sixwheeledbeast

The system will get warm near the transformer and regulator (left side) but it's possible the battery is faulty or the system is overloaded. You would have to test this out with a meter. Yep you can remove dialler starting at the panel end first.

...or whatever is rolling about in your van; chewing gum, sticky pads, insulation tape, penny washers all seem to be appropriate methods, if stuff I have ripped out is anything to go by.

Maybe no longer living in Bristol? Anyway I agree, get it serviced and operational or get it decommissioned. Leaving it alone is likely to cause you grief, usually at an inconvenient time.

Shouldn't need to default a panel to replace a keypad. Zone options for Set B can be programmed separately from A, if you know how to program it.

The Zone lights that flash upon arming are the zones that are isolated so sounds like all zones are isolated on part set. I believe you are programming the system the wrong way round hence the issue.

Strobe could flash if there is a fault with the system that needs resetting are you sure there isn't a fault? Have you tried resetting the system?

What model is it? Sounds like it will need reprogramming, best to call your installer for a service and reprogram.

Tamper light is off so no tamper. End station - is the lid on the panel correctly and holding spring in? Probably not issue if no tamper light on. Wired PIR's are pretty standard. All lights go out when armed. So what exactly do you want your PIR to function like in Full and Part modes? I would imagine a normal setup would be Hall PIR on Zone 2, Full is Access and Part is Entry, which is what it seems to be. However, I believe you want Full is Access and Part is Off, correct?

The quick beeps indicating fault can only be 1-10. Is the tamper light on? is the end station closed? was the system working before you connected your pir? have you tried putting it back to before you connected the sensor? Linking the tampers would prove the panel but I doubt it's the panel at fault/.

Number of quick beeps indicates the fault so the exact number is important. All the lights apart from power should be off while setting. From what I can make out of your posts there maybe a tamper fault

Keypad tamper microswitch is open

Please don't double post, mods can always move your post if necessary. Re your question you need to setup which sensors are entry/exit, access and guard for your part arms. This must not be programmed correctly. The hall sensor must be programmed as entry/exit for part set, this would be normal for a Hall PIR so I assume you have a keypad in an alternate location.

Life was simpler back then

Really? I'd say a menu driven thing like Texe is easier to program than a function number type setup for the average joe. I feel the issue with the Texe menu structure is it's got cluttered over the years, so new users find it less intuitive.

A router with Multi-WAN should stop any downtime on your internet. You in theory can have triple path signalling, each path is an improvement and decreases the chance of downtime thus lost signals. The issue with all this type of kit is polling, without regular polling you have no way of knowing if your system is doing it's job when your away.

It's a bad idea to work that way IMO. Each installer has preferred kit for a few reasons, including engineers will be trained on it and they will have spare parts in stock. Looking for a manufacturer may force an installer to fit kit they have never used or tested and will only cause you hassle. Best to get three quotes for systems, consider wired over wireless and if you do go wireless that's fine but make sure all components are two way. Consider ongoing maintenance and what's included in the service when looking at price. Go with the company you feel the most comfortable with not necessarily the cheapest.

Are you looking for an installer or are you definitely going to DIY? If you are looking for an installer you should go with what they recommend and support. If you are going DIY expect to have headaches and feckups along the way.

I would agree that a flashing strobe is a sign of a vacant property and would use a separate output or the bell trig for the strobe. I can see the pros and cons to the argument, however, you are likely to notice signs of a break in before or while entering the property.

The Premier 640 or the Metal Box? https://www.securitywarehouse.co.uk/catalog/texecom-premier-640-panel-grade3-p-392.html

Just to clarify, the panel stands off from the wall with four plastic feet, in most situations cables would enter from the rear of the cab. Agree with DD on the 17Ah's also

All the devices have breakout tampers that should be used. Mechanical protection should be as per wiring regulations. BTW I hate when the bottom knockouts are used on Premier cabs, causes hassle if you need to put larger batteries in there. The mains connection has it's own hole adjacent the mains connection. Grading would only be relevant for a company installing a system for you. This is based on a RA that the company would do. DIY effectively voids any grading, you can fit to Grade 2 standards but means very little.

You're unlikely to get much help with your DIY product here. Most professional installers will have never played with one. If you are having issues and it's not fit for purpose I suggest you take it back to Maplin's with your receipt

Nothing really interesting or hard to come by there IMO. You can still buy all the Texecom gear you have BNIB.

Omnicon and the Video entry I have played with in the past, both probably still in service.

Hmm ... I have plenty of old tat but none in that condition.