Jump to content
Security Installer Community

Eugene's DIY Den

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Eugene's DIY Den last won the day on June 24 2019

Eugene's DIY Den had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About Eugene's DIY Den

  • Rank
    Member +

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Location
  • Interests
    Gardening, DIY, tools, photography, electronics, mountain biking, writing online guides


  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. So I'm still getting an "entry fault" SMS message when I open my back door and allow the entry delay to time out and the panel to activate an alarm. Is this a normal message, or due to a real fault caused by e.g. bouncing contacts and not a single clean opening of the reed switch? Wiring is good. I get three messages, "Alarm", "Entry fault", "Unset". I only expect two of these. Sometimes I get the problem with my front door too. The door and jamb are stuck and I have to shake the door to get it open, so the reed switch would alternatively open and close multiple times. I think maybe this
  2. There's no movement of the sensors though, they're well fixed. What I'm wondering is what exactly "entry fault" means.
  3. Connections are perfect, I always spend ages making them. No corrosion. Fault wasn't a tamper fault.
  4. I notice I get an error fault sometimes when I open my front door and the alarm goes off. The frame is swollen with all the rain so the door takes a lot of tugging and pushing to pull it open. Could this be due to the contacts being repeatedly opened and closed, sending multiple pulses to the panel instead of a single open signal?
  5. In case you're a burglar and hack in and remotely control the panel in the future? I presume that's what they're worried about.
  6. I haven't had any false alarms since I installed mine last year. Previously I noticed that the old panel triggered when a mains plug was pulled out. Individual tampers probably also helps. The original tamper went all over the place, out to sheds and my workshop.
  7. The panel I used is a pro version, I was lucky enough to get it from my electrical suppler. Apparently it's only supposed to be supplied to professional , not sure of the logic of this? Maybe they're afraid of reverse engineering?
  8. I thought I was a young dude too, lol! Are you interesting in joining the Facebook group?
  9. Not sure what you mean. The zone type for the internal door is "alarm" and the zone option is "inhibit".
  10. The door isn't in the entry route and I want it to trigger the alarm immediately when opened, so is inhibit the correct option? The other options are access, excl from part set A, excl from part set B, double knock, soak, chime, 24 hour, perimeter and remote test.
  11. Checked all the zone types. All "alarm" except a panic zone and entry/exit door zone. However the zone options are "inhibit". I thought this function on a zone was for allowing the panel to be armed even if the zone is active?
  12. Checked all the zone types. All "alarm" except a panic zone and entry/exit door zone.
  13. Ok, so setting spit entry time to zero solved the problem. Now there's no delay between internal sounder and external bell activating when the entry door is opened and code isn't entered before the entry delay times out. However I still have an issue with alarmed internal doors and PIRs not activating the alarm if the entry door is opened first and these sensors are activated before the entry delay times out. So for example I open an external door, panel starts beeping, I don't enter the code and I open an alarmed internal door. The internal sounder activates, but not the outside bell. (didn'
  14. On my system startup diagram, split entry is 30 by default. I changed it to 0. I'll check later today if this rectified the problem.
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.