sixwheeledbeast

It's the same amount of time as points.

Only ever had poll failures here.

Visonic Powermaster Keypad?

http://arstechnica.com/information-technology/2016/05/microsoft-bangs-the-final-nail-in-nokia-devices-coffin-fires-the-last-1850-workers/ FYI for those of you that use them.

Permitted by whom?

Yes Powermaster is two way

Swapping a URL for a IP would suggest DNS resolve issues.

Uninterestingly I know the type you mean I have seen them in other Halifax branches. The ones I have seen in the branches years ago have since been replaced for Prox. It's 12 buttons in a circle, square about as wide as a 9500 keypad and I assumed you remember the number using positions on a clock? Absolutely no idea on make model etc.

I have always used Auto for PIR's and Hybrid for DT's that's what has always been recommended and never had issues. The newer panels automagically program the correct wireless mode on enrolment, so hard to get wrong.

I would guess Trade Only Download, no idea if it still works but would assume so.

Powermaster compatible kit, bell if wired could be any.

There all the same I believe, the number is how many devices you can have?

I rate Avocet they would be the Euro barrel of choice. Between Powermax and Powermaster it has to be the latter, it's two way other isn't, simple as.

I would be replacing the locks for 3 Star rated Euro at least, anyway.

Yes built in dialler on Powermax

Part sets?

Adapt and Conquer, industry is fecked IMO.

Also have a good read of the PIR manual and make sure your mounting heights and settings are correct before fitting.

Best to have PIRs facing into the room away from the windows where possible. So ideally need to be in the opposite corners, but imagine it would be fine.

Perimeter protection for pets where possible IMO. Otherwise Bosch Blu Line for pet detectors. Expect it to be a learning curve, we have seen many IT bods come and go over the years... Com-Wifi best set up on a VPN and would recommend LAN instead card if possible to wire.

Eh? I think we have both read this differently. I see this as A (the LED) and B (the relay output). I assume there is no power at B, A would be easiest place to locate PSU as it can go in the cab. One run of 200m 2C 1mm should do the job?

Run +ve from the supply to a panel mount QB fuse in the panel, out through the relay and back to the LED. -ve straight to the LED

It doesn't matter where the relay is there will still be current through the switch to trigger the relay. Yes, so they will have there CLR built in so need a 24Vdc or 12Vdc supply to your panel mount. You need to calculate the resistance of the cable you are using and use V = I/R I imagine 1mm 2C flex would be fine with such a small load on 24Vdc.

Would need to be DC for LED unless you want it to flash at 50Hz? What kind of LED, how much current? Then you can work out volt drop.

The camera will most likely be set to 30mph limits. The LA will have thrown some 20 ZONE signs about thinking that will instantly stop little Jimmy from getting run over, possibly due to residential pressure. All 20 MPH ZONE areas must have regular traffic calming measures throughout the stretch of road, build outs, bumps, chicanes etc etc, to indicate it's not national speed limit (i.e. 30 built-up area). This is not to be confused with 20 MPH areas that should have regular repeaters on both sides of the road throughout the section. Reminds me of a women in the local rag a few weeks ago calling for speed humps and 20 MPH on a major A road (built-up 30mph). A youth had stolen a car, lost control at speed, ploughing through her front window at 3 am. She was interviewed and one of the arguments for the speed humps was that cars regularly come round the corner too fast while she is reversing off her drive. She wants her license ripping up if she things it's acceptable to reverse off her drive on to an A road that's unsighted, built up or not. No mention of how speed humps will stop cars being driven recklessly...