sixwheeledbeast

It could be aborting if you silence quickly. Are "Reports" setup for the correct alarm types and for the correct Area? Shouldn't be any need for Wintex, it just lays all the options out for you to see on a screen better.

Should really have an unswitched fused connection unit adjacent the control panel if not you have no way to safely isolate separately from a shared circuit. Alarms aren't designed to be easy to "switch off" that wouldn't sensible, this is why maintenance for them is important. If the system is working correctly you will likely trigger the external sounders again trying to isolate it. If your not planning on fixing it for now and it's not making any noise I'd leave it alone IMO. If it's just a chime sound and your confident it's caused by you activating a sensor, then you could try pressing the "music note" button to disable the chime.

I would say it's had a surge and maybe blown or lost it's programming. At least the battery, bellbox maybe keypad have something wrong with them, from the chain of events you describe. If your going to do this yourself your going to need some knowledge of how to diagnose each part and work from there. Personally I'd say if your not sure have an installer look at it as you'll end up replacing stuff when your not sure. It's not cost effective to buy a keypad and then find the panel is blown when they come with one for example.

TBH it's unlikely to be much use for your application anyway, even if you did get it working. You'd only be able to use contacts which are pretty limited depending on the garage.

If you have the manual I would suggest giving it a read as defaulting instructions are in there. Make sure you follow it correctly as if you do it wrong the panel will not store programming correctly until its complete. You could try guessing some of your own likely codes as it will be one you came up with at some point.

As above will be your smoke detection. With doing work in the house your more likely to get dust in them. Also if it's PP3 batteries in them they're more likely to signal low voltage in cooler weather.

It's possible but we do not provide defaulting instructions here as per our guidelines. You would also need to know how to program all the equipment back correctly, I understand this is the DIY section but is that something you know how to do? If not you have a panel with no detection connected. Powermax model is budget one way signalling system and obsolete now, so really you look to upgrade especially if you need to alter the system.

Oh cool, enough spare cores for a security light then...

Where do you buy your 5 core cable from...? Looking to save on all those bell runs. ?

Cancelling the strobe with the bell would be the norm now as above. Consider a house in your street with it's strobe flashing for a week or so, chances of it attracting attention of thieves is much higher and they have a bit of knowledge to the status of the system.

It's likely a Pre-2K model (Red LED) so manuals you are finding online would be wrong. If you have no service history of the system then it's 22 years old and done a turn, pretty sensible to upgrade. Equally it could be something an installer can give a check over, service and you get a bit longer out of it. If it's only one sensor it could be faulty or the LED switched off. If your not confident it getting it straight consider having an engineer look at it. If all the wiring is fine then I'd expect you would only need the electronic bits replacing so minimal mess, take no longer than a day.

For your DIY solution this would be possible when everything is controlled from a control panel but I wouldn't want to be trusting one way wireless doorbells or the like with this. My first thought would be using site PA system or class change to get messages out. Clearly a bespoke system like in the link above is a much better solution all round. Was thinking the same, very yellow.

C&G 1853 would be the current qualification into the industry. Being a spark you may find other short courses being more suitable like ones from Tavcom. Much of the practical side of the job you learn best as an apprentice within the industry.

Most PIR's will work with most systems when it comes to wired, wireless you would be stuck to the same manufacturer as the panel. For PIR's I'd look for minimum of "quads" or if required "dual-tech" and models with sealed optics so your Optex, Bosch as some examples. I don't care much for "smart" apps myself but take note of my initial post, if you want to guarantee your alarm gets a message to you, polled signalling via monitoring station would be required and you'd need an installer to do this. Maybe take a look at some older DIY threads, before taking on the project consider it may take you weeks and months of messing about whereas an installer could have it done in a day.

Every installer has there preferred manufacturers for a number of reasons. Most models would be fine with 6 core all round and will have some "smart" options. Some manufacturers these smart options are subscription via an installer only. Bells only would be no problem. Worth replacing your bellbox and testing the cabling while your at it.

It's like an ebay revolving door round here lately hence our posts. We say get rid because it can't do what they want, it finds it's way onto ebay. Someone else thinks they are getting a bargain and come ask how to make it work. Not saying that this new ADT Visonic alarm that cost pennies was from ebay but still they are only worth something as a operational system. Resale they are closed frequency trapped to ADT only parts and firmware and not much use.

You asked your questions and got reasonable answers to both topics from trade members ... for free. Just because you didn't get the answers you wanted doesn't give you the right to get all "gooby". Here ... I'll even help out some more because I'm nice and provide a link to one of the threads I said you would find on your topic of ADT Visonic.

Put it in the bin (with the NVR and stop buying tat from ebay). If you want to know why we say that our search function will bring up dozens of threads on the topic. We don't provide defaulting or engineering manuals here as per our guidelines.

They are not a manufacturer, they have to pay the wages of their tech staff somehow.

Maybe it would be more helpful if you explained your application for this alarm. Auto arm and disarm is not an ideal arming method and as above wouldn't be used for police calling.

Blown fuse, no power? LED switched off? Digital multimeter is your friend.

Factory reset was only suggested for you to access the installers menu. It's unlikely to help and your going to need to reprogram the whole system to get it working if you do that anyway.

It just seems like the system needed to be reset with the user code and then reset. It seems like the panel is driving the strobe so you need to find out why, I would start with putting everything back together and arming and disarming.

I see no issue in replacing a transformer especially on more higher end panels but this is an Accenta after all, not a "£100 panel". If they are available new you need to consider the cost of a whole basic panel like that. It's a linear transformer which would very rarely have an issue unless it's been overloaded or had a surge. Questions should be asked of the rest of the system for this reason, I agree. As for competent I would be thinking about ability to not electrocute yourself and others or start a fire, for example. Elmdene reckon they have got to the bottom of it... I suppose time will tell. Could pay for themselves in elecy in the long run. I didn't rate the idea initially SMPS are noisy and have discrete components to fail, but energy efficiency is the way it's going.

It's not something I would expect people in the trade to be searching youtube for, also consider most would replace the whole panel too. I would imagine the only suitable transformer would be from another panel of the same type. The model is a rebranded "Accenta" if that helps your search any.