sixwheeledbeast

There not great panels but that doesn't mean it wouldn't work. I would also assume it's the door contact at fault.

Powermax Express. You are likely to have a sensor with a flat battery, if you keep pressing I/OK button it will tell you the faults.

The thread wasn't closed, looks like it was reported for some reason. I'll merge them back as I am not sure if the questions about the battery where answered.

Pot controls keypad and speaker on 900. Software volume was a 2500 thing I recall.

Sideways clearly

N14 Pulsar Gti-R?

Have you thought about getting some quotes?

If you kill your alarm does it ring out at a good volume for the full duration of the hold off and then recover within 24 hours?

If the battery is a C20 (most likely) then Ah ratings are measured over a 20 hour period. If the battery is discharged quicker than that you loose out on amp-hours. On a bells only domestic you would normally require a standby time of 12 hours with one (15 minute) activation. You also don't want to run close to that figure due to above and also ageing and environmental changes so therefore use the next battery up if within 10%. So you need the standby current and the alarm current for your calculations. Unless your firing off lots of high amperage sounders, I would estimate a good quality 7Ah battery is required from your standby values.

Also you don't need the plug on the battery lead, its terminals on all the ones I have fitted

Yes. Ni-Mh 1/2AA 250mAh 7.2V Consider the cost of the whole bell before you start the job. The battery may not be faulty (not enabled) but equally other components may have failed, you will only know from testing while up there. You need to be careful when replacing the battery. Not only as the sounder may ring out on opening the tamper, but also you will have to remove the strobe guard providing access to components that may shock you if you put your fingers in the wrong place.

It's of most concern if you regularly use Bluetooth (I was thinking say hands free kits in vans). Exploits can be used on undiscoverable (hidden) devices too, so as long as Bluetooth is on this could be implemented.

Make sure you keep an eye out for software updates as they are rolled out for all platforms. https://www.armis.com/blueborne/

It's likely the old one will remain. The new Connect hardware will need Texecom Connect app.

It's the right choice. You would be liable if you made the decision to DIY or get someone out.

If your using EOL/DEOL/TEOL the EOL resistor should be at the furthest point in the wiring, anything else is just abusing the whole point of EOL in the first place. DP would be more secure than EOL if wired like the diagram shown above.

When you say can't get it to work, I assume that to mean it works stand alone but can't connect it to an NVR? Never heard of Foscam, quick look at the manual looks like tat. I assume it's set to "Server Push Mode"?

Marvellous, lets hope the intermediate wire isn't crushed or shorted, which would read as a permanent secure zone at the panel. Well done Pyronix for having this bodge documented.

You can't, without bodging the shunt loops around with spare pairs.

It's an alarm! What's to get with the times, as long as it's serviced, is functional and suits the customers needs, I don't see a problem.

Texecom also support multiple shunts up to three devices.

What's wrong with the panel if it works? Stick a new NiCd pack in the old bell job done, if the bell is operational. As for fitting the new, you seem to have worked it out, red and white are connected to the same place so the same thing. Engineer hold off wasn't really around when the 700L was made, so do with it what you want. If your not sure, try wiring it up on a short wire adj panel before messing about up a ladder all day.

Point being a speech dialler is designed to be a speech dialler where as the COM2400 is designed to be a digicom/modem. You require a speech dialler I assume, and while a combination of the correct panel, digi and speech module will do the job it's still not a stand alone speech dialler. The pro's and con's of each method are laid out, it's time to decide which direction is best for your application.

Certainly sounds like wireless sensor battery saving to me, where they sleep after being triggered.

They are SMA connectors. I have used SMA to F type connectors in the past to utilise existing loft bound coaxial. Obviously you need to end up with male/female to make an extension lead.