sixwheeledbeast

From the images it will be as loud as an onboard panel speaker.

Custom Outputs if you have to do it this way. This also depends what type of sounders your fitting as to how you would program the panel.

Certainly had a lot more weight in them back then.

Yep, they are parallel but as above. It's like having two shunt resistors is the best way of describing it, one over the contact and one in series with it. Later ones I have looked at switched to having resistor modules instead of resistors, I guess to stop the above shorting of one of the shunt resistors. Also if that was the case standard 4K7/4K7, would work backwards so active when secure for example.

Your unlikely to incur £150 of 0844 calls, unless it's sending test calls daily.

It may work but I wouldn't recommend it. Leaving Guardall values at a device will mean the resistance is 4100 ohm secure and 8200 ohm active, this does not allow for any tolerance of the device or cabling either. 4K7/4K7 values should be 4700 ohm secure and 9400 ohm active, as you can see your starting to push the thresholds and could have issues. These issues would be secure value being low enough to trigger a tamper or the active value being too low and a potential FTO. The point of having the values spaced apart is to allow for a bit of tolerance, so I wouldn't abuse them. On the topic, I agree with above, worked on a couple of PX500's it'll have POTD if Chubb and not to be taken on lightly as they are a bit different to other kit.

Both

I don't know the panel but if the SIM PIN is set Disabled there will be no PIN, so I don't know why the PIN code menu would be enabled.

Ding For FWIW I prefer the LAN option.

Company offer "free maintenance contracts", I can't believe maintenance is free you'll have to pay for it one way or another hence the tie in.

Silent part set would be the norm

I don't think I could trust push fit, especially on a supply or rising main.

What was the issue in the end then?

But it wasn't funny... I do like my AMD stuff, I think it's a good move, an affordable architecture with ECC compatibility, low power, and decent single and multi thread performance. Not worried that I can't buy a R7 mobo right now, my Zambezi Bulldozer's working fine at the moment, I took a powermax off the wall with it this week.

I generally try not to break them in the first place.

Mind reading and remote diagnosis is part of my engineering skill, yes.

For security reasons we cannot disclose factory reset or engineers codes for systems. It wouldn't be very secure if anyone could poke about in your alarm system. If the sensor is programmed omittable you can arm the system omitting the one sensor each time for now as an option. If it's wireless it may just need a service and some batteries, especially if it's been longer than 12 months since an inspection.

Well you have the wiring diagram, looks pretty simple. Done this with other makes of bells before no problem. Is the bell going into hold off mode, look at the Ody LED's when your opening/closing the tamper. Measure the resistance of the tamper loop with lid in different states so you can see what the reading are at the panel. You may have to adjust your resistances to accommodate the bell. I wouldn't have thought it was a ground issue as I would assume they are at the same potential via the ribbon lead?

Doors and windows with either shock or opening protection like contacts.

I have had good results from Bosch Blu Line Pet but would always say perimeter is advised.

Bumping a 5 year old thread... I would say it's worth doing these tests again to see if they have changed.

Sterling 10, powered down like that is best for all.

Agreed but most are not bothered. As for reusing old DC's possible but better with a new one and the later firmware.

If that's how the sensors are wired they are not wired correctly for EOL We can't see the labels on the terminals or the DIP switches to see if there set right either. All zones need to be Double Pole/EOL. I assume your using an Elite 24? You need pair for power and one other pair across the Alarm and Tamper, look in the detector manual for guidance.

I can think of two notable jobs like this, both related to a fault on the tank in the loft. One leaked into the master bedroom onto the bed, the bed got so heavy it ended up in the front room. The other less damage but a good foot of water in the hall, neighbours spotted it leaking out the front door. Both where away on holiday water had been running for days. Also seen where a rat had chewed through a blue plastic main in the cavity where it entered the property, that made a mess.