sixwheeledbeast

Drop testing lithium batteries is a bad idea they could explode, and also doesn't indicate charge like a alkaline would. You could only test them with a multimeter and that would only give you an indication as they are not loaded.

The installer would use there own code in the system. We do not give out codes, manuals or defaulting information here for security reasons. If you can't contact the original maintainer, I would recommend you call a few local companies and inquire about a service. Karisma's are quite an old panel now, I have known even well maintained ones to have iD biscuits fail and NVM issues.

I agree, I don't know the CPX well enough to know if polling would be an issue. However, if polling where a part of the issue then I would say it's likely all the radio batteries would fail and need replacing. It's more likely the system locked up when the power was restored as PJ says. To move forward if you feel you have a complaint ask to speak to someone at the company and explain, if this does not give you a satisfactory resolution take it up with there inspectorate if approved. Finally take a service contract up with another company that support your system, having a system without one is only asking for grief in the long run.

From what I gather on your posts above I would say:- Not many systems are designed to last 30 hours with no power. If the control panel battery is exhausted then your system may not power back up when the mains restores. Your sensor batteries are separate from the mains failure/control panel battery failure, if they where failing you will never truly know now. I would recommend radio sensors batteries are replace annually, they never last as long as the manufacturer claims. There is no way I wouldn't recommand a full service to a non-maintained customer if it had not been serviced within 12 months. If this isn't explained you'll be back again within 12 months to swap the batteries and the customer would expect this to be FOC.

There not great panels but that doesn't mean it wouldn't work. I would also assume it's the door contact at fault.

Powermax Express. You are likely to have a sensor with a flat battery, if you keep pressing I/OK button it will tell you the faults.

The thread wasn't closed, looks like it was reported for some reason. I'll merge them back as I am not sure if the questions about the battery where answered.

Pot controls keypad and speaker on 900. Software volume was a 2500 thing I recall.

Sideways clearly

N14 Pulsar Gti-R?

Have you thought about getting some quotes?

If you kill your alarm does it ring out at a good volume for the full duration of the hold off and then recover within 24 hours?

If the battery is a C20 (most likely) then Ah ratings are measured over a 20 hour period. If the battery is discharged quicker than that you loose out on amp-hours. On a bells only domestic you would normally require a standby time of 12 hours with one (15 minute) activation. You also don't want to run close to that figure due to above and also ageing and environmental changes so therefore use the next battery up if within 10%. So you need the standby current and the alarm current for your calculations. Unless your firing off lots of high amperage sounders, I would estimate a good quality 7Ah battery is required from your standby values.

Also you don't need the plug on the battery lead, its terminals on all the ones I have fitted

Yes. Ni-Mh 1/2AA 250mAh 7.2V Consider the cost of the whole bell before you start the job. The battery may not be faulty (not enabled) but equally other components may have failed, you will only know from testing while up there. You need to be careful when replacing the battery. Not only as the sounder may ring out on opening the tamper, but also you will have to remove the strobe guard providing access to components that may shock you if you put your fingers in the wrong place.

It's of most concern if you regularly use Bluetooth (I was thinking say hands free kits in vans). Exploits can be used on undiscoverable (hidden) devices too, so as long as Bluetooth is on this could be implemented.

Make sure you keep an eye out for software updates as they are rolled out for all platforms. https://www.armis.com/blueborne/

It's likely the old one will remain. The new Connect hardware will need Texecom Connect app.

It's the right choice. You would be liable if you made the decision to DIY or get someone out.

If your using EOL/DEOL/TEOL the EOL resistor should be at the furthest point in the wiring, anything else is just abusing the whole point of EOL in the first place. DP would be more secure than EOL if wired like the diagram shown above.

When you say can't get it to work, I assume that to mean it works stand alone but can't connect it to an NVR? Never heard of Foscam, quick look at the manual looks like tat. I assume it's set to "Server Push Mode"?

Marvellous, lets hope the intermediate wire isn't crushed or shorted, which would read as a permanent secure zone at the panel. Well done Pyronix for having this bodge documented.

You can't, without bodging the shunt loops around with spare pairs.

It's an alarm! What's to get with the times, as long as it's serviced, is functional and suits the customers needs, I don't see a problem.

Texecom also support multiple shunts up to three devices.