sixwheeledbeast

I wasn't suggesting this caused the fault, but it would lock the system out until you reset it. I'd be using my meter checking all the voltages or maybe for signs of an earth fault or interference.

Tamper engineer reset maybe on...

Is there anything else in the log either side of this? Are these panel zones or an expander? What's on the system?

You have likely blown a fuse, why you have power going to the contact is beyond me tho. The codes are unlikely to be the default ones so pointless trying them unless you know that's right.

What doesn't work?

It's Risco, they go loopy... I don't like waste but they are generally panels I prefer to bin than takeover.

System may have had settings programmed in the router. I'd imagine you have an installer, you'll need to contact them.

From what I recall there is a menu somewhere else to add a Custom Name to the Zone Types list.

A Texecom Live panel would likely replace it like for like but most professional kit with remote access is subscription via a registered installer. Someone has to pay for the servers and secure network to route all this remote access traffic. Burn marks on the PCB are likely due to age and not having it serviced regularly.

They use Perimeter and Interior terminology like the Powermax from what I recall.

The PCB material makes me think 70s. The capacitors maybe look more modern? It's probably hard to date if they would have been hand built and low batch numbers?

Radiovisor specialised in Active IR beams. Never seen any so old tho. They work as a pair. Usually an IR beam is emitted then reflected back it detects if something blocks this.

I suppose these are using proprietary Crypto1 format? If so maybe look at the documentation from the people that RE'd it?

The interference reed switch will make it tamper. Unit needs closing up and the magnet part the correct way around on the correct side of the reed part. You'll have fun re-installing it too if you plan to do that.

Spoons watered down, you want Export.

For someone with all the kit and knowledge you seem to assume a lot, instead of diagnosing it. We may as well speak into the void at this point. Your repeating the same thing and clearly not reading or taking in what people are saying, your the one with the issue and looking for help...

It's in the manual, Type 1 or 2 copper intruder cable. So CQR Pro 8 or equiv. This should be tripled up in most cases. The transmission is TTL, you can expect occasional network errors, it logs them until you reset them. Something is wrong if you are watching them tick up live.

It's still seems like you have not tried what I suggested but whatever... Send it back is the easy option.

I have already said what you have is not normal. Have you tried what I suggested... There is still plenty more to prove, before I would consider hardware altho that's not to say you haven't actually got a duff panel/SMPS like I already said. You keep saying you question the kit but if issues like this happened to other companies in the field people wouldn't be buying them...

Well you came asking for help and your disregarding what you are told by people that work with this stuff every day. I have told you how to rule this out and some things to check, there are further things that need ruling out but it's not normal. To expand on MrH above, as a rule of thumb I would expect each power supply to have <~500mA quiescent per 7Ah battery to conform to BS EN; this is aside to your issue.

Battery load test is done daily with a delay in hours, the duration of this load test is in secs usually 10, it's not software! You have too much kit on the system, you have used CCA cable which isn't recommended, it's a SMPS so will get choppy under heavy load. It's my standard kit and it's not normal behaviour so your speaking to the wrong people. It also sounds like you have bought the kit second hand or old stock and can't get it to work, there is a possibility you've been past off with old stock with a duff PSU being V6. Either way there are clearly installation issues. The kit isn't designed for DIY installation and neither is the Smartcom. You also need to use a proper multimeter not wintex if your diagnosing this stuff.

I'd assume both issues are connected, you shouldn't see large amounts of network errors. I'd expect to increase if more data is being transferred and will spill over to other network devices like you see tho. If the voltage line is dipping to near 10v quickly but intermittently it will show as data corruption and not a tamper. A list of things to consider:- Is it CCA cable? Have you tripled the power? Voltage at the last expander? What are the network lights doing? Did you factory default when you flashed? What is the hardware revision of the panel and PSU? Checked for an earth loop? Assuming the basics like cable and volt drop is fine, you can find out if these are related issues temporarily by simply ditching the +ve from the network and hooking up a clean power source like a fully charged battery from the other end of the network. I'd say you have far too much kit on one PSU if these are powered devices.

You can't, they are designed that way...!

Found on the set of 'allo 'allo...

Concerned about competence to do this with the questions your asking and also as it's the DIY section... From what you say I assume it's a PE48. You should do auxiliary equipment like this with isolators adjacent the control panel. So an output drives a transistorised relay for the "armed" and "primary" but go via an isolating keyswitch for testing. You don't explain what brand sensor you are using but I would have it drive a relay with the relay output connected to the "secondary". All of this stuff would have it's own 12v boxed supply and electrically isolated (galvanic) from the Texecom system.