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malfoy

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About malfoy

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  1. Never mind, found the screw behind the strobe light!! Saved it from the happer/hammer
  2. I'm about to replace my old alarm system with a Texecom. Looking at the old external bell, there doesn't appear to be any visiable means of fastening - can't see any caps etc that may be covering the screws. Could it just be a pushed on?? The cover is completely faded so no manufacturers names! I can just take a happer to it but wanted to remove it properly - then can use it as a dummy at the back of the house. Thanks.
  3. Thanks @sixwheeledbeast. Did that plus more (see reply to @secureiam ) but still no go.
  4. @secureiam Address switch is set to 1 but I tried 2 as well. On the panel side Tx is solid on and Rx is flashing On the 8XP Rx (Data from Panel) pulses - about once a second) Tx (Data to panel) is OFF Yes, the wiring from the Panel is connected to "Network In" On the possibility I had done something wrong, I swapped the wiring around with the Keypad. Keypad still works but 8xp is still not working. And each time I make a change I "Confirm Device" in the Engineers Utils on the keypad but when I check the status on the keypad it still shows Expan
  5. Yes, went into the Engineers options and confirmed devices. Strange thing is that while it displays a 1 against the RKP , the EXP is all dots. I've tried setting the Expander to Network device 1 and 2. Thanks
  6. Hi, I'm bench testing my new alarm system. Have a Premier Elite 24, LCDP Keypad, COM-IP, Premier DT PIR. The panel is working with the keypad and PIRS (tried contecting a couple of them). I can connect using Wintex from my PC to the panel and program it. I got a Premier Elite 8XP remote expander. I connect it to the panel to the Network connectors (same place the keypad is connected) and power up. The 8XP powers up but doesn't connect to the network (Wintex diagnostics tell me it's offline). Also the LEDs on the 8XP are : LED A: Flashing LED B: Off LED C: On
  7. Thanks. I acutally did wonder about that and having read up on it, that may be the better solution: It's easier to wire up a PIR than the shock sensors unless I go with a wireless expander.
  8. Thanks everyone. I think from my point of view there's two reasons for the hallway PIR. There is the small cloakroom with entry from the hallway which has a window - so the PIR covers anyone getting access that way as well as the entry door. The other one is the reminder the alarm is on. Saved me many times when we have guest staying overnight: Even though you tell them the alarm is on, I can't remember the number of times they head down at 6am. The hallway PIR has acted as a wake up alarm so I can run down and turn it off . I had one other question - what's your opinion on PIRs in the be
  9. Thanks for the advice. I looked at the Bosch Blue line and they look good so think I might switch to them instead. And the ComIP is probably better as you say, I think I can get an ethernet cable to the panel so will look at using that instead.
  10. Thanks. Appreciate the advice. I'm trying to do as much research as I can on everything before I press the button to buy the kit. I'm sure I'll come across things I don't understand. My plan is to keep it simple as possible to begin with and I might need to ask the odd question here if I get stuck on the terminology.
  11. Thanks for the advice. There are almost no radiators downstairs, just one in the hallway on the right wall (wall shared with utility room) and one in the office under the window. For the PIRs I was going to take sixwheeledbeast's advice in another thread to use Bosch Blu Line for pet detectors since they can cope better with temperature variations - hence it should cope with the hallway radiator. I'll try and put as many as I can facing inwards. The panel is in the garage at the moment and I was planning on leaving it there to save rewiring the whole thing. I've already have a not
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