sixwheeledbeast

It's really not ideal to have multiple devices on one zone you have no idea which has triggered. Do you have a latch line or some way to identify the triggered device? If required the maximum EOL devices supported on one zone is 3 and you would wire only shunt resistors (4k7) in intermediate devices and usual shunt and EOL in the last. With devices that have built in resistors not all of them support this type of unusual multi device setup either so you'd have to work around this.

The panel is completely obsolete so there is no manufacturers you could contact. Even so they are generally installer only technical support numbers for security equipment.

Programming is one aspect we do not provide installation manual or defaulting information here as per our guidelines. You also need to test all the components including the sensors work, replace the standby batteries, get up and reconnect then test the external sounder if required. Test the voltages and the battery is charging etc, yes you could just power it up and cross your fingers, but it is a security system after all. For peace of mind you'd want it right IMO. If you do try to power it up be aware you may trigger the external sounder and also there will be mains voltages present in there too.

Sounds like the best option is to contact a few local installers and see what they say. It's most likely that the system has been decommissioned (powered down) which was sensible if they didn't use it. I would probably recommend to replace the controls and the external sounder myself in this situation but it's possible the system may work if recommissioned. The main issue with takeovers like this is you have no idea of the condition of the system. If they had false alarms, if was decommissioned for a reason, it maybe be the keypad is faulty or fuses are blown it hard to say from a photo.

I would assume the system is monitored, if so you should contact your installer to see what they can do.

Lid open on something?

Wireless is easy to replace just more expensive on materials. it would be the wired ones you'll have to mess about with if EOLs aren't supposed.

They are very odd panels when you compare them to the UK/EU market, not something a lot of people work on. System may think it's part set have you tried arming and disarming, clearing any faults and then trying?

what do you do with the dog tho?

My guess would also be lost code and now the panel is misbehaving as the defaulting the codes procedure has been completed incorrectly. We don't provide or discuss defaulting information or engineering manuals here as per our guidelines, but really it would be quickest to just default and reprogram than mess about.

Your best option is to trace everything back from the components. I doubt anyone will have any info about it. Maybe the terminals where labelled on the bells plastics originally. I can't read the chip well from your images but the IC's possibly an opamp, it's datasheet will help

Lets get things straight I am not complaining or trying to prove anything, you can suggest what you like but there is only so far before moderation becomes censorship. Be that ugly or not everyone will have a different opinion and it's a forum for discussion. You'd be surprised how much effort goes into keeping posts on topic and trying to split things where required to keep the conversation cohesive. Regarding the comment about questions, how does answering 11 not really related questions in one post help any search results. I am willing to help with yours or any others questions like plently here but you can't train to be an engineer reading a forum, which is pretty much what you are asking. You should look into Tavcom like we have mentioned in other threads you posted in. Anything specific gets better answers if you split it out into a few posts, it's also easier to find via the forums search function.

Your preaching to people that have been here for a long time and had to moderate all that.

As you say there are so many questions here to answer in a single forum post. Some can be answered in a simple form with a sentence or two but they are all things you would learn doing the job as an apprentice or from training over many weeks and months.

For Texe the SMPS is 2.5A and 2A for the old linear one on the metal cabs, which is nice to have the headroom. Considering they charge standby batteries at upto 750mA then add on top your system current they are important calculations to consider.

Even paid apps have no guarantee of messages if it's not a polled path you can't make sure the message will be received. Doesn't take much for your internet to go down. There are always steps to take if you have false activations, you may not find anything but that doesn't mean you can't do anything as an engineer.

If your looking at getting a pro in then don't shop for products, they will fit what their engineers are trained on and most systems have this option as an extra. Wired systems can have the same remote capabilities as wireless and if your wiring is fine I would personally keep it. App and phone control has it's limitations, it may seem great because everything else has that now but really you have to think about what it really offers. I'm not a fan myself. A proper "monitored" system would have a subscription with the installer but you would have some assurance you'll get the messages "alerts" you need. That wouldn't be the case with just an app alone.

If you are getting a company in then don't shop for products the company will fit what their staff are trained on. If you don't have any company recommendations from others you know, search on the NSI or SSAIB website also the installers section here. Having a record of maintenance will reduce the risk as at least they know the system works.

I am all for if it's well maintained and serviceable then look after it and it will serve you well. You have to consider with old wireless systems that it's mostly one way an not considered reliable or secure any more. With one way systems it's possible for the panel not to receive a message send from a PIR (therefore you have no alarm), the panel has no way of sending messages to sensors to make sure they are operational. A bit like you don't see WEP being used for WiFi any more, in it's day it was considered fine. Now most are aware connections can be compromised in minutes and more modern protocols are in use.

Even if they decided in the end to not pull the plug on it, it was due to be switched off we discussed it here. It has not been reliable for around a decade it was the only "free" service left so always busy. Just think how many thousands of devices still have that number programmed into it trying to send messages, it wasn't just alarms, pagers and server software could use it. It's really not worth messing with, newer systems will send messages via IP or you could pay a premium for a number to support your legacy stuff, for now. That's if you want a chance to get the message.

Just because the keypad is in a "secure" area (is actually less secure due to no active sensors IMO) that doesn't make it ok to have an off button without verifying the user. Sound like you would be better with prox tags or something, it's certainly wouldn't conform to any standards or be designed to do that by the manufacturer.

That number is for Vodaphone TAP gateway, this service was switched off two years ago.

It's likely not the code in the manual you would normally change it.

There is no way to disable the line monitoring with a plug on DC58, you would have to put a line on it and hope it's in low security mode. Surely just ditching the DC58 will stop the line fault? Certainly the case on a TS

With it completely powered down, mains and battery with no sounders ringing then it should be fine. If you want it working I suggest you find someone come out and recommission/service it for you. Expect for some things to require replacement like the standby battery and possibly the bellbox from what you have said.