sixwheeledbeast

So it is tat after all... Odd how different the PCB design is for a "clone"

Do those support DP? Haven't seen a comet before. It may "work" then, even if I don't rate Rokonet. Still, everything else stands.

Expensive tat? Never seen them before and there is no image I can find from a quick search of the internals. Doubt they conform to BS EN. No PIR is truly pet "immune", it also relies on the system design being able to take these replacements. Many would recommend the system should be redesigned to perimeter to suit your pets. In some instances they can work, I only rate Bosch for pet friendly. https://www.securitywarehouse.co.uk/catalog/intruder-alarm-c-36/movement-detectors-c-36_116/all-c-36_116_37/bosch-blue-line-gen2-pet-friendly-passiveinfrared-detector-p-2637.html I'd advise you speak to an installer to look at the system, if you don't want the hassle of false alarms.

What sensors? Sounds incompatible or not for intruder.

You'll take it all apart and it will likely (if working correctly) make noise until you have finished or until the noise pollution timer kicks in. There is no magic disable button or menu that makes it easy to disable, back doors like that could be exploited.

8 sirens? I would say the outputs are programmed incorrectly but can the panel even support all this stuff your trying to power.

From what I see resistor will be required, from a TAMP to -ve in the new box. The relay would be in the panel labelled Sounder and the common side will likely be -ve. Old box has the strobe and bell trig wired together from what I can see these are separate in the new box, hence 6 wires not 4.

You'll only need the 6 terminals with old wiring in if that helps. Is the resistor in the old box? Does the PX use the sounder relay for the bell?

Never liked them in red, look nice in race trim. Yellow looks alright but I wouldn't have a yellow car, get followed around by bees and wasps on every warm day.

It's ungraded DIY tat that sends all your data to Amazon?

Installers are usually only trained on the kit they install, yes they are all similar to a degree but you pick up the little quirks each system has when you fit the same kit regularly. I would usually say if your not happy with your service tell them your not happy and why, if they can't resolve it find someone else. As you have started poking in the panel already your unlikely to get much help from them without it being considered a takeover so you maybe best to move on.

I don't like throwing away serviceable kit but I rarely want to take on Risco kit; from experience it's flaky at best. No decent system is officially end user supported, they are pretty much all trade only products. If you want cloud accounts this usually has to be via registered installers. You'd be better to find a new installer than shopping for another panel, installers are trained on their manufacturer of choice. You may find one happy to work with what you have.

Ear defenders and a big hammer until it's stopped making a noise? At that age fixings and hardware are usually seized. Disturbing any tamper circuit on a siren should trigger external and internal alarms. They are all different designs for the electronics inside, we are not a resource to teach people how to disable systems... The strobe is usually high voltage and will knock you off your ladders, so be careful what you poke.

If you don't plan on using it you should have it decommissioned. This involves getting up to the external siren and disabling that and powering down the internal components. It's possible with it not being serviced in so long the charger circuit is faulty which would need a panel replacement. You would be best to have the system serviced, to make sure it's still in serviceable condition or decommissioned. 1) Yes 2) No 3) Maybe, but if the memory is lost then the panel is shot anyway. 4?) Unlikely

I agree with the engineer at the time, if you have had regular maintenance on the system, it's been looked after and it's serviceable that's fine. It's the building work that you then need to re-evaluate this decision. The design may need reconsidering depending on what works, disturbing older components is bound to lead to faults and headaches in the near future. Depending on what type of work you are doing, I would have someone in after structural stuff is done. They may get an opportunity to get some cables in or checked over before walls/floors are finished. Pricing will vary based on location, kit spec and any company approval. If you are happy with and trust the place you have been using they are best to ask first.

External sounders are designed to sound if you tamper with them, doesn't matter if the mains is on or off it's the same. You need to know what your doing to disable it, otherwise you will be fighting with it while it's blasting away. Tampers are closed circuits so it's not just the case of removing wiring. The budget, simplest but annoying solution would be to power down the system, mains and battery which will still trigger the external alarm for 15 minutes. However, at this point it will be dead you can continue with the building work, with no system for now. I would look at quotes for upgrading what you have and maybe decommission the system at the same time. Most companies are likely to have separate engineering and design/quoting departments, so expect multiple visits. In short, the sensible thing would be to get someone out, yes. The system is old and should be looking towards an upgrade of at least the electronic bits for reliability.

Ebay will give you a higher chance of finding junk but ok... KVM style is the type, others are just passive which will be no better than an extension cable. Used ones with HDMI passthrough for a local and remote monitor plus USB / IR both ways over single Cat6.

They come in pairs require local power and send both over UTP. Distance varies based on Category of the cable Cat5e/Cat6 etc. Search "HDMI/USB over Cat5" If you don't go the full system route you will end up buying convertors or other tat to get all the functionality you want to retain to work if it's compatible at all. It's highly possible the PTZ aspect or some of this functionality you have is not really required. Hard to say without seeing the site, you make the site sound like an average detached domestic property with neighbours, while what you explain of the system feels like it was designed back in the 90's, for a scrapyard with night guards...

It's been said before but your going have much less hassle installing a full system with kit all matched together. Some decent IP turrets will send and receive audio and alarms from the camera itself using TCP/IP. No messing about trying to make different manufacturers compatible with each other. Single wire to each location with options of better image quality over 4-format turrets. Unlikely to get more than 10-15m out of USB peripherals without some conversion. Have used HDMI/USB combiners myself to solve similar.

Engineer would be liable for any fault leading to injury or death just like with fire, so I would refuse to do any of it without correct training. Plenty of jail sentences and fines in the news... Also insurance for the company is higher if you add gates to your services, either specialise and train correctly for it or sub IMO. Gate-safe is one path of training, which is a ECS discipline. https://www.hse.gov.uk/work-equipment-machinery/powered-gates/safety.htm https://www.hse.gov.uk/safetybulletins/poweredgates.htm https://gate-safe.org/ As above suppliers will have their own scheme but it's going to be based on their supplied kit.

Yer ... fixings maybe but worth more than the initial outlay saving as van stock. Maglocks, passives, panels and keypads and then not knowing what you paid for them, less so...

Sounds like someone else over specced and it ended up in your van...

There isn't, you agree terms when you take on the work.

The switch would usually have to be closed, it's not sensible disabling it really. If the sounder isn't suitable for the fixing surface then make it suitable or use a better bellbox.

AIUI in that situation it's still all the same rules and repayments but HMRC no longer have access to your tax code or income, so you have to provide evidence. If you disappear your rate is charged the maximum monthly amount and you are charged interest on late payments.