sixwheeledbeast

A router with Multi-WAN should stop any downtime on your internet. You in theory can have triple path signalling, each path is an improvement and decreases the chance of downtime thus lost signals. The issue with all this type of kit is polling, without regular polling you have no way of knowing if your system is doing it's job when your away.

It's a bad idea to work that way IMO. Each installer has preferred kit for a few reasons, including engineers will be trained on it and they will have spare parts in stock. Looking for a manufacturer may force an installer to fit kit they have never used or tested and will only cause you hassle. Best to get three quotes for systems, consider wired over wireless and if you do go wireless that's fine but make sure all components are two way. Consider ongoing maintenance and what's included in the service when looking at price. Go with the company you feel the most comfortable with not necessarily the cheapest.

Are you looking for an installer or are you definitely going to DIY? If you are looking for an installer you should go with what they recommend and support. If you are going DIY expect to have headaches and feckups along the way.

I would agree that a flashing strobe is a sign of a vacant property and would use a separate output or the bell trig for the strobe. I can see the pros and cons to the argument, however, you are likely to notice signs of a break in before or while entering the property.

The Premier 640 or the Metal Box? https://www.securitywarehouse.co.uk/catalog/texecom-premier-640-panel-grade3-p-392.html

Just to clarify, the panel stands off from the wall with four plastic feet, in most situations cables would enter from the rear of the cab. Agree with DD on the 17Ah's also

All the devices have breakout tampers that should be used. Mechanical protection should be as per wiring regulations. BTW I hate when the bottom knockouts are used on Premier cabs, causes hassle if you need to put larger batteries in there. The mains connection has it's own hole adjacent the mains connection. Grading would only be relevant for a company installing a system for you. This is based on a RA that the company would do. DIY effectively voids any grading, you can fit to Grade 2 standards but means very little.

You're unlikely to get much help with your DIY product here. Most professional installers will have never played with one. If you are having issues and it's not fit for purpose I suggest you take it back to Maplin's with your receipt

Nothing really interesting or hard to come by there IMO. You can still buy all the Texecom gear you have BNIB.

Omnicon and the Video entry I have played with in the past, both probably still in service.

Hmm ... I have plenty of old tat but none in that condition.

Just seen an interesting white paper on studies that have shown you can be identified by your interaction with WiFi signals. http://arxiv.org/pdf/1608.03430v1.pdf If you don't care for reading a white paper the overview is this maybe useful for smart homes of the future and has potential for domestic intruder detection. Will need a fair bit of work before it could be used but the concept could see the end of the movement sensors and domestic security as we know it.

Veritas uses a Veritas K Keypad.

Is the system engineers reset for tampers?

It is advisable to use a static IP that is outside of the pool over DHCP. This sounds like a server side issue that happens on occasion. Linked into your own DDNS service or Static IP with Update IP off is best solution IMO. There is setup required on the panel and with the web interface. If you follow the manual word for word and you understand the terms you shouldn't go wrong. I would switch off the COMWiFi local network while in the interface configuring it. If you do get the ARP issues you mention above and are not sure on clearing them, you can simply reboot everything wait for connection to come back up and then continue.

As petrolhead says and also the listing -> "This cable functions as a signal transmitter, but NOT a signal converter." You need to convert to a composite signal to use the existing modulator. They probably doesn't get used, some are for playback purposes only anyway.

Granny Goggins is most likely listening to The Archers? But yes I have been in that situation explaining how to switch HDMI channels for the sake of the cost of a separate monitor.

If it's as simple as pressing the TV/DTV button on a remote, what's the issue? The image quality will not be HD but it will work like before.

Baluns and POE? If analogue use multiple CAT5's, if IP consider a POE switch?

If you are converting HDMI to a composite signal then the analogue modulator should work fine. Is this the Luxrite LHD DVR or the SPro Six? Also AHD CVI and TVI are analogue but they are not composite BTW.

Dunno I don't like Hik so rarely play with one.

Is Router login and DVR trying to use same http port?

FYI A number of vulnerabilities have been discovered in the Qualcomm chipsets used in many Android handsets from many of the leading manufacturers. Exploitation of these vulnerabilities could allow an unauthorised user to take full control of an Android device but in order to do so an authorised user would first need to install a malicious app. https://www.cert.gov.uk/resources/advisories/advisory-quadrooter-vulnerability-affecting-android/ http://www.cnet.com/news/quadrooter-security-flaws-said-to-affect-over-900-million-android-devices/ http://blog.checkpoint.com/2016/08/07/quadrooter/

Yes, static IP or Dynamic IP you will still need port forwarding unless your using peer-to-peer. Portforward.com is a good start.

I'd rather have a 20 year old scantronic than some modern 1 way wireless tat. All about the risk? Seems like a simple swap like for like, it's the same reason obsolete keypads sell well on ebay. Very easy to swap something like for like, although I have known "engineers" to get this wrong.