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I'm trying to identify what's causing a false trigger on a zone and think it's possibly a contact that's not closing properly (When I close a window slowly, the contact doesn't close, so maybe the magnet is too weak for the spacing., or the reed switch is just gone bad. This is a new problem) Resistance is 9 MOhm for the loop open and 38 ohms it's closed. I would have thought that the 9 MOhm is low and the loop resistance should be higher on open circuit. Weather is really damp, so I'm thinking condensation on the insides of contacts or oxide deposits are contributing to the low reading. Interestingly, resistance is 7 MOhm with probes one way and 9 MOhm with them reversed…

30 odd years ago I fitted an alarm panel at the stables where we kept our daughters pony, as fate would have it she is now got her daughters pony on the same yard. The lady who still owns it is now in her mid 80's & struggling with seeing the keypad to put in the code so I'm after advice on a replacement panel that uses fobs. It doesn't have to be anything special it has 6 zones, including entry/exit, it has a couple of Honeywell AG6's attached, doesn't have a communicator, but the new one needs to use cards/fobs so the keypad doesn't have to be used. Thanks in advance Alan..

Hi, Over the past few years I've been adding smart devices to my home and thought it might be a fun project to upgrade my intruder alarm by making the PIR sensors visible in HomeKit on iOS. This would allow for automations such as custom trigger events that would flash the lights red and having Alexa hurl abuse at intruders, and perhaps play death metal through my AVR on volume 10. (Other intruder deterrent reccommendations welcome.) I have already registered some virtual motion sensors which are visible in the Home app, and programmed a microcontroller to send messages over my local network (through WiFi) that can change the state of the virtual s…

Evening all, I'm installing a Euro 46 V10 panel for a friend, along with the DIGI-LAN communicator for app capability. I've fitted a few of these Pyronix (and previously Castle) panels before, but I'm a bit stumped with the conflicting instructions that came with communicator and the panel. Below is the an excerpt from the DIGI-LAN installation manual: As you can see it suggests to use the included power cable to get power from the Aux 12v terminal. (Assuming Euro 46 App and V10 are the same thing in this case.) Below is an excerpt from the 'communications guide' that came with the Euro 46 V10: Now it's telling me not to hook up the po…

Hi, I have a scantronic 9800 alarm system. It has served me well over the last 30 odd years. I installed it myself and have updated it several times over the years. A few weeks ago I noticed that the exit tone had gone from intermittent to continuous. Didn't think to much of it as everything is still working. Then I noticed I was getting the exit sound on B and C part set. When I had some time I decided to check the programming as I also have some new detectors to add. Well the engineering code didn't work. I tried all options including the factory default, no luck. So I opened the alarm and cleared the code using the user code which still works, it isn't the default…

Hi, I have a Risco alarm system which is hardwired. The battery backup has failed so I bought a new replacement battery 12V 7Ah Yuasa NP7-12L I took the front cover off and was surprised to find a 12V 3.4 Ah battery inside. Although the 12V 7Ah Yuasa will just about fit into the casing, the alarm connectors are too small for the battery terminals. This looked like a red flag to me so I wanted to ask some advice... Should I bin the bigger NP7 and re-purchase another 12V 3.4Ah battery ? Thanks SMc

I have just fitted a Scantronic i-on10 with the KP01 Keypad. All is working well but I have a question regarding the keypad backlight settings. I can enable or disable the backlight by going into the local menu on the keypad. The instructions state that disabling the backlight at the keypad allows the settings in the installer menu to specify the backlight mode, these being On, Off, Timed & Brightness. I have disabled the backlight in the local menu on the keypad but cannot find the backlight options in the installer menu. Following the i-on10 configuration guide my understanding is that the option should be under Dectectors/Devices, Wired…

Hi Guys, I have the NVR DS-7608NI-K2-8P and i have 2 spare ports and i have these Hikvision Analogue camera and i want to use them, so i can use all the ports, so 8 cameras NVR i have, at the moment i am using 6 cameras, so 2 spare ports available. What is best way of doing it, as my IP camera were just RJ45 plug and play, but i am not sure about this or i can use the CAT 5 to BNC Passive Video Balun Video and Power Converters - 2-Piece RG59 / RJ45 Cat5e. Do i need to use an encoder and how do you need install the Encoder and can this be fitted inside the junction box of the rear of the camera to hide the encoder and would it be powered by …

Hi Guys, I have the Dome camera and the one at the back where it is very dark, as it is Alleyway, the camera gets spots and the visibility is not that clear. I was told this happens due to infra red giving off heat and causing spots on the lens and the visibility is not clear as it should and lot of regular cleaning to do due to white spots appears. I wish i went for Turret camera to avoid this issue. My front dome camera is ok, as i dont have any issue, as i live on the main road and the road lightning might be helping and not using much of the IR light, so no white spots on this camera. It is only happening on the rear of the property and 2 dome camera i am having …

Hi all, I am aware I can set a control timer, and have the system arm/disarm via it - but I can't see a way to make it use part set. With Texecom Connect, I can set an app timer, and that can set "Part Set" but doesn't appear to let me select which of the three part set options I can have. Is there a way to have a timer with a choice of part set? TIA ?

Afternoon all. Long time since I posted on here. Problem I'm having a with Texecom Veritas Excel panel is that zone 8 on the panel seems to be faulty in that I can set the alarm without anything connected across the zone. I've removed the wiring at the panel end and have checked for continuity with the door opened / closed and it's exactly as it should be but I can still set the alarm with the door opened. As stated, the alarm will even set without anything wired into the zone 8 tertminals at the panel. I installed the panel and wired it myself several years ago and until recently it has been fine, other than this issue the panel works perfectly. …

Hi all, I'm having an extension built, and have had some new alarm wiring added to link it up to my alarm. As the alarm was a Veritas R8C, it only had 8 zones, with 7 in use, and I need 11, and wanted an additional keypad, so I've gone for a Texecom Premier Elite 24 with an 8XE plug-on expander and a SmartComm connect. The R8C was using a tamper loop, and the PE24 is EOL. The old zones are now all connected to the new panel, and I've (temporarily) switched the PIRs to be "Normally Closed" so they function until I add in some resistors and modify the wiring. All bar one PIR is working. Both old and new zones are a mix of door contact…

Scantronic 9651 alarms even when on installer mode, keypad does not show any faults or fault code, on log menu no fault activity shows, all voltages and tampers working ok, is this apanel fault? After reset and on user mode alarms. but again no fault code on keypad, again log does not show any faults.

Something in the shed triggered my alarm last night. I'm thinking warm air currents in front of sensors or tamper contacts stick/slipping in this heat because of expansion/contraction or maybe bats. Does this panel differentiate between an alarm triggered by a sensor in a loop on a zone or the alarm triggered by a tamper going o/c on that zone? The panel just says a"Alarm" with the zone name. These false triggers are infrequent, maybe one or two a year, but always seem to happen in really hot weather.

Hi all. Just after a little advice please. I am looking for recommendations on wired combined shock n contact sensors for all of my windows and doors. Have not yet decided on the main panel but it will likely be a texecom or Pyronix. The largest door is approx. 3.6m * 2m. It is a sliding door with 4 x 900mm panels. The 2 middle panels slide and 1 fixed panel on each side. Or should I be using separate shock and contact sensors? Suggestions appreciated.