sixwheeledbeast

A latch line is a way of having multiple devices of the same type on one zone. The first to active will be indicated when the system is unset, then this clears upon arming. If you don't require the latch line, don't use it the device will work fine.

Really? I'd say a menu driven thing like Texe is easier to program than a function number type setup for the average joe. I feel the issue with the Texe menu structure is it's got cluttered over the years, so new users find it less intuitive.

The Premier 640 or the Metal Box? https://www.securitywarehouse.co.uk/catalog/texecom-premier-640-panel-grade3-p-392.html

Nothing really interesting or hard to come by there IMO. You can still buy all the Texecom gear you have BNIB.

Omnicon and the Video entry I have played with in the past, both probably still in service.

Is the system engineers reset for tampers?

It is advisable to use a static IP that is outside of the pool over DHCP. This sounds like a server side issue that happens on occasion. Linked into your own DDNS service or Static IP with Update IP off is best solution IMO. There is setup required on the panel and with the web interface. If you follow the manual word for word and you understand the terms you shouldn't go wrong. I would switch off the COMWiFi local network while in the interface configuring it. If you do get the ARP issues you mention above and are not sure on clearing them, you can simply reboot everything wait for connection to come back up and then continue.

DDNS service? Have two static IP's on DSL at Site 1 and VPN 3G site 2 to the other static IP?

All encryption can be compromised with enough computing power, having strong passwords is the key to stop attacks. A 128 bit AES key would take billions of years to brute force. WEP and some WPA can be exploited much easier than a WPA2 connection, WEP was flawed in many ways and WPA was a backwards compatible plaster for WEP. All WiFi should be WPA2 which uses AES 256 bit encryption for maximum security. Any site that would share guest access with the rest of the network is asking for trouble.

Opening ports is not the issue IMO it's allowing unencrypted connections within the setup of the app. The COM-IP is very basic so I doubt it's possible to use to pivot attack. When you open a port you increase your attack surface but it doesn't necessarily make you more vulnerable. I recall a similar discussion a while back and layers were mentioned, all security should be in layers and not just on the web.

It's all dependent on the risk, it's unlikely that IP is an attack point for a domestic system at the moment. While I agree security should be at it's best it's likely any burglar will storm in smash stuff to bits and take what they want before you even know what's happened. I would never recommend setting a system via an app but it's what customers want and that's why it's provided as an option.

This only affects systems with the COM-IP or COM-WiFi and therefore ONLY customers who use the Texecom app. There is an Encrypted UDL option but it is not compulsory. I would advise not using any app to set your alarm system or alternatively use a VPN connection if you wish to use the app.

Yep but not for any customers, I would remove and docket any DK attributes found on a maintenance. Found a one way radio garage PIR on double knock a few weeks back, wouldn't operate correctly as PIR would sleep after one knock. Seen contacts on DK too, again all down to engineers being properly trained.

I don't agree any panel can be programmed incorrectly or non-conforming. IMO equipment should be as flexible as possible. Installers should know the regs and more importantly the companies should teach the regs to those installers.

Uninterestingly I know the type you mean I have seen them in other Halifax branches. The ones I have seen in the branches years ago have since been replaced for Prox. It's 12 buttons in a circle, square about as wide as a 9500 keypad and I assumed you remember the number using positions on a clock? Absolutely no idea on make model etc.

I would guess Trade Only Download, no idea if it still works but would assume so.

Eh? I think we have both read this differently. I see this as A (the LED) and B (the relay output). I assume there is no power at B, A would be easiest place to locate PSU as it can go in the cab. One run of 200m 2C 1mm should do the job?

Run +ve from the supply to a panel mount QB fuse in the panel, out through the relay and back to the LED. -ve straight to the LED

It doesn't matter where the relay is there will still be current through the switch to trigger the relay. Yes, so they will have there CLR built in so need a 24Vdc or 12Vdc supply to your panel mount. You need to calculate the resistance of the cable you are using and use V = I/R I imagine 1mm 2C flex would be fine with such a small load on 24Vdc.

Would need to be DC for LED unless you want it to flash at 50Hz? What kind of LED, how much current? Then you can work out volt drop.

Xeno XDR View File Xeno XDR Submitter sixwheeledbeast Submitted 04/23/2016 Category Miscellaneous

Shouldn't matter about DDNS on these.

These require good knowledge of IT and Premier Panels to setup. Sounds like you have the panel or ComWifi incorrectly programmed. Best I can offer is start again and follow the manual for the ComWifi word for word, reading several times before starting. External Dynamic or Fixed IP will not matter if setup correctly.