kwano888

Zones 2 and 3 are on separate cable runs. No work has been undertaken. Hope no rodents been chomping ! Spot on. Keypad is in the front hallway where the PIR is located on zone 2. Zone 3 - is on the back patio door (viper sensor). I've updated the system on it now to 'Double knock' to minimise or help false alarms.

Ok that makes sense. Thanks for the clarification. I'll monitor the Viper sensor as it maybe on its way out.

No its in alarm mode. This is whats showing on the display after its disarmed.

The last couple of nights the alarm has activated and on the LCD RKP it shows the following : 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 0 1 F 0 0 0 0 0 What does this mean ? I would have thought it would only show '1' on the zone triggered ? What is the 'F' ? I guess it's a fault code ? All zones are in use. Zone 1 is front door, zone 2 is Hall PIR and zone 3 is rear patio shock sensor. I going to change the backup battery as a start as I checked it yesterday and it's over 5 years old.

Thanks for the recommendation Simlec. Been browsing on Youtube and they look the business. Good shout, might be able to hook up to LAN as also wiring up his IP cameras so can bear that in mind. How much are the LAN cards ?

Funnily enough I was in my local Enterprise Security branch today buying some 8 core cable and spoke to an installer there whilst waiting to be served. He suggested the Castle panel (now Pyronix) pointing to a wireless system on display and said they were pretty easy to fit for a DIY person. I got a price for a wired version and picked up a brochure... now for some research !

It's a 4 bed extended detached house. Actually spoke to Sapphire Alarms today and he suggested a premier elite 24.

Or do I stick with the G4 and just double up on the zones to play it safe. Or is there any other panels which anyone can recommend which is straight forward to fit like the G4.

For a DIY person I have fit a few Accenta G4 for friends and family and few of my properties. But I need more than 8 zones in my next project and the Galaxy looks like it fits the bill. From looking online it looks more complicated ? Any thoughts people...

All resolved now. Moved the Green wire to the Black on the Sounder so they are connected together and the fault clears. Thanks for everyones advice.

OK, will try that tomorrow. Do you keep the wires in the panel whilst linking it or remove the green & black wires. Thanks.

Klaxon and Texecom merged... Use the original link wire connect back on T & A ? The Sounder instructions state : 6. TAMPER S - This terminal is only used when connecting two units in series. (Note: remove series jumper when using tamper S input) Instructions here : http://www.klaxonsignals.com/images/Products/docs/datasheet/112.pdf

Hi all, Need a little help and confirmation of the wiring connections to the Accenta G4 Panel and Sounder. The sounder is a Texecom Flashguard Minn-XW which I have to install internally due to conditions of placing external sounders on the Flat building. I originally had an Odyssey 3E which was working fine. The fault I am getting is 'Tamper Fault Lockout' on the LCD keypad. I have wired the Accenta G4 panel for the Sounder as follows : YELLOW connected to marked minus '-' on STROBE GREEN connected to ‘T’ BLACK connected to ‘A’ (12v) RED connected to ‘D’ (positive) WHITE connected to ‘B’ (negative) On the Sounder instructions it states : Panel : - Sounder 0v Strobe - connect to 1. STROBE 0V Sounder Trigger - connect to 2. TRIG - +12v Hold off supply - connect to 3. SUPPLY + 0v Hold off supply - connect to 4. SUPPLY - Tamper return - connect to 5. TAMPER R So I have wired the Sounder as follows : Panel : - Sounder 0v Strobe - connect to 1. STROBE - YELLOW 0V Sounder Trigger - connect to 2. TRIG - - WHITE +12v Hold off supply - connect to 3. SUPPLY + - RED 0v Hold off supply - connect to 4. SUPPLY - - BLACK Tamper return - connect to 5. TAMPER R - GREEN I have checked the tamper switch on the G4 is 'clicked' in and the Sounder tamper switch also looks fine. Everything was working fine on the originally Odyssey 3E Sounder so I just need confirmation if I have gone wrong somewhere on the wiring side or not. Pics attached. Thanks all in advance.

Thanks bought LAP model from Screwfix £9.99

Thanks James and Al-yeti. Yes it was a bad neutral. Contact on the blue sheath not the copper !