recall.

The PCB material makes me think 70s. The capacitors maybe look more modern? It's probably hard to date if they would have been hand built and low batch numbers?

Radiovisor specialised in Active IR beams. Never seen any so old tho. They work as a pair. Usually an IR beam is emitted then reflected back it detects if something blocks this.

I suppose these are using proprietary Crypto1 format? If so maybe look at the documentation from the people that RE'd it?

The interference reed switch will make it tamper. Unit needs closing up and the magnet part the correct way around on the correct side of the reed part. You'll have fun re-installing it too if you plan to do that.

Spoons watered down, you want Export.

For someone with all the kit and knowledge you seem to assume a lot, instead of diagnosing it. We may as well speak into the void at this point. Your repeating the same thing and clearly not reading or taking in what people are saying, your the one with the issue and looking for help...

It's in the manual, Type 1 or 2 copper intruder cable. So CQR Pro 8 or equiv. This should be tripled up in most cases. The transmission is TTL, you can expect occasional network errors, it logs them until you reset them. Something is wrong if you are watching them tick up live.

It's still seems like you have not tried what I suggested but whatever... Send it back is the easy option.

I have already said what you have is not normal. Have you tried what I suggested... There is still plenty more to prove, before I would consider hardware altho that's not to say you haven't actually got a duff panel/SMPS like I already said. You keep saying you question the kit but if issues like this happened to other companies in the field people wouldn't be buying them...

Well you came asking for help and your disregarding what you are told by people that work with this stuff every day. I have told you how to rule this out and some things to check, there are further things that need ruling out but it's not normal. To expand on MrH above, as a rule of thumb I would expect each power supply to have <~500mA quiescent per 7Ah battery to conform to BS EN; this is aside to your issue.

Battery load test is done daily with a delay in hours, the duration of this load test is in secs usually 10, it's not software! You have too much kit on the system, you have used CCA cable which isn't recommended, it's a SMPS so will get choppy under heavy load. It's my standard kit and it's not normal behaviour so your speaking to the wrong people. It also sounds like you have bought the kit second hand or old stock and can't get it to work, there is a possibility you've been past off with old stock with a duff PSU being V6. Either way there are clearly installation issues. The kit isn't designed for DIY installation and neither is the Smartcom. You also need to use a proper multimeter not wintex if your diagnosing this stuff.