sixwheeledbeast

Yep, I rate Dell gear. I build my own desktops but laptops I would get a Dell again.

PCB Encapsulation Resin http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121337973009 Can be messy but if you find the right size mould for your project, it works well and looks good.

Maybe worth a split topic but have you tried the "unknown" option

Bit pointless having a cage with a hole?

Are they IR cameras? In most cases the IR will bounce back off the cage causing a **** picture.

53p Second Class

If that made sense I'd agree with you.

I'd go with the shopping baskets myself. I replaced an old security light last week that had a basket over. The basket was like new the fitting was rusted to ****.

Still 1 way can't handshake. It doesn't know it's signal hadn't been blocked/intercepted/jammed

If they have cut the closed loop wire they will probably already have it in there hands running down the road. I am thinking physical security, cctv or maybe a security light would be best.

2 way is better than 1 way wireless. It's not a myth it's fact. While quality is a whole different issue, 2 way wireless have huge advantages. From a battery life POV many 2 way systems can sleep or switch indicators off to reduce running costs. From a security POV a 2 way system means that both the panel and detector know if the signal has been received. At the end of the day if it's a low risk property any alarm is better than no alarm, so I see what you are trying to explain. However, it is important people understand 1 way wireless is cheaper for a reason and that it's only purpose should be low risk properties. This I agree with.

When I did my CG1851 they did the NVQ level 2 and 3 along side. The NVQ was just the work based training and coursework no exam IIRC. Many seem to employ monkeys so I wouldn't worry about it. I think the manufacturers are aiming there kit at monkey level now too, means they get less support calls.

Sounds like someone bends a van every month. Scary.

Both parties have reasons to recommend different kit, I don't see an issue. I'd recommend installing a new Veritas for a few reasons, but to each there own.

Pre-2k panels are 1x for full set type, 2x for part set type. So function 21.

Since when did the rules allow contact details in posts? Like Accenta isn't DIY either! There all much of the same, everyone has there reasons for using different manufacturers; as you can see in the thread. Anybody can get hold of any equipment and install it as they like, this is out of the manufacturers control really.

I doubt you can assess much from in the loft. It only needs one wire missing/damaged/cut/removed not to trigger.

Sounds like a possible faulty bell. But could equally be something else; fuse, output faulty, wiring, etc.

Amazing the glass reed didn't break while wedging it in there.

What you actually leave the shed?

Must just be me then...

Yes, if you know how to wire them correctly and you don't overload the panel, as I explained in post 2

FWIW prices are about right for a decent approved alarm company with warranty on parts and labour.

I am also interested in why you are using a PCB. Is it due to cost? What is the cost of one of those PCB's? I wouldn't recommend installing cables outside, over here that would be "outside the protected area" and not good practice. Maybe some contacts, vibration detectors or even beams would provide a earlier warning than PIR's. The sounds would normally deter most burglars to leave quickly the way they entered.