sixwheeledbeast

Dome, pan and round are all different types of heads... Pan would look more like a brass screw for a galv box, for example.

Don't expect the correct screw to go back in after you've jammed a wood screw in it. I would think it's something like a M3x6 dome head, going from the memory of the few Gardtecs I have had to deal with. Pattress screws are normally M3.5 which would be a guide on size.

Battery would need to be loaded to test but yes chewed cables will not help.

Tampers are a 24hr type alarm. This means internals if unset, full alarm if armed.

Yes, keyhole fixing hole adjacent the mains and tamper switch. If you have not used the keyhole as a fixing you have not fitted the rear tamper. The keyhole fixing if used and overtightened (or ripped off the wall in a burglary) will break the plastic plate and move the switch away from the lid screw by design. The 3 pin header should be marked with a white line, not got a PE24 to hand to say left, middle or right. If in doubt try both positions. Panel is best to be factory defaulted on first power up. You would normally get tampers and internal alarm on first power up.

The back tamper is part of the keyhole plastic as I said. You could rule out the cab tampers by using a jumper on the header, then try resetting the controls. This is the firmware from stock so will be correct unless flashed. Can't really see much of what I am talking about from the picture, I understand you are trying to show the lid screw.

Lead from the switch not connected to the panel? Keyhole plastic over tightened breaking the back tamper? Firmware version?

As above. So you last posted about replacing your keypad, bell and panel back in 2013-2014. It would be recommended by installers to have the system serviced annually, the battery would be tested and replaced every 4 years. I'd start there.

If French is the plan Kangoo, if not VW. Talking car derived here BTW. Buying/leasing would be down to your business over other things.

Needs looking at, could be a number of things especially if it's not been serviced in a while. I would power it down for now if the external sounder doesn't ring out.

Powermax that hasn't been serviced since fitted and has flat detector batteries, is the most likely cause.

It is. So there maybe an issue with the flasher, Com lead or PC drivers. Also you need to start with the switch on Run before you plug everything together.

Redundancy, it's an important part of hosting services like this.

Most of the cheaper domestic stuff like that will come as control panel (PCB included), keypad if required and instructions. Higher end stuff its likely to come with minimal/no instructions and/or trade only support. Check what you are getting to ensure have the correct parts. Not many places would stock PCB only, it's not cost effective especially the cheaper end.

We do not allow sharing of engineering manuals or defaulting information on this site as per our guidelines. http://www.thesecurityinstaller.co.uk/community/guidelines/ If other sites are willing to host information that could enable someone to learn how to bypass or disable your alarm system that is there responsibility. You have no evidence this ebay PCB is functional so you could just be wasting your time. Even if you know how to default it without a full programming manual you are not going to be able to set it up. There is no step by step instructions every job is different and needs programming differently. I would say there are two sensible options for a working system going forward:- *Get someone who knows what they are doing to come out check everything over and program the panel. *Buy a new control panel which would come with instructions, read it through and teach yourself how to fit and program it from the instructions provided.

And the panel lid.... If nothing is disturbed why are the tampers being linked?

So the panels going to need programming, I assume it came with a manual that would be the best reference to program your system. If you want to mess about and test without running up and down, you could temporarily wire the keypad on small piece of cable adjacent the panel.

Keyfob battery number 1. When was the last time you had any of the batteries replaced? It is a wireless system so all the equipment has batteries that need replacing regularly. If you replace the battery as it's one way it will not update the system and clear the fault. You will have to arm/disarm the system with the keyfob to clear it.

I agree it's most likely the button not the controls. ET on a 9800 would be wired to the keypad IIRC

Both boxes should sound if power is removed, this is not powered from the mains. However if in Hold-Off mode the bell will not sound anyway so this doesn't prove the battery. Your next steps are deciding if you competent to diagnose what is wrong with it, I am assuming its just a tamper fault somewhere but you need to test it with a meter and work it out. The easy way to fix it from a DIY perspective if the field wiring is ok would be to buy two new boxes they will come with colour for colour instructions. It's likely something an engineer could repair and maybe a service check wouldn't go a miss to aid system reliability, so it's you decision on which way you wish to go.

Not sure why there is two whites in the terminal block, you need to take one MSW wire to the second box. I hope the other bell isn't SAB as you would likely blow the panel. One flashing comfort light means it's in hold-off mode with the tamper open.

Never broken one had occasional jammed staples, the older ones seem a lot more powerful.

Fully agree.Would be good to have it checked over as there are batteries that require maintenance and an operational check of the system wouldn't be a bad idea. I would imagine it's double pole so 4 wires and the colours used would have been upto the installing engineer.

If your looking for an installer we have a section of our members here.http://www.thesecurityinstaller.co.uk/community/forum/268-uk-security-installers-by-regional-police-force/ From what you have posted it's highly likely a new system is the most comprehensive solution. Contacts offer little protection if the door isn't opened as intented. With it being in a garage it would likely be easy to cable for sensors or other forms of detection more suitable. For the cost of the time to replace the controls etc, it would be silly not to suggest full system over an upgrade at first.

So there's a fault on Zone 8