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sixwheeledbeast

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Everything posted by sixwheeledbeast

  1. One device (sensor) per zone is best practice, it makes it easier to locate any faults in the future.
  2. Well it's brand new so not played with it yet. Seems to have been polished in house for a while so would expect a smooth transition. However, on any critical system that has an update, I always wait a little while to see if something comes out the woodwork. I don't mind testing stuff on the bench but for daily stuff I like stability. Sometimes you get to the point you have to release it, it's very difficult to reproduce every bespoke system during testing. I'll probably download and have a play with it next week on my bench panel.
  3. You don't need to Link out T just make sure it's programmed as Normally Closed.
  4. Keypad zones have to be mapped. This is Keypad number 1 so Zone 1 on Keypad need mapping to a zone between 1-24. You set the zone wiring type per zone as well.
  5. Most things should be fine OTB for a one zone job. Test it and make sure it works.
  6. Yes, you will need to make sure you programme the zone on the panel for Normally Closed. Assuming this is the entry door it will need to be Entry/Exit type also.
  7. This is the best source for explaining your issue. https://wiki.wireshark.org/CaptureSetup/Ethernet I believe HP call it port monitoring on there stuff, if you want to play about with some more success.
  8. I have tried messing with the pot before but you seem to only get a few extra years out of them. Also been to a good few that have stuck active with the circuit board red hot, more of a reason to get them replaced.
  9. I have known older Pyronix sensors to decrease there coverage with age so it is a good idea to consider upgrading. I imagine most DT's would be suitable replacements. If your panel in double pole you are likely not to need selecting of any resistance and wire like for like.
  10. Yes this is a known issue on older firmware panels that expander voltages are shown inaccurately too high. I have never heard of an issue with network errors, I would check the network errors on the controls are the same as Wintex and if necessary clear down and monitor.
  11. Your first decision is to decide how competent you are, if your not certain best advise is to find an alarm engineer. Your main issue will be knowing how to program it to what you need, easy for engineers using them all day. It's likely to need a service and a new battery, you are likely to be up and running with less than an hours time for the work. Unless there's an issue.
  12. I wouldn't be bothered with something that false alarms, you get complacent in the case of a genuine attack. Especially if it's something you have to manually rearm.
  13. I am not sure how much more help we can be without answering some of the questions above. What makes you feel that a perimeter system is any more of a deterrent than CCTV?
  14. That's fine, security is better in layers not many think about this. You will already have some layers I imagine; unless you leave your doors and windows open. Perimeter systems are generally suited to large detached properties where someone is in close proximity to site and immediately action. We have no idea on the property or what you expect from this perimeter protection system, or what the risk of the property and it's contents is. I also agree it's unlikely you would here back from an online enquiry for this type of work.
  15. What security to you have already? I assume that you want this to be an early warning system while someone is in the property?
  16. There is still a market just the game has changed. Lutron and IT/AV distribution is still popular in larger homes. I'm not into the whole app thing, it makes more sense for controls on the wall but to each there own.
  17. Damage to the wiring dragging the system voltage down? You'd have to start by taking the controls apart and doing some tests.
  18. The integration with HA on the DSC systems I fitted where pretty impressive. You could control most options through the touchscreen media controllers everything done though a 232 BUS link. Certainly very smooth interface with everything from the one place. HA has moved on since then, it's cheaper to push everything to a mobile app now, and more people are used to that. Gone are the days where you had media keypads integrated into your lighting controls on every doorway. More often this is being replaced for plug and play consumer tech like Lightwave and Sonos.
  19. Used the Octoquad things as temporary scaffold protection and some early warning type perimeter protection. They're OK but wireless is only one way, wired option available, good at picking up foxes... I normally would suggest active IR beams, it depends on what your protecting and the environment tho.
  20. Fitted these before as required by home automation company for support with there controls.
  21. The sensors are more expensive but compare that to the labour of installing shocks and contacts. Also as you know aesthetics can be down to how well it's installed wired shock sensors could be installed more discretely than a PIR. Lot's of variables, hence lots of opinions.
  22. It's relative tho. You say bodge some say budget solution. I would never guarantee that a pet friendly sensor would be fine there normally see how you go on a retrofit basis. A new install I wouldn't consider movement sensors unless in combination with perimeter.
  23. As in detection fitted to the perimeter of the room comprehensive enough to detect a break in. This could be a combination of different detection to detect entry to the room. Contacts, Shocks, Active Beams etc etc.
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