sixwheeledbeast

Erh, telephone cable the sign of a professional installation....

It would appear the battery has gone faulty and used your issue. It's possible that the unit is faulty, would be best to have it inspected to make sure the panel has kept it's programming and the panel isn't damaged. A new battery maybe all it needs but without proper testing you will not know if it's likely to do it again.

Engineer on Site maybe?...

Wire the original speaker back in place and forget the sound bomb they are rubbish anyway...

Tag is Yes or you could enable auto yes. Would only need for part sets and omitting.

If your using prox tags you shouldn't need to open the flap at all, unless you need to omit etc.

All encryption can be compromised with enough computing power, having strong passwords is the key to stop attacks. A 128 bit AES key would take billions of years to brute force. WEP and some WPA can be exploited much easier than a WPA2 connection, WEP was flawed in many ways and WPA was a backwards compatible plaster for WEP. All WiFi should be WPA2 which uses AES 256 bit encryption for maximum security. Any site that would share guest access with the rest of the network is asking for trouble.

Opening ports is not the issue IMO it's allowing unencrypted connections within the setup of the app. The COM-IP is very basic so I doubt it's possible to use to pivot attack. When you open a port you increase your attack surface but it doesn't necessarily make you more vulnerable. I recall a similar discussion a while back and layers were mentioned, all security should be in layers and not just on the web.

It's all dependent on the risk, it's unlikely that IP is an attack point for a domestic system at the moment. While I agree security should be at it's best it's likely any burglar will storm in smash stuff to bits and take what they want before you even know what's happened. I would never recommend setting a system via an app but it's what customers want and that's why it's provided as an option.

This only affects systems with the COM-IP or COM-WiFi and therefore ONLY customers who use the Texecom app. There is an Encrypted UDL option but it is not compulsory. I would advise not using any app to set your alarm system or alternatively use a VPN connection if you wish to use the app.

Yep but not for any customers, I would remove and docket any DK attributes found on a maintenance. Found a one way radio garage PIR on double knock a few weeks back, wouldn't operate correctly as PIR would sleep after one knock. Seen contacts on DK too, again all down to engineers being properly trained.

I don't agree any panel can be programmed incorrectly or non-conforming. IMO equipment should be as flexible as possible. Installers should know the regs and more importantly the companies should teach the regs to those installers.

I doubt any professional installer has used or can give much advise on cheap kits like that. Beams I have used have adjustment for this sort of thing but I would expect them to detect any break in the beam especially at walking pace otherwise not FFP IMO.

Powermax

You need to use 360 PIR's that are designed to connect to an intruder alarm system. Many manufacturers make 360's, from memory the most discrete being Scantronic 450, if they still make them.

Uninterestingly I know the type you mean I have seen them in other Halifax branches. The ones I have seen in the branches years ago have since been replaced for Prox. It's 12 buttons in a circle, square about as wide as a 9500 keypad and I assumed you remember the number using positions on a clock? Absolutely no idea on make model etc.

I would guess Trade Only Download, no idea if it still works but would assume so.

Eh? I think we have both read this differently. I see this as A (the LED) and B (the relay output). I assume there is no power at B, A would be easiest place to locate PSU as it can go in the cab. One run of 200m 2C 1mm should do the job?

Run +ve from the supply to a panel mount QB fuse in the panel, out through the relay and back to the LED. -ve straight to the LED

It doesn't matter where the relay is there will still be current through the switch to trigger the relay. Yes, so they will have there CLR built in so need a 24Vdc or 12Vdc supply to your panel mount. You need to calculate the resistance of the cable you are using and use V = I/R I imagine 1mm 2C flex would be fine with such a small load on 24Vdc.

Would need to be DC for LED unless you want it to flash at 50Hz? What kind of LED, how much current? Then you can work out volt drop.

Xeno XDR View File Xeno XDR Submitter sixwheeledbeast Submitted 04/23/2016 Category Miscellaneous

The part arm delay is shared for all part sets. Yes, COMWiFi will do push on there app, make sure you have the correct COMWiFi for your panel (large black aerial).