sixwheeledbeast

If it's got built in resistors they don't "sort automatically" but you set them from the instruction with jumpers. Manufacturers use different values for there kit so most PIR's have the options to cover them all.

1) Tamper terminals on PIR will be marked meter them and simulate closing the lid. 2) yep. All values should be monitored for a little while and be steady, although no guarantees on finding a very intermittent cable fault, chances point more towards the PIR but need to test these things.

I can't see a unit conforming for response without some controls.

Eaton? 76x with 726's

You could have everything on FE if you wanted although it's not advised. Bear in mind the more you put on the entry route the less "instant" protection you have. Personally I always try to avoid having systems on timed exit but you have no option if you have no other way to terminate the setting procedure.

It's the wiring regs, covers any wiring up to LV. I don't think they aim to be vague they aim to be concise and clear. One issue I do have is all these standards are set for good practices and safety reasons, cost decent money to buy but they refer to so many other regs in each other you would be bankrupt if you bought everyone that is referenced.

Not a fan of those plug in app only setup mesh boxes. Like DIY alarms... More business end but most Draytek AP's are mesh, the new 802 is pretty compact and has a LAN port. I still say for the OP a half decent wired AP somewhere central will probably do it. Boosters are only as good as they get, garbage in garbage out.

Equipment like tools and access. It's all well having the manual but it may as well be in another language if you don't understand the terminologies used in the industry. Information like software and installer manuals are mostly trade only, you may find copies about the net but no guarantees. As JW it can also be debatable about insurance validity if you maintain your own system, that's if they require a system for insurance.

I would expect there would be some type of detection device programmed on 13 but you may not know about it for some reason. Have you installed this yourself? It wouldn't be an expander or PSU on Texe they have separate fault text.

Yep I second that, it's the knowledge of how to maintain the system (annual checks, batteries, testing and programming). Then also consider what you do if something unforeseen goes wrong with it, often happens at the least convenient time when you can't get help. Do you have the equipment to access all the components at that time. A well maintained system would rarely cause you an issue tho . Maybe call some local companies and explain your situation if your uncertain, if they support Visonic they maybe flexible and work with what you have although most would prefer to only support there own kit so they offer you the best QoS.

As I understand it they are moving towards cabling being at least LSZH and not allowing plastic containment to be used in the next amendment of BS7671. Not only due to failing of containment/fixings during a fire but due to toxic fumes and poor vision when trying to escape. I mention this for those using YT2 galv support clips. I think there is still room for innovation in fire proof fixings for all surfaces, unfortunately cheapest options always win.

Nope it's replace everything or find ADT versions. They gave you what you asked for I suppose, you have paid for them to check over the programming, change the codes and hand over the system, also maybe set up PowerManager to this TP? For most companies focus is on the product as a whole, (i.e. a full working system) this is how it's sold. The components and compatibilities between them are engineering questions, unlikely to be a topic of conversation when talking contracts. To add insult to injury, Visonic are part of Tyco group so buying non ADT branded Visonic would be the "final cash grab", if you want to phrase it like that.

Anti-clockwise twisting with left but right handed, I do the same but without the OCD...

Maybe a spit gun but not staples...

A switch with an access point is possibly the term your looking for. Or maybe just an access point plugged into the current switch. Every site is different when it comes to WiFi signal, so many variables to work with. In a standard house the router is often in the worst place for WiFi signal due where the master socket is. Often disabling the WiFi at the router and having a decent wired access point in a central location best solution with minimal kit cost.

That would indicate to me that it was unreliable or had an issue and they just killed all the internal sounders and left it. I suppose you will have to see.

Maybe the keypad or cabling to the keypad is faulty? To power down the system you will have to deal with the bellbox hold-off, this will run for 15-20 minutes every time it looses power or has a trigger (the bell itself controls this time). If your competent it maybe time to consider upgrading the controls while your messing out diagnosing what is broken. Bellbox batteries are generally not worth replacing just replace. Being cheap you may find it's just the keypad but probably just kicking the can down the road if something else fails, hard to say without looking at the overall condition.

All these tampers should be in series, colours don't mean much they just mean you can identify them at both ends not what they terminate into, investigation and a multimeter is the answer. Find all the tamper pairs check them all individually, after you find and fix whatever is open, make sure they are all in series. Will only clear with lid closed too. If it's out of your depth maybe consider having an engineer look at it, most would recommend upgrading to something more modern without a global tamper.

It's a Pre-2K Veritas the programming options are very different to modern ones. Part set was option 02 IIRC. Seems like it may have lost all it's memory which is more concerning, has it been serviced and had replacement batteries in that time? We don't provide manuals, codes or defaulting information here as per our guidelines.

You were posting help for Scantronic systems less than 24 hours ago... hmm

I would expect something like right click properties and then find the update drivers option? Would suggest it's best to let Windows do it if you can, especially as it seems to know it need updating.

Most likely it's down to the COM port selected, try different combination of physical ports and COM port until you get a connection? Setup > Modem > PC-COM If it's the fancy newish black lead I would expect the FTDI driver to install automatically on first connection, but I don't really play much with Windows.

Seems I was right. Something clearly doesn't add up here, good luck with whatever this thread was suppose to achieve.

I don't like this attitude, condescending to rule out everybody else's opinion as childish because it doesn't align with your opinions. Maybe your not but it comes across that way. Remember most trade contributors have decades of experience screwing boxes of electronics to walls with some effort of providing security and detection. If this is the type of answer you are looking for then it's a different topic of conversation about the industry as a whole, it's a massive bag of worms difficult to put in one post... You contradict yourself in the same post, your not in the industry but they replied to your support ticket. I'm not surprised BTW. I don't think any company can truly ignore a request for support it just looks bad, this is where they have to strike some balance and were installers would prefer they at least had priority. It's always been the same anyone can get hold of any kit, I don't feel you can withhold basic support in this instance. Just like with any other products not in the industry. The issue is you can't teach someone how to fit a "pro" alarm system via a support ticket or a forum, engineers have had years of training or apprenticeships to understand how it all fits together and apply it. This is were prosumer or DIY falls apart IMO, it's not just about the product it's about the knowledge and application of it. The "pro" gear has also had years of tweaks, specifically for the UK market to make it adaptable for every installation and engineers are trained and get support on it. You can't condense years of installer knowledge on security into a prosumer product or make a DIY install manual. The grading thing your asking about is sort of irrelevant for this instance, you can only fit a graded system as a company. It's the whole fitted system that "becomes graded", the component parts of the system have to conform but the system is graded as a whole. So outside of the industry it means very little unless you understand what each grade means and have knowledge of each standard that parts correspond to. We also have different variations on top of the EN standard in the UK too, we refer back to BS4743 and then we have BS8243 as some examples. The other points Al alluded to is who tested the kit conformed? Has it had third party testing for the UK market? At best it's unproven along side established products. The UK market is very different and why I believe lot of this "tat" is pitched as prosumer/DIY were I could see a company fitting it in the rest of the EU. It's also pointless to try and break into a market that has plenty of options with a new product that does similar to what your engineers are trained on. Also any product could claim it's two way but only have one component two way (cough, powermax tat) this is where marketing comes in. Unless you understand how this type of kit functions in a activation, what the spec sheet or marketing says means very little.

https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/technology-54903754 I am sure a new manual will fix it, every DIYer reads the manual, right?