sixwheeledbeast

Either the aux fuse is blown or the panel is blown.

They have an engineer hold off mode and will not be full operation with the lid open.

Better quality that wouldn't have cheap as it's selling point meaning you wouldn't have to bodge.

An Accenta is a budget system so you get what you pay for. This is irrelevant to the advice for having the system serviced. If you don't have some technical knowledge you are not going to be able to locate the tamper in the first place, the tamper fault could be any component in the system. While your fix may work, possibly better than the original design, it looks pants. There is no way you can justify this type of fix for a paying customer. Any installer would rip the panel out and fit something decent if it was there own system.

I think you lost a few years somewhere Pre-2000 model (year 2000), has different programming and PCB layout than the current version.

Customers cars will go faster if they get a message from the ARC saying they have an activation.

You can enjoy your job but disagree with the direction of the company. Some people would argue they need the job so have no choice in the matter. I suppose I am thinking more generally outside of the industry there tho. Will be interesting to see what action happens, taxman will want the money back somehow and rightly so.

Issue is if your company is found out and they go under you no longer have a job.

Hello and Welcome. Keep in mind the majority of the content on this site is UK based and products are very different this side of the pond.

If you get all the Inergen bottles in and pipework set up it maybe worth programming...

It's the bell that needs the cut off timer, it just became standard that all equipment would have the timer built in for reducing noise pollution. Even if the panel continues to provide a bell trigger output the bell would ignore it until removed and reapplied. Unless there is some rearm function as part of this then I'd still say leave it alone myself. It's part of our guidelines not to provide engineers manuals here, not only from a security perspective but copyright issues. What other sites distribute is up to them.

If the new external bell you have has a cut off timer then why mess about cutting resistors? Or have you fitted an equivalently aged C type without an SAB module now, for some odd reason? Oh that is the beige box I was thinking of yer.

Shorrock and Acorn. Hmm, makes me recall some really old 2 zone key switch thing?

Should do. You could just silence it and reset it later if not.

You managed to crease the door already!

ebay?

2 minutes is a long time for the rare occasion you would say walk into a fully armed room... I could maybe justify seconds on rare instances but never minutes. i am assuming part set only here

I would suggest you contact your installer or look for a local company to check over your system. Alarm systems need regular maintenance to be reliable and if you have not had an engineer look at your system in that time it most likely needs the control battery replacing at a minimum. A guess on your recent tamper issue from experience, without seeing the system, would be the external bell tamper switch due to the heat we have had; but would need proper diagnosis.

A zone programmed as E/E would be E/E for all part arms as default. My guess would be you either have enabled the Guard on Part attribute for Zone 9 or you have Part arm on Instant?

https://www.thesecurityinstaller.co.uk/community/topic/9600-sl-compact-alrm-user-manual/?do=findComment&comment=94815

A non- related battery powered smoke alarm?

Al was right, I already split all this out but I was busy at the time so didn't fix the title or post.

Alarms that activate like this during a power cut are most likely unmaintained and will require servicing by an engineer. We do not provide engineering manuals, defaulting procedures, codes or disabling information here. I can only suggest that you try all the user codes you can think of and if the alarm will not silence you will have to contact someone to repair it. It's recommended you service your system regularly, (even if you don't arm it often) so this type of thing doesn't happen.

You said that you can't clear down if it calls a landline, I would be starting to diagnose from there to make sure that is correct. I have known some devices not to sent DTMF while in a call, you have to go to another menu or need some third party app to enable this. If it requires an app this may have it's own controls in settings or require your volume to be higher, will difffer from device to device. Making sure landline to landline (or even the old Iphone) works first would rule out a fault elsewhere.

I can only assume clearing the call too, but as the post wasn't clear and there wasn't a direct question, I didn't see any point in guessing what the OP meant.