sixwheeledbeast

The outputs are driven by transistors.

Them gutter bushes work great for normal gutters but from the OP I imagine this is a large lead channel between two roofs. I was thinking thin galv wire mesh rolled into a tube shape?

I wouldn't want it triggering an intruder alarm I would want something separate. There are flood detectors available that maybe able to work for your application. Maybe money would be better spent on the roof? Some way of stopping the leaves and gunk getting in the channel in the first place?

A latch line is a way of having multiple devices of the same type on one zone. The first to active will be indicated when the system is unset, then this clears upon arming. If you don't require the latch line, don't use it the device will work fine.

Wouldn't trust my ISP either...

That's not the point tho, everything internet facing is potentially vulnerable. Sysadmins are paid to create layers and keep one step ahead with patches. If you run your own server only you/your trusted people have the admin access. Any company not just Hik can easily make it so they could access any of there kit in the world that's on the web and use that data, it's all about if you trust that company.

One of the reasons I wouldn't touch Hik.

If that's Ohm's they're either all mounted adjacent the panel on one foot of cable or you didn't disconnect them from the panel before testing?

Premier has a Foyer option just for this type of thing.

DSC?

Yes and Yes, I would just replace it. Lucky if you get 5 year out of them.

The system will get warm near the transformer and regulator (left side) but it's possible the battery is faulty or the system is overloaded. You would have to test this out with a meter. Yep you can remove dialler starting at the panel end first.

...or whatever is rolling about in your van; chewing gum, sticky pads, insulation tape, penny washers all seem to be appropriate methods, if stuff I have ripped out is anything to go by.

Maybe no longer living in Bristol? Anyway I agree, get it serviced and operational or get it decommissioned. Leaving it alone is likely to cause you grief, usually at an inconvenient time.

Shouldn't need to default a panel to replace a keypad. Zone options for Set B can be programmed separately from A, if you know how to program it.

The Zone lights that flash upon arming are the zones that are isolated so sounds like all zones are isolated on part set. I believe you are programming the system the wrong way round hence the issue.

Strobe could flash if there is a fault with the system that needs resetting are you sure there isn't a fault? Have you tried resetting the system?

What model is it? Sounds like it will need reprogramming, best to call your installer for a service and reprogram.

Tamper light is off so no tamper. End station - is the lid on the panel correctly and holding spring in? Probably not issue if no tamper light on. Wired PIR's are pretty standard. All lights go out when armed. So what exactly do you want your PIR to function like in Full and Part modes? I would imagine a normal setup would be Hall PIR on Zone 2, Full is Access and Part is Entry, which is what it seems to be. However, I believe you want Full is Access and Part is Off, correct?

The quick beeps indicating fault can only be 1-10. Is the tamper light on? is the end station closed? was the system working before you connected your pir? have you tried putting it back to before you connected the sensor? Linking the tampers would prove the panel but I doubt it's the panel at fault/.

Number of quick beeps indicates the fault so the exact number is important. All the lights apart from power should be off while setting. From what I can make out of your posts there maybe a tamper fault

Keypad tamper microswitch is open

Please don't double post, mods can always move your post if necessary. Re your question you need to setup which sensors are entry/exit, access and guard for your part arms. This must not be programmed correctly. The hall sensor must be programmed as entry/exit for part set, this would be normal for a Hall PIR so I assume you have a keypad in an alternate location.

Life was simpler back then

Really? I'd say a menu driven thing like Texe is easier to program than a function number type setup for the average joe. I feel the issue with the Texe menu structure is it's got cluttered over the years, so new users find it less intuitive.