sixwheeledbeast

Battery load test is done daily with a delay in hours, the duration of this load test is in secs usually 10, it's not software! You have too much kit on the system, you have used CCA cable which isn't recommended, it's a SMPS so will get choppy under heavy load. It's my standard kit and it's not normal behaviour so your speaking to the wrong people. It also sounds like you have bought the kit second hand or old stock and can't get it to work, there is a possibility you've been past off with old stock with a duff PSU being V6. Either way there are clearly installation issues. The kit isn't designed for DIY installation and neither is the Smartcom. You also need to use a proper multimeter not wintex if your diagnosing this stuff.

I'd assume both issues are connected, you shouldn't see large amounts of network errors. I'd expect to increase if more data is being transferred and will spill over to other network devices like you see tho. If the voltage line is dipping to near 10v quickly but intermittently it will show as data corruption and not a tamper. A list of things to consider:- Is it CCA cable? Have you tripled the power? Voltage at the last expander? What are the network lights doing? Did you factory default when you flashed? What is the hardware revision of the panel and PSU? Checked for an earth loop? Assuming the basics like cable and volt drop is fine, you can find out if these are related issues temporarily by simply ditching the +ve from the network and hooking up a clean power source like a fully charged battery from the other end of the network. I'd say you have far too much kit on one PSU if these are powered devices.

You can't, they are designed that way...!

Found on the set of 'allo 'allo...

Concerned about competence to do this with the questions your asking and also as it's the DIY section... From what you say I assume it's a PE48. You should do auxiliary equipment like this with isolators adjacent the control panel. So an output drives a transistorised relay for the "armed" and "primary" but go via an isolating keyswitch for testing. You don't explain what brand sensor you are using but I would have it drive a relay with the relay output connected to the "secondary". All of this stuff would have it's own 12v boxed supply and electrically isolated (galvanic) from the Texecom system.

Never on mobile but nothing seems broken yet ?

Even insurance with no idea specify "Redcare or equivalent"... They were the market leader years ago and priorities change, there wasn't much they could do with the product the downsides were part of it's design. Agile/Secure mitigated that for years. Without Redcare Classic they are no longer tied to doing security, to people higher up its probably easier to fold at this point. I think you underestimate how much encryption you use on a daily basis...

Really? Encryption is fundamental to any secure data that needs transmitting, this concept does back centuries to well before computers. Original Redcare was an amazing product back in the day, it would work over wet string, had continuous encrypted signalling and 30s polling with no data costs. Nothing will be able to copy it, it requires having the infrastructure. Obviously there were downsides to the product which will explain the wind down. Everyone is jumping on the massive strength of the Redcare brand to sell there new tat. The product name is known fairly well outside the industry.

It's not just 1 contact tho, it's 3... EOL will be wired different at the controls end. Assuming this is three single doors, convert your 6-core into a data line for an expander adjacent to the first door, take single cables from the expander to each door. Wire it however you want not sure if Orisec supports DP from an Exp. EOL would be better but you could have issues with stuffing 1/4W resistors in tiny old style contacts if your reusing them. Most would replace the contacts. Program panel accordingly. This has the benefits of:- single fault will only take out one door, you can isolate doors individually, you know which door has an alarm or fault without taking the lot to bits, your cable to the sheds is a data line instead of DP so it's tampered in a better way.

I just wouldn't, especially on a modern panel with more options. One zone per device, so you can diagnose any problems. Your sketch seems alright assuming it's DP, time to get the multimeter out take everything apart and work out what's going on.

Why not just use an unmanaged PoE switch at that money...

There is always something else to do...

Date code on the box seems to be Mid October '93 Don't know much about them.

Been given 2 of these, both new but tatty boxes Before I consider them as WEEE I thought I'd document them for the nerds here. Didn't find much info on them from searching.

They are not ideal but they don't really do a lot hence the cost. Shuffle the pins around but you'll get less speed and wattage

Most wired sirens are compatible with wired systems but keeping the same manufacturer means you are likely to have instructions for how to connect there own. Have you proved it's actually the siren at fault?

Tell me something I haven't been ranting about for years...

Having listened to the podcast already it's not related, images came from social media. It will take a defence lawyer to get the evidence thrown out on possible deepfake grounds, for change to happen. If you handle evidence properly with decent kit it shouldn't be an issue.

Don't believe stainless for cable tackers is a thing. Regular galv or painted white is all I have ever seen.

IXP is for third party kit. IProx can't be wireless so I don't see why keypad would be, also a wireless keypad will depend on what other wireless equipment you fit as to if you have capacity at the expander.

I'd be surprised a house with a flush keypad fitted would only need 3 sensors... If your having a company in it's no good recommending kit, they will use what they support. If you found somewhere reliable that supports Galaxy then less repair work. Usual recommendation is 3 quotes, go with the place that makes you feel the most comfortable NOT just the cheapest.

Sound bombs are bin fodder. It sounds like something that has high enough risk that I'd be thinking needs signalling.

There can be unforeseen planning permission issues and they are unnecessary light pollution. You can fit them without connecting the backlight on the X's, but can purchase the twin siren non-X ones for similar price. Covering a new box with what I guess is some old C-Type cover would remove the deterrent of a shiny new box and reduce sound output. If you are thinking of not buying a lid for this sounder it just will not work, they need a compatible lid.

It's a wired panel that could be expanded into wireless with extra kit but it's NOT wireless or hybrid OOTB.

Support for products are for trade installers. 1 Mostly, PCB and Software same. Cab allows larger standby and larger output PSU. 2 iProx will work 3 It's extra outdoor reader, pretty sure it's one external reader per iProx 4 No tags come with iProx 5 Smartcom is compatible but need a trade account to register for Cloud only "DIY option" is GSM-COM 6 Either but neither is Prox 7 This is where you start to seem completely lost - it's just another keypad variant with Prox and yes you'll need a keypad. 8 You haven't got a wireless system, most bells will work but I wouldn't use a backlit one. 9 Again not wireless system and a random Enforcer passive...!? I think you should seriously consider getting a quote for someone to do it, if you value your time and security. Your not sure on product types or what is compatible and how it goes together. Very little of it will come with a manual, some older stock may have a quick leaflet but not the panels. Whatever your trying to do with this iProx stuff will rely on good programming knowledge to get working, I'd query the design.