sixwheeledbeast

Trigger pins work on logic level. So say a negative or positive, removed or applied to the pin. It's this boolean logic that triggers the equipment. So if your dialler is triggering over and over it's most likely being held in the inverse state. In bashing terms, invert the panel output or invert the trigger logic. Also note that dialler maybe dialling over and over because you are not acknowledging the call. I would assume the thing came with a manual, have a cuppa and read over it carefully.

Well having the device that starts the timer omitted, would mean you have no idea if the system is armed until you set it off. The manual will be pitched for engineers reference so things like that wouldn't be covered.

The security industry is very reactive anyway. I wouldn't say that needed explaining. It would be standard practice to have a 3 months trial period. I assume trial days are more like a pre-screening?

Second Entry Timer or Bell Delay? You wouldn't normally program the final door as omittable. If you leave the alarm sounding does bells kick in after a minute or so?

It's the cheapest?

Dare I say Paxton?

63. Normally default internals only.

Yep you will likely need someone out to do that. You can remove the line from the system but it may throw line fault errors. Just because you have cancelled the monitoring it will not stop it dialling out, the messages to the ARC will just be ignored.

From the images it will be as loud as an onboard panel speaker.

Custom Outputs if you have to do it this way. This also depends what type of sounders your fitting as to how you would program the panel.

Certainly had a lot more weight in them back then.

Yep, they are parallel but as above. It's like having two shunt resistors is the best way of describing it, one over the contact and one in series with it. Later ones I have looked at switched to having resistor modules instead of resistors, I guess to stop the above shorting of one of the shunt resistors. Also if that was the case standard 4K7/4K7, would work backwards so active when secure for example.

Your unlikely to incur £150 of 0844 calls, unless it's sending test calls daily.

It may work but I wouldn't recommend it. Leaving Guardall values at a device will mean the resistance is 4100 ohm secure and 8200 ohm active, this does not allow for any tolerance of the device or cabling either. 4K7/4K7 values should be 4700 ohm secure and 9400 ohm active, as you can see your starting to push the thresholds and could have issues. These issues would be secure value being low enough to trigger a tamper or the active value being too low and a potential FTO. The point of having the values spaced apart is to allow for a bit of tolerance, so I wouldn't abuse them. On the topic, I agree with above, worked on a couple of PX500's it'll have POTD if Chubb and not to be taken on lightly as they are a bit different to other kit.

Both

I don't know the panel but if the SIM PIN is set Disabled there will be no PIN, so I don't know why the PIN code menu would be enabled.

Ding For FWIW I prefer the LAN option.

Company offer "free maintenance contracts", I can't believe maintenance is free you'll have to pay for it one way or another hence the tie in.

Silent part set would be the norm

I don't think I could trust push fit, especially on a supply or rising main.

What was the issue in the end then?

But it wasn't funny... I do like my AMD stuff, I think it's a good move, an affordable architecture with ECC compatibility, low power, and decent single and multi thread performance. Not worried that I can't buy a R7 mobo right now, my Zambezi Bulldozer's working fine at the moment, I took a powermax off the wall with it this week.

I generally try not to break them in the first place.

Mind reading and remote diagnosis is part of my engineering skill, yes.

For security reasons we cannot disclose factory reset or engineers codes for systems. It wouldn't be very secure if anyone could poke about in your alarm system. If the sensor is programmed omittable you can arm the system omitting the one sensor each time for now as an option. If it's wireless it may just need a service and some batteries, especially if it's been longer than 12 months since an inspection.