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Everything posted by sixwheeledbeast

  1. I try to avoid flush on external in case of moisture. If I have to sealed type to a JB would be my preferred.
  2. Going off what I recall of previous thread, above was already suggested plus pets.
  3. This is the sensible solution, you will then have an idea on coverage and also setup instructions to work from to make your decision. You don't always have an opening where it maybe the best location to place a shock. So normally separate unless you know the kit will work there. Wireless are often combined units depending on manufacturer, but you have a bit more flexibility with aesthetics then because no wires. Not saying you should fit wireless, just a observation that you can then have everything fitted and worry about positioning after with wireless.
  4. I would probably go separate unless aesthetics determines otherwise, would need to see the frames to work out positioning of shocks then you can go from there. If positioning of shock means you can't use combined that answers your question. Either way if combined I'd want something that signals activations from each detection separately.
  5. Get the masking tape and deck farnish out
  6. Good for selling CCTV and also recommend drive bollards if they have keyless. I wouldn't have one, don't do contactless cards either. Usually recommend putting keys in fridge, microwave could cause a pop if switched on for some strange reason. Hard drive antistatic bags work ok for contactless cards and light sets of keys. Even without keys in range some cars will disappear if targeted before hand and no physical security.
  7. All systems should show alarm, tamper and (if radio) battery faults separately, it's an important part of diagnosing a false alarm event. Unless you wire something up wrong, an alarm is the sensor triggering be that a fault or the environment.
  8. As I said above just ignore it. Not used zones will not matter.
  9. The terms "Interior" and "Bypass" are not UK English terms, 816 was part of "International series" panels. Factory default as instructions is factory default so everything as factory... I think your just getting confused with Wintex or something? You probably only need to make the spare zones Not Used and test regarding wiring type.
  10. I don't believe there is anything wrong with the components, something is just not programmed or wired correctly from what I can gather. Use the factory default procedure as explained in the manual, we don't provide default information here. I am assuming this isn't a UK system as the language is not set to UK English? You also mention a 816 which isn't a UK panel. Or maybe the Elite24 is UK English but you last screenshots are a 816?
  11. I'd say above. Could default and start again, then only program out what has no wires. This rules out all the settings you've played with. I don't believe Zone Status updates in Wintex if set Not Used?
  12. I don't see a point in doing these tests if your wiring DEOL anyway? Put all the network and system back and work on each fault. Reset and see what is left. Repeat.
  13. Anything is "possible" with some hacky workarounds, wouldn't be recommended at all tho. As explained your Accenta has no concept of TCP/IP
  14. Sensors don't bleep like a smoke detector, although it's possible the panel could if unset with an issue. Systems are not designed to be easily disabled, you would have to get up to every device. You should have your system serviced correctly and then use your system while your away.
  15. Look nice for DIY'ers. Seems a bit on the expensive side for what they are, can buy small metal brackets or 30m of fixy band for that money. I understand thought has gone into making them universal, but too easy to unscrew and take the device for security systems.
  16. Touched on that in this thread recently. 360's are generally used where wall mounting is unsuitable.
  17. Would say you have common sense for that... sparks and hotness would be a bad time.
  18. Was thinking a battery but yes not the system incase the devices are faulty.
  19. Are you in the UK? Not a brand seen here. It could be the output is blown if it's been overloaded? Put 12v on the sounders see if they work?
  20. Depends where and what terminals your testing. Also what panel and type of sounder(s) would be helpful. For external sounders there is a constant hold off voltage plus a negative trigger.
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