sixwheeledbeast

Professional Lol. Modern Micromark.

There are other brands of kit that offer longer ranges but it's not Ethernet they normally have some "CCTV mode", like above.

Ethernet is 100m max normally for an installation 90m field wiring with 10m left for patching. You then also need to consider the load types and how much your switch provides.

The same reason all other vintage tat is a thing. Someone thought it was worth saving from the scrap heap. Google knows you like looking at electronic tat from the 50-60s, so the ads are right up your street.

Restarted the router? If it happened during a power cut then it's more likely because some other part of the network was powered down. Can't say I have had any issues like this but if your timed out and have com fail I would make sure your getting a connection to it say plug a laptop into the LAN cable. Personally if I had that issue first thing I would try would be power everything down router, smartcom etc then power everything up working towards the panel. Engineers menu wouldn't help unless something is programmed wrong, user code twice and reset to clear alerts.

Premier would also power itself down at around 11.5v to stop the battery from becoming damaged. So it's not got to the stage where the battery is too low to recover if it's decent quality. You may need to code twice then reset to clear the system alerts. As above give it 4 hours or so, try to reset, if you still have a fault contact your installer. The recommended annual checks would pick up if the battery has lost any capacity, assuming the system is serviced.

I also use Thunderbird. The adaptive junk settings are decent.

Replying to them is what they are aiming for, then they know it's a valid address to add to the list. They won't care about inbound mail either they'll just send it to /dev/null

Doubt something like that would be manufactured any more. It's more cost effective to have LED's or strobes built into whatever the product is. Build you own bell boxes hasn't been a thing for several decades now, I doubt there is another market for them.

You shouldn't take outputs from a different source then the devices supply incase the negatives aren't at the same potential. Did you check the outputs changed state with a meter incase there was some area/group programming? Fit RIO next to the panel or SCB mode the bell off the remote RIO, you'll have to mess with the tamper tho.

Yep agreed, would all depend how a drive fails as to any audio clues like that. Silent types of failure are probably likely than the more obvious mechanical ones. Fans especially the smaller ones in these units are more likely for bearing to let go. If the OP isn't sure how to check what the fault is probably a could idea to get the installer back.

Damaged wiring? Faulty panel? Testing for the fault with a multimeter is much more succesful than buying kit that you may not need. I suppose start with testing the wiring and compare readings to the installation paperwork would be the usual method. Moving the keypad adj the panel would be another diagnosis step. If you feel this is out of your depth it's probably time to look for an installer

New battery may have needed some charge.

I wouldn't agree here, when you look at Salto as an example they often seem to sell it to the customer direct on the UX which as an installer you have little control over Customers forcing installers or contractors into using a brand of kit leaves the manufacturer holding all the cards. ...and don't get me started on the design of the stuff or if your waiting for it to come from Spain on back order.

Have you checked the voltage and charging rate with a meter during replacement?

Kits not great in my opinion and PJ is right about being in the club. Need something with a load of doors to get in. Do you have a specific question about the long range readers, maybe that will help move the topic along?

Don't know the model too well but maybe there is something wrong with it, like a hard rive failure or a blown fuse causing video loss for example.

It must be lucky/well looked after... Been a good while since I've seen one without black burning around the regulator, have the correct aux voltages and capable of charging the battery at a decent rate.

Well it's currently got +ve going into the bell -ve and the tamper linked out so it's a bit of a mess and no guarantees it's going to work properly. It also looks like a 25+ year old optima that would have been worth upgrading at the same time.... T tamp, A -ve, D +ve, B trig.

Ply backing would only resolve it temporarily won't take too long to warp and delaminate. With whoever fitted it having the tampers parallel hopefully everything else is ok and at least one of the boxes is in a low power mode.

Welcome to the world of alarm monkey misfits I am sure you'll be right at home. Have you tried switching it off and on again?

If it's wired correctly then you can meter the tamper return. If they are in parallel in the panel this wouldn't help find the fault tho, would have to test up there which isn't ideal. You would normally do all bell tests from the panel on a service, getting up and disturbing the bell every year is only asking for trouble. 20-30 minutes sounds average for a smallish domestic. Plenty other tests would be done at the control panel as well as the other things you mention. To be fair while I'd suspect the tamper on the bell it could be anything, bell, cabling, or panel would need much further diagnosis with a meter.

Sounds like typical Pyronix tampers, plastic flexing. Is this a DIY system? When was it last serviced? I can only suggest make sure the tamper switch is adjusted and closing firmly on both boxes. It's also possible the tamper loop hasn't been wired correctly between the bells so the panel isn't triggering on tamper correctly. Different manufacturers have there own way to wire multiple bell tampers so you may likely need to swap both and read the instructions on multiple tampers carefully. You can't just parallel all the connections if you want it to work correctly.

I don't ever recall seeing vertical two lines like that on the display for Scantronics. You may get a compatible 9800 or 9x5x somewhere but your just replacing a really old obsolete panel with a less old obsolete panel. There's no guarantees the keypad isn't duff or become duff due to a fault with the current panel. There's a lot more to a working system than the lights flashing on the PIR's too. At least the external sounder would appear to working correctly from what you have said. I know you probably want to DIY but have a think about how much time, trail and error, money and effort you want to put into it first. We have seen many a DIYer spend months asking questions trying to get something near functional.

Ding.